Copper barrel cleaning

3006Sprng

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N.E. Alberta
Probably been discussed a million times, but just want to see what the copper experts know.

Do mono's, in your experience, require different cleaning techniques?

Do mono's require extensive barrel cleaning on an old barrel previously fouled with lead core/gilding metal jackets when switching over to mono's?

Or, are they not as finicky as made to seem? I have always found better grouping in a fouled barrel. On my hunting rifles I will only clean internally at the start of the year.
 
Following this discussion. I too am beginning to explore non lead rifle ammo. Hoping some of the guys with lots of experience will join in.
 
Working on my 3rd barrel conversion from lead to copper, using Barnes Bullets. Best groupings have followed cleaning the barrel completely down to the steel. Replaced barrel on my 25-06, Lilja recommended using Butch's Bore Shine. Found it did an excellent job getting the lead out. Am now using it on all 3 rifles. Do an end of season cleaning on these rifles. Don't do enough shooting these days to justify more than that. Cleaning rifles that I shoot leaded bullets thru I have found the opposite to be true. Best accuracy follows allowing a buildup of lead to remain in the barrel & not cleaning it down to the steel.

Hope this helps...
 
Well it depends. I shoot once a week, anywhere from 20 to 100 rounds a session, 22 hornet up to 375HH and a lot of .22 lr. Always with an accurate 22 along for the day. A mix of Nosler, a few Barnes and some Hammers. Depends on the rifle/application. Nice to be retired.
Most of my rifles have a couple of well developed loads so I spend very little time actually on the bench. What I do know is accuracy started degrading when shooting offhand a few years ago, at 70 I don’t hold as tight as I used to. From the bench it will vary between rifles but anywhere from 50 to 100 rounds before I think I need to clean, depends on the rifle. Except the Hornet. I think she might go 1000 rounds, wonderful little gun.
Regardless I clean regularly. If I’m doing load developement I’ll start with a 2 fouling rounds then fire a five shot group at 100. Then a five shot group at 300. If it’s 1 moa at 300 there is something to work with. If not it’s on to plan B. Out of habit I always start load developement out of a cold clean barrel with two fouling shots. Don’t think I’ve ever gone more than20 rounds before cleaning at the load developement stage.
I love wipe out, it works quick getting the copper out. Carbon is another story and it depends on the rifle. I got a bore scope for my birthday last year, if you have OCD don’t buy one. Using any carbon cleaner you want I’ll guarantee you’ll be getting clean patches before you’re getting all the carbon out.
I’ve been using Isso bore paste with Kroil and a carbon solvent as a carrier to great effect. It takes some time, some thing like 10 strokes add a little isso and bore teck,10 strokes add a little isso and bore tech. Run a couple of patches and done. Been experimenting a lot and I’ve got it down to two passes with the brush with Isso past and solvent for every round fired. The high speed 30 and fast 338 take a little more.
I don’t see much difference in getting the copper out between mono’s, bonded or cup and core bullets out of my hand lapped barrels. Fill the rifle with Wipe out, get my gear policed up, knock out a quick chore for the wife, clean up my range notes and then attack the carbon. Often I’ll have a rifle set up on the cleaning bench while reloading. Scrub for a bit/ resize a box of shells. Scrub for a bit, trim to length, scrub for a bit chamfer the case mouth. When it comes to priming, powder and ball I don’t like distractions.
Time to go feed the horses
 
We find that after the initial cleaning, we find no need to clean any more than a normal
bullet. In fact, Hammer/Barnes bullets seem to copper foul LESS than jacketed bullets.
I don't clean a barrel till the end of the season, or I see some decrease in accuracy.
Remember, copper bullets need a little "jump" to the lands and like to be shot as fast as you feel comfortable with, near max.
PS, you still need to "Foul" the cleaned barrel with a mono copper bullet after the clean out.
 
We find that after the initial cleaning, we find no need to clean any more than a normal
bullet. In fact, Hammer/Barnes bullets seem to copper foul LESS than jacketed bullets.
I don't clean a barrel till the end of the season, or I see some decrease in accuracy.
Remember, copper bullets need a little "jump" to the lands and like to be shot as fast as you feel comfortable with, near max.
PS, you still need to "Foul" the cleaned barrel with a mono copper bullet after the clean out.
Mono bullets are generally lathe turned so can probably use hard copper as compared to gilding metal which is drawn so maybe it needs to be softer. Not sure if the final drawn bullet jacket is harder than the starting gilding metal due to work hardening.
 
I have 1 rifle that I have "converted" from standard cup and core to hammers. I scrubbed with Butch's to bare steel then fouled using Hammers during some basic testing. Another rifle never received that treatment and shoots Hammers just fine. Neither rifle has been cleaned since though round count is probably around 100 shots
 
I found I needed to clean if switching from lead to Barnes or visa versa. If I didn't my accuracy would degrade over the next 20rds or so on some rifles.
I just carried that habitat over to most of my hammer loads. I don't know if it's "needed" with hammers.
 
I've shot limited copper bullets so dont have enough background to say one way or another.

That said, i dont understand why it'd be any different than lead core bullets that use different copper in their jackets. If it's just a matter of a different kind of copper fouling impacting how a new type of copper goes down the barrel?
 
I'm a big fan of the Thorro Clean system...... especially when switching from gilded and/or other bullets that have a harder grade of copper monos (Barnes) to a softer copper (Hammers)
 

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