FL Die and shoulder measuring

markwilks

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Mar 1, 2022
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I’m trying to get my shoulder measurement on my brass to equal what my loaded factory Nosler partitions measure. I’ve been turning the die down and I’m still .003 long. I thought you only had to turn it a bit but it’s like it won’t bump the shoulder back anymore. I’m using a Hornady comparator. Do I need to be where Sammi says or am I ok as long as I’m close to the loaded Nosler ammo?

First time reloading rifle! I also have a drop in Lyman headspace gauge and the empty brass fall in cleanly. Thanks for the help!
 
When you shoot rounds in your gun they will be fire formed to your chamber, then like mtmuley said just bump the shoulder back .003 and you should be fine. I check the first couple to make sure they chamber alright before loading a bunch.
I’m too late for that right know but I can do that next time. I FL sized all my brass but can’t get the shoulder back to what the Nosler factory loads are. I didn’t measure the shoulders of the fires brass first. Will do that next time.
 
Is your expander tight coming back out when sizing? Sometimes if it is too tight it can pull the neck/shoulder back up. Make sure the inside of the necks are clean and deburred. Try using a safe lube in the neck when sizing.
 
Is your expander tight coming back out when sizing? Sometimes if it is too tight it can pull the neck back up. Make sure the inside of the necks are clean and deburred. Try using a safe lube in the neck when sizing.
Thank you. I ordered another die because I had a stuck case today. I think I boogered up my die. Can’t screw in the top screw that holds the decapper very much. What’s a safe lube? I didn’t lube the inside of the neck?
 
Dillon lube, Hornady One Shot, or mica, to name a couple. I personally have never had a stuck case with Dillon's lube, but have with Hornady. Even though I lube in necks I still try to clean out what I can after sizing.
 
So don’t worry about the shoulder measurement?
If you size it more than a few thousandths short of what it comes out of your rifle as, you risk a case head separation. Those can go very badly for the person behind the rifle.

I have never measured. I remove the firing pin and ejector(if it used a spring loaded plunger like a Remington) and close the bolt on a fired case, but I don’t not turn the bolt handle down with any force. Mostly gravity. It shouldn’t close unless you put pressure on the bolt handle. I turn the die a little to size a hair more, and then try again. I continue with the process until gravity, or very slight force closes the bolt about 3/4 of the way, and then I feel resistance from the case. This still requires so little force to close the bolt that you don’t really notice, but is also tight against the case, which increases brass life. By all means it is perfectly fine to size your brass down .002”-.003” and check with a comparator.

If the rifle manufacturer did things properly, and you’re using your comparator properly, then the case should come out within the SAMMI range. Their drawings usually list a minimum chamber and maximum case. That said, I’ve encountered factory rifles that were out of spec. Dies aren’t always perfect either, even if they usually are. It would be rare, but you can absolutely have an unsafe headspace issue by screwing the die down all the way to size, even though you SHOULDN’T. Size the case just enough to close the bolt without much force. Removing the firing pin makes it easier to feel, but isn’t absolutely necessary.
 
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Thank you. I ordered another die because I had a stuck case today. I think I boogered up my die. Can’t screw in the top screw that holds the decapper very much. What’s a safe lube? I didn’t lube the inside of the neck?
Best I’ve found is Imperial Die Wax. Not as convenient as some of the others, but it has treated me very well.
 
This is about as easy a process as there is.

1. Measure fired case and record. Do several.
2. Put case in shell holder, raise into a sizing die that is backed way out. I remove the decapping pin for this.
3. Screw die in till contact.
4. Back off ram and go in 1/4 turn on die.
5. Size and measure.
6. Repeat adjustments until you set the shoulder back .002-.003”.
7. Lock adjusting ring on die.
8. Install decapping pin so it protrudes about 1/8”.
 
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Yet another thread with the Hornady Comparator.
When will it end??? :rolleyes:
So what’s another way to check that measurement. I’m new but seems like you don’t like the comparator. I’m a sponge to learn a better way.
 
This is about as easy a process as there is.

1. Measure fired case and record. Do several.
2. Put case in shell holder, raise into a sizing die that is backed way out.
3. Screw die in till contact.
4. Back off ram and go in 1/4 turn on die.
5. Size and measure.
6. Repeat adjustments until you set the shoulder back .002-.003”.
7. Lock adjusting ring on die.
Thank you. So if my Nosler case is 2.05 and my shoulder is at 2.07 or 2.08 am I good as long as it falls into the Lyman headspace gauge? I’ll be shooting all these and will use your process next time.
 
Thank you. So if my Nosler case is 2.05 and my shoulder is at 2.07 or 2.08 am I good as long as it falls into the Lyman headspace gauge? I’ll be shooting all these and will use your process next time.
Yes, you should be fine. Load up a single and make sure it chambers in your rifle. If it’s good you’ll be GTG for the batch.

A lot of times production ammo is sized such that it will fit in ANY chamber. The process everyone has described is basically just sizing for YOUR chamber.

I do the same process that @JLS wrote, with the exception of I run everything through a decapping die, then tumble, then I size (because I hate running dirty brass through my sizing die.)
 
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