jryoung
Well-known member
The stock that comes with an SPS is a piece of crap, especially if you want to shoot at range. I would look for a Bell and Carlson Alaskan II fiberglass stock, or better yet a McMillian (non EDGE).
Just bought a R.U.M 300. looking for ideas..
- Thread starter stevieb79
- Start date
jryoung, I agree the factory stocks aren't real high quality, but for a hunting rifle work alright. I had the tupperware on my RUM for 11 years and the rifle shot sub MOA with boring regularity. After hundreds of rounds it finally cracked at the front action screw and it now wears a B&C Medalist Alaskan Ti. I think it is a fantastic stock for the money. mtmuley
wingman1
New member
Factory stock has too much flex if you put a bipod on it. I'm one step up from a lamen and went with a hogue cnc milled aluminum bed full length stock. My gun shot out of the box about 1". With new stock less than 1/2". Just a reminder...don't forget to break in your new barrel the correct way.
Good luck
stevieb79
New member
I sure did. I picked up a 4-12x40 leupold fire dot scope with the custom dials. So you think just shoot it and see what happens hey?
stevieb79
New member
This may sound like a dumb question. But what is the right way to brake the barrel in?
Bambistew
Well-known member
This has been posted in the past. Not sure if this is what wingman had in mind.
Proper barrel break-in
wingman1
New member
Are you familiar with the shoot clean/scrub.... shoot shoot clean/scrub
Shoot then clean every shot up to ten shots then every five shots then on ten shots ect until you get to around 100 rounds. I think it's something like that. There are a few different techniques out there but the principal is the same. The idea is to smooth out the barrel and not gall it all up for life.
wingman1
New member
Ghostrider
Member
- Joined
- Oct 5, 2012
- Messages
- 66
they shoot the rifle at the factory a few times. So with that being said run 5 rounds through it and clean it out then run 5 more and do the same. Then go kill a big bull with it.
Clean it when you first get it. Find a load that shoots acceptably for your. Clean it again when it quits shooting acceptably. At least that's how I do it as I hate cleaning barrels. My 223AI hasn't been cleaned for over 300rds...
stevieb79
New member
Funny guys... 10,000 comics out of work in the states and still have people trying to be funny...
stevieb79
New member
Well thanks for the info guys.. That is how i brake my guns in, so good to know I'm doing it right. I just though there might be some new way of doing this...
Danny1788
New member
The reason for a different stock is simple, a fiberglass stock with pillars or a bedding block will flex less and when fully bedded you are making a perfect fit from action to stock which means no movement when firing. I shoot barnes ttsx out a my 300wby just becuase it likes that bullet, nothing wrong with the barnes bullets at all. If you are serious about LONG range shooting then you need to select a bullet with a very high ballistic coefficient, 1) higher BC helps with wind drift at longer ranges 2) higher BC bullets carries more energy and velocity further. Any average joe can dial for distants but judging wind drift is the hard part which is why the BC will help with wind drift. Go to JBM ballistics and start playing with different bullets at different speeds to see what kind of energy and velocity you will have at 1000 yards its very interesting. Just becuase you have a lazer speed rifle doesnt mean it will be the best long range rifle ever. Bullet choice for long range can be the biggest factor on how far your rifle is ethnically capable of. A 300 RUM with a 210gr vld hunting berger or 230gr berger hybrid will carry energy further than an Joe can shoot. I have killed antelope and deer with a 6mm 105gr berger vld from 100yards to 600yards and the bullet does exactly what berger claims it to do go in 3 to 4in then transfer all its energy into the vitals of the animal. Some people have said that they have just penciled throw and didnt expand but I have not experienced this. Also handloading is the only way to go if your wanting to shoot long range it opens a door to different bullets, powders, primers etc.
sbhooper
Well-known member
JUST SHOOT IT! Most of the barrel break-in stuff is bs and any barrel builder worth his salt will tell you that. It either shoots or it doesn't.
Just curious as to why you bought that caliber if you are concerned with recoil. Bigger is not necessarily better, especially if you do not handload.
I agree. Just shoot it, don't let it get too hot, clean it every ten rounds or so. Also, if you are sensitive to recoil, the RUM isn't for you. I guess you could put a brake on it, but there are other problems with that option. The big .30's are fun, but most guys should really take a hard look into whether it is right for them or not. mtmuley
stevieb79
New member
I was concerned with it at first. Now that i have put 3 boxes through it... It's not so bad. I'm really starting to love this gun. I am starting to look at hand loading. I'm getting a 2" grouping at 200 yards. Can't seem to get any better
stevieb79
New member
Ok... So i have been sighting this new rifle in. I must say i really like it. It kicks pretty good, but i'm getting used to it. I can't seem to get a better grouping then 2". I'm going to start reloading this week. What is the best stuff to buy off the start?. Also i want a new stock. I'm thinking thats going to help alot. What would you all say is the best stock to buy? Also looking for a good gunsmith. I have been to a few shops up here in Edmonton and i'm not impressed. Anyone know of a good place to get work done? I will ship anyplace thats good..
EODRay
Active member
I have a 7mm RUM from Savage. That thing kicks like a mule. I put a limbsaver on it and it made a consideral difference. The old pad was like a jackhammer and the limbsaver is much better. I would start with that and then decide if you need the muzzlebreak.
