Also since you wrote ‘no hotels’, I just want to add that short of agroturismos that also provide meals, a hotel in town - whether big or small town - is the way to do things IMO. I’ve done it all and will choose a hotel every time now unless there are no other options.
It can’t be emphasized enough how slow things move, especially in Mediterranean countries.
If you are in a hotel, you’ll often be able to eat breakfast and even just get a coffee an hour earlier than otherwise (cooking everything yourself aside) - in some of my favorite towns in Spain, for instance, it’s literally not possible to get a coffee before 9am but at the hotel breakfast, and coffee, opens at 8.
A hotel in town lets you walk everywhere. When you day is done and you are back, you can walk to the square and sit at a cafe with a drink and snack. Dinner time is much later than the US and you may find yourself with a lot of downtime late afternoon/early evening. It’s a real joy - especially in small towns - people watching it’s a real eye-opener and you’ll see a sense of community lacking even in small town USA with every kid in town chasing one another around kicking soccer balls thru the square and every adult not still working socializing. And you don’t have to drive with the note that legal alcohol levels are basically 0 and there is no ‘walk the line’ or ‘say the alphabet’ - it’s basically ‘blow into this’ then your trip is effed if you’ve had a drink.
And, the kicker, is that hotels have become more cost effective than vacation rentals, AirBnB and the like. (often investment properties owned by some Brit). Sure it may seem less expensive upfront, but that’s not taking into account both the fees and the benefit of the often-included breakfast full of delicious local cheeses, fresh bread, cured meats, etc (holy hell do I love euro breakfasts).
The hotels in smaller towns are usually family-run places where you’ll see the same faces every day, faces happy to give you local advice and will go out of your way to, for instance, navigate the utterly ridiculous fishing-license system of the local municipality (that’s entirely in Catalan without even a Spanish option).
Anyway, that’s my 2 cents which O realize you didn’t ask for. As I’ve said, I’ve done it all and a family-run hotel in town cannot be beat IMO.