Problem with a Vortex scope

cahunter805

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My set up? Looks like low base's with low rings. Base's came on the rifle and rings I had laying around.
I think he’s asking what brand bases and brand rifle? I’m sure someone has something that may work and could easily mail them to you.
 

Jbaldwin40

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I wondered about the tape degrading. But till I can get to town and get new rings this will have to do. I though about using an aluminum can to make shims but couldn't think of how to cut it right.
Seems like the tape could be affected by temperature changes. I would definitely get higher rings and the lap them if you are able to true them up.
 

ImBillT

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You clearly have internet access. You could probably have new rings on your doorstep in 3-4 days.

Electrical tape is not likely a good bet.

Soda cam shims can be cut with scissors.

Shim kits are super cheap. I leave one in my range box.
 
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cahunter805

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You clearly have internet access. You could probably have new rings on your doorstep 3-4 days.

Electrical tape is not likely a good get.

Soda cam shims can be cut with scissors.

Shim kits are super cheap. I leave one in my range box.
Just curious what do you use the shim kit for?
 

ImBillT

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Just curious what do you use the shim kit for?
At the range it would be for putting more MOA into the base than I had anticipated would be needed. If I’m going to shoot a rig to 1000yds, I want my 500-600yd zero to require that I’m dialed near or below the mechanical center of the scope. For hunting rigs, I want my 200yd zero to be right at the mechanical center. Why not just buy a base with more MOA? I’ve hunted with match rifles, as well as shot match rifles in different classes that required me to change scopes(to meet weight limits, power limits, was better off not using a fixed 36X, or swapping to a hunting scope). For those, I used Leupold QR rings. Mauser bases with built in MOA are limited. I’m about to use a two-piece ring/base combo and may choose to shim the rear base if I don’t use Leupold, which does offer one with extra MOA built in.

Before the range, I use them to get the base closer to level if I haven’t settled on the optical setup yet and am not ready to bed the base/bases to the action. Remington changed the rear bridge height at some point and all the new Remington mounts are the for the new rear bridge height. Additionally, before they went to CNC, things just weren’t perfect all the time.
 
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cahunter805

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At the range it would be for putting more MOA into the base than I had anticipated would be needed. If I’m going to shoot a rig to 1000yds, I want my 500-600yd zero to require that I’m dialed near or below the mechanical center of the scope. For hunting rigs, I want my 200yd zero to be right at the mechanical center. Why not just buy a base with more MOA? I’ve hunted with match rifles, as well as shot match rifles in different classes that required me to change scopes(to meet weight limits, power limits, was better off not using a fixed 36X, or swapping to a hunting scope). For those, I used Leupold QR rings. Mauser bases with built in MOA are limited. I’m about to use a two-piece ring/base combo and may choose to shim the rear base if I don’t use Leupold, which does offer one with extra MOA built in.

Before the range, I use them to get the base closer to level if I haven’t settled on the optical setup yet and am not ready to bed the base/bases to the action. Remington changed the rear bridge height at some point and all the new Remington mounts are the for the new rear bridge height. Additionally, before they went to CNC, things just weren’t perfect all the time.
I figured it was to shim the bases but shimming the base for more MOA isn’t the proper way. It puts the base screws as improper angles but it does work most the time.
 

ImBillT

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I figured it was to shim the bases but shimming the base for more MOA isn’t the proper way. It puts the base screws as improper angles but it does work most the time.
It’s a VERY minimal amount of cant. I haven’t found it to be a problem. I’m not saying it’s the perfect way to do things, but it works fine and depending on the chosen setup, it may be the most practical thing to do.

My general preference is to use a base with plenty elevation built in, and then use windage adjustable rings, and/or Burris Signature off-set inserts.
 
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Don Fischer

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I figured it was to shim the bases but shimming the base for more MOA isn’t the proper way. It puts the base screws as improper angles but it does work most the time.
Where did that come from? I shimmed the base's frona and back the same as three strip of tape can shim and completely under the base's. The plan was not to get elevation but to get the scope off the rifle where it was just touching. Trying to keep the front and rear sight level is why front and read were done the same! That would put zero pressure on the base screws if they were right to begin with!
 

cahunter805

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Where did that come from? I shimmed the base's frona and back the same as three strip of tape can shim and completely under the base's. The plan was not to get elevation but to get the scope off the rifle where it was just touching. Trying to keep the front and rear sight level is why front and read were done the same! That would put zero pressure on the base screws if they were right to begin with!
That was in response to BillT post. Not your post.
 
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