Yeti GOBOX Collection

New Wall Tent Build, Need/Want Advice

hodges32

New member
Joined
Jul 11, 2013
Messages
9
Location
Pocatello, Idaho
I was fortunate enough to just buy my first real canvas wall tent. It's a 10x12 with 12 oz double fill. I found it new on CL. It's got the stove pipe hole, no windows, a 12" sod cloth, and measures about 5'5" at wall height and 9'6" at peak. I'll be taking it out in two weeks to get some use out of it for a week in the Montana mountains near Flathead Lake. I need to break it in in preparation for handcore camping and hunting. It fit perfectly in the black tote from Costco with the yellow lid, by the way. I was able to post some pics but an authentication code was missing or something it said on others (I think they are too big).

Right now all I have is the canvas itself, the EMT, and some rope, steaks, wooden dowels with sisal rope for guy tie downs, and carpet. It has not been water treated. I was told to use some roof sealant by BlackJack. Elastomeric coating its called. To use it just on the roof so that the tent would stay breathable instead of becoming a moisture trap. I'm considering using just a blue tarp instead and running it out the front to create an awning. Does anyone have any experience using elastomeric coatings on their canvas?

I purchased the angles from an outfit in Caldwell, G&L Welding. They are steel and adjustable and will be here in a couple days. How much will my tent shrink? I have seen numbers online everywhere from 1% to 12%. Should I cut the poles to where it will shrink to or wait and keep cutting as it shrinks? How much will it shrink during a week of camping for the first time?

I also purchased some of the ivy green outdoor carpeting from Lowe's to lay down as a floor for inside the tent as well as the porch. Should I put a tarp under it or will some cheap construction plastic work? Like a 4 mil black?

For now I don't have need for a stove. I do want any information you may have about the best way to organize inside the tent I have two giant cots from Cabelas that are probably 3 feet wide each. Wondering what best gear/inventions you guys use inside the tent to help make it more functionals.

Any other advice would be much appreciated.
 

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I'm no expert and don't even own one but I did lots of research on them. We were going to buy one from davis after renting one last year. We loved it but chose a big horn 3 from cabelas instead. We paid $550 for it and considering we might use it every other year it fit the bill. Davis recommends stretching them back out every so often and not cutting you poles all the time. Check their web page the instructions may be on there. I would also talk to them about water proofing. You will want to run a tarp any way to cut down on the uv exposure. That is what kills the cavas. I ran into a guy last year using his 25 year old davis. He had an old camo tarp over it. If you seal the top too well it will probably condensate like crazy. You could make a floor and fly out of tyvek pretty easy. Get some gromets and make the fly. That stuff is tough, and light. As for cotts we got the regular alaskan guide cotts. They are 32" wide. The disco bunks from cabelas would give you more space as well. I'm sure you will get lots of good advice from guy with more experience than me.
 
I would probably see if a local canvas guy could put in a window or two. Those tents get pretty warm when the sun is blazing. A little cross breeze will be nice.
 
I have been researching the canvas tents for the last 2 years in hopes of one day being able to afford one. I agree NOT to cut ANY portion of the canvas or the poles, stretch it out if ever needed. From the reading I have done the shrinkage comes from improper set up.
You might also want to take a look at the cot offered at Davis Tent. I have one and it has been the best I have ever used. It goes together very easily and is comfortable. The only draw back is the weight, but you wont be backpacking it in.
 
I use the product okon W2 for water repellent on my canvas tents, its actually for concrete but it proforms better than products made to seal canvas and its much cheaper. we use rubber backed carpets on the ground, they keep the moisture out . I only have to seal the tents every 3 to 4 years. I only treat the roof. It all really depends on how bad the weather is, but I have not had any issues with condensation with this product and we have been under 2 ft of snow on the tents.
 
Angles Arrived this Morning

Thank you for the information so far. I think a window or two and even a screen door on the front would be a great addition for warmer weather camping. I will be cutting the conduit today and will cut it to the size of the tent currently and make sure it is taut when set up to minimize and shrinkage. I was thinking of using a flat table top set up on the totes I will be packing the tent in on with my 48" wide foam pad from Cabelas that I once used in the back of my pickup (it fit perfectly between the wheel wells). A flat piece of plywood one top of the yellow lid totes with the pad may make an easy bed to put away during they day, I'm not sure.

I am going to attach a picture of the angles. They are adjustable and look to be pretty sturdy. I am definitely happy with their quality. What is the best way to set up an awning with them? Obviously I wont be able to tie into the rest of the frame unless I cut holes where the wall meets the rafter. The peak has an outlet hole for the extra 4-way I received. Anyone have any tips or tricks for this?

As always thank you for the input.
 

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Disco cots? Like a bunk cot? That may work well to increase the sleeping capacity of the tent for sure. Hornart where do you get the W2?
 
Disco cots? Like a bunk cot? That may work well to increase the sleeping capacity of the tent for sure. Hornart where do you get the W2?

I usually get the okon W2 at the paint store, I have an extra frame for the awning that sits just above the tent frame,that way it will overlap the tent just alittle.
 
I maybe a bit old school, I wouldn't go with windows, and such in a good canvas wall tent. just holes, flaps and stuff to cause problems. during hot weather we just roll or prop up the bottom of the walls for good ventilation. Never used ground clothes either. If the weathers dry theres no problem, if it's wet and muddy you're going to track in dirt and mud then have to clean a ground cloth where without one you roll your tent and leave the mess there.
 
Going to disagree with the last post...in a tent 10x12 and larger, I'd go with one window on the back wall of the tent.

I also did a ton of research before buying a tent and took up wayyy too much time asking questions of the guys at Davis Tents. They about insisted on a window in a bigger tent.

Glad I took their advice.

I also think that a ground cloth is the only way to go, and I also went with the green outdoor turf looking stuff. Its cheap enough and mine has a rubberized backing. I figured it would only last a few years, but I'm going on 5-6 years with it and its still held up well.

What I do is leave the front 4 feet of my 14x16 without a ground cloth (except for a runner from the door to the turf). I put the cook stove and wood stove in the front 4 feet that is uncovered.

I also dont track around with muddy shoes on the turf...and its pretty darn nice at the end of long day to be able to cruise around the wall tent in socks or a camp slippers. No reason to be muddying up the place.

I cut my EMT to specs provided by Davis and have never had any problems with my tent shrinking at all. Still fits perfectly after several years of use. I also NEVER have tarped my tent either, and I never plan on it. I got the water-proof treated canvas from Davis.

Even if you dont buy a wall-tent from Davis, their website is awesome in explaining a majority of the things to consider about wall tents. They're also very willing to answer any questions via phone.

Lots to know about wall tents...and in my research, not all are created equally.

Good luck.
 
First Assembly

So I was able to use a simple pipe cutter, I think it was actually designed for copper pipe, but it cut the conduit fine and didn't require any grinding when finished. I had to factor in the length that would be lost due the angle pieces. I came pretty close, within a quarter inch all the way around.

Most difficult thing about setting it up was first, figuring out how to put it up and keep the EMT from sliding out of the angles. I may get some kind of screw that can pinch the EMT in making it easier to setup with one person. Take down was easy because obviously it just slipped right out. The second most difficult thing was getting all the adjustable angles set right. The roof needed to be raised and walls brought in slightly and it was difficult to reach even on a stool, I suppose I'll need a ladder or a taller stool of some time to finalize the setup. I think once I get it where I want it I will clamp down with a pair of pliers on the wing nuts. I'll have to work out some sort of labeling system to make setup as quick as possible between the angles and the EMT.

I haven't set it up with the guy ropes yet. I didn't have any steaks ready today. I'm thinking I'll just use a cheap carabiner to clip it to the grommets and wrap around the steak then come back with the dowel tensioners. I am trying to come up with a convenient way to strap the door open. What's the best type of steak to use? I have heard long, large nails work the best. I have some old potato chain, but it's really heavy. What do you guys put the poles in for transport or just lay them in the truck bed?

I like the idea of raising the walls a bit for ventilation. What about in winter conditions? The pack up of the tent doesn't get the tent too wet or dirty to warrant a tarp of some kind for a floor? Also raising the walls means you gotta steak them back down when the weather isn't as pleasant, cheaper than a window though. I liked the windows on the Kodiak tents I checked out, very large.

Great information so far. Davis tent website does have a lot of good information as well. Just learned a better way to fold up the tent from them. I hope storing the tent in a plastic tote keeps the mice out and water out during any travel.

I appreciate the information and tips.
 

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I am sure some will disagree with me but I thought I would throw in my 2 cents.

My first thought is MAKE SURE that the tent is 100% dry before putting it in the tote.

Second I have never waterproofed my tent and never had a drip of water get in...well that i know of. I am told that untreated canvas dries faster than treated???

Third I would set the frame up in the yard. Get a few different colors of spray paint and use it to label the joints for easy setup at night. I am always setting the darn thing up at night for some reason.
 
I will always put the tent away dry. Is there any advantage disadvantage to storing it in a garage? The garage will have pretty severe temperature fluctuations during the year from about 20 degrees to about 100 degrees depending on the time of year. That shouldn't affect the canvas in storage should it? I think I will use some colored duct tape I have to label the poles and angles. I was warned that even the galvanized spray paint on the angles may rub off and turn the inside of the tent black on the corners.

I did realize the EMT is pretty sharp. Not as bad as if it had been cut by a rotary blade, but pretty sharp, I put it together with gloves on.
 
Awning

I'm still trying to figure out the best way to do an awning out the front. Should I just do a single pole and strap the tarp down with guy ropes to the side? Should I frame the awning just like the rest of the tent? Should I floor it like the interior of the tent? Just wondering what has worked best in the past for you guys and what the reasoning is so I can make it work for me as well.

I'm excited to see it all coming together so quickly.
 
Not by any means saying this is right, but it has worked well for me. When I cut my conduit for my frame I ended up with a piece left over that was a little less than 5' long. My tent is 14'x16' and I purchased a 16'x20' tarp to use as a fly. It extends out the front, supported in the middle by the left over conduit and then I have legs that are just a little taller than the side wall of the tent that I use all the way around the tent to keep the fly off the tent. Just cut a hole in it to go around the stove pipe and it works fine.

This tarp also doubles as the tarp that I lay down on the ground and place the tent on top of to fold it up. Helps keep the tent a little cleaner.
 
That sounds like a perfect idea. Thanks. Like I have said, I have never camped in a canvas tent before so I am really winging it all by myself. I appreciate the information.
 

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