Pole barn vs Stick Frame

802flyfish

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SW Montana
Looking to add a pole barn or a stick frame building to our property in SW MT. We want to encompass storage and a small mother in law suit. Some where in the range of 48x72”.

We were originally set on MQS or a local pole barn builder. However, I’m starting to wonder if we should look at stick framing at this point. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Trying to keep total build under 300k.

This was a recent quote from a local pole barn builder on a slab.
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I’ve been out of the game for 15 years now, but that looks like a pretty fair price for a pole barn.
I’m partial to them, versus stick, but not strong enough to be talk you into or out of one
 
Just remember if you put wood under the ground it is a temporary building... might outlive you but it is still going to fail. concrete to top of slab is immeasurably better then either stick or pole from post bases, pilasters, wall top ... many ways to skin that cat. Just did (still finishing the interior) a 40x80x16 with 12' overhang on one 80 wall. Total footprint 52x80x16 concrete floor and an apartment (12x34). Double wall barn with insulation enclosing the 12x34x8' apt. and should be right at $125-130K finished. This is from dirt to done #. This number includes a LOT of sweat equity and marital discord (How many little marks is 1/4"???) Moderate to nice finishes but no exotic or bottom of the barrel finishes.

Mine was a pole barn off of concrete pilasters to T.O.S. 6x6 green posts set in Simpson PB 29 GA steel shell
 
I went with stick built on footings and 2' stem walls, with a 12' and a 16' shed roof on the sides. After a lot of thought back and forth, I liked the idea of not ever having to worry about post and ground contact, as well as, ease of interior framing and standard insulating etc.
I have seen some really cool builds in both styles though!
 
I dont think pole barns are built with buried timbers anymore. At least not around here. It's all concrete piers with Simpson or duraset ties.
 
I went with stick built on footings and 2' stem walls, with a 12' and a 16' shed roof on the sides. After a lot of thought back and forth, I liked the idea of not ever having to worry about post and ground contact, as well as, ease of interior framing and standard insulating etc.
I have seen some really cool builds in both styles though!
This is how I will do my shed.
 
Appreciate the info.

This is from MQS. In comparison to the estimate I listed above. Is there a particular advantage over one or the other?



Free Standing Building installed on your level site
48' width x 60' length x 16' inside height
Roof System: 4' o/c scissor trusses Pitch: 4/12 Loading: 60-5-5 standard
Walls: 8' o/c TR laminated load-bearing columns with uplift protection
Siding: 29 gauge steel (Undecided Color)
Trim Color (Undecided Color)
Siding: 216 lineal ft 3' Wainscoting (Undecided Color)
Roofing Type: 29 Gauge Painted Steel (Undecided Color)
Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 2-eaves & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia
Insulation/Underlayment: 3262 sqft of Vapor Barrier on Roof
Insulation/Underlayment: 4369 sqft of House Wrap on Sides
2 - 12 X 14 steel-backed ins. (Undecided Color) Overhead Door(s) with 5 lite(s)
1 - 3' X 6'8" Steel 9-lite Entry Door(s)
2 - 3' X 6'8" Steel 9-lite Entry Door(s)
7 - 3X2 Slider Insulated Window(s)
2 - 2' Cupola(s) and a Black weathervane
6 - Y-Bracing on posts
1 - Crew Travel
Delivery to Zone 5

$114,000

Additional available options *:
+ Add Siding: 4369 sqft 7/16 OSB behind 29 gauge steel (Undecided Color) for $7,079.18
+ Add Roofing Type: 7/16 OSB under 29 Gauge Steel (Undecided Color) for $5,073.45
+ Add Liner Panel: 2880 sqft of 29 gauge painted steel Liner Panel on Ceiling for $10,423.30
+ Add Liner Panel: 2800 sqft of 29 gauge painted steel Liner Panel on Sidewall (with 2x4s) for $13,147.68
+ Add 1 - 8 X 8 non-insulated (Undecided Color) Overhead Door(s) with 4 lite(s) and Hi-lift track for $2,816.96
+ Add 60 - 2x6 16" o/c interior wall for $1,979.95
+ Add 1 - R14 Spray Foam insulation 2" sidewalls for $16,688.70
+ Add 1 - R36 Spray Foam Insulation 5" roof for $31,045.95
(optional) Lean-to #1
8 x 66 Open Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12 pitch for $9,143.94
+ Add Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia for $1,779.32 (Lean-to #1)
(optional) Lean-to #2
8 x 56 Ends Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12 pitch for $8,128.29
+ Add Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia for $1,574.80 (Lean-to #2)
(optional) Lean-to #3
8 x 21 Open Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12 pitch for $3,649.56
+ Add Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 1-gable (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia for $654.46 (Lean-to #3)
* - additional travel charges may apply to options
 
Like others have said, there is a reason they are usually referred to as pole BARNS. They definitely serve a good purpose if you’re looking to get a building up fast and possibly a little cheaper, and especially if you plan to finish out the inside with metal...

I am a builder myself and we have done it both ways, but to me a stick frame makes more sense if you’re doing living quarters. If you go post frame, you are essentially framing it twice to finish the inside. Plus insulation, wiring etc. can get more complicated.
FWIW I can vouch for MQS, 2 of my BILs work for them..

As for post rot, I wouldn’t be to worried here in MT, it’s not like some parts of the country where it rains every other day haha!
 
I think pole barns traditionally get a lot of their shear strength from the buried poles, which is why you can build big open hay barns that way. Stick frame gets shear from sheeting (osb or plywood) since you will be sheeting it anyway seems like stick frame would be less redundant.
 
stick framing 12 ft to 16ft tall walls with todays lumber is a bitch ,if your picky ,
i do menards packages, to my specs, and build myself or hire a local contractor to erect if over 12ft walls,

i just finished a 40x60x14, 6ft pole spacing, osb covered under metal, total was 65 percent of quotes from 2 different pole barn builders in sw montana,

good thing about pole barns, easy to get 10 to 12 inches of insulation in outside shell, and the layers of insulation are different directions, horizontal outside, vertical inside, interior is extremely easy to heat and cool, very quiet in interior, spray foam the ceiling and gable ends, pretty tight envelope if you pay attention to a few things,
my experince after a dozen or so builds
 
In Oklahoma, most of the pole barns are direct bury but as was mentioned above, a lot of the sheer strength comes from the buried poles tied into the concrete. Interesting the different ways of building in different parts of the country.
 

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