bullet drop comp scopes
- Thread starter Rooster52
- Start date
Rancho Loco
Well-known member
Vx2 3-9x40 with dots is the shizzle. If I'm not doing dials, that's my go to scope.
Burris FFII is a low price leader. I've got a couple of those on beaters and I can't kill them, neither can my buddy - he smashed one pretty good last year and it's looking for more.
Burris FFII is a low price leader. I've got a couple of those on beaters and I can't kill them, neither can my buddy - he smashed one pretty good last year and it's looking for more.
sbhooper
Well-known member
`I have a Leupold with B&C reticle and Bushnell Elite. They both work very well. I sight them in dead on at 200 yards and then shoot each line at that range. I then go to a ballistics program to figure out where the dead on is for each line/dot. This seems to work perfectly, but you have to know the bc of your bullet and the velocity for it to be exact.
Nikon Buckmasters are good scopes. I have had one on a 6mm for many years and it has been great.
Nikon Buckmasters are good scopes. I have had one on a 6mm for many years and it has been great.
there is a lot more to them than just calculated drop but are very useful. if you know the rough size of your target you can estimate range and also if a second plane scope as many are, they are only accurate for drop at highest power...
C
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Rancho Loco
Well-known member
Which is fine with me. If I'm in the open, the scope is twisted to the right stop. If I'm in the timber, it goes to the left stop, and I'm not doing dots.
Who estimates range when we have rangefinders?
Who estimates range when we have rangefinders?
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Rancho Loco
Well-known member
Practice at range is imperative.
mtmander
Active member
I use a rangefinder when I want to know distance, either for a landmark or a animal
Southwind
New member
I have both and use both (bdc/custom ballistic turret). I have no problem using either, with a bdc you need to match magnification to your load and then practice or confirm the stadia marks. Do not trust published velocities listed on factory ammo.
Laelkhunter
Well-known member
I used to have a Zeiss with the Rapid Z-800, and it got real confusing about what power for "optimum" and etc. If you had it on 13.5 and it should have been on 8, it would not be as precise. I now have a Swarovski Z5 3.5-18 with the BRH, and all the calculations are done with the scope on 18X. It should only be needed for shots past 300, so the scope being on 18X won't be a problem. The Swaro Ballistic Program is used to enter the data (bullet wt, velocity, altitude,etc) but as Southwind stated, you still need to confirm and verify by shooting at various distances. Lots of variables figure in, so you can't expect a generic crosshair pattern to be an exact match with your cartridge, it has to be fine tuned.
I don't have a scope with the ballistic turret, so I can't comment on them.
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sbhooper
Well-known member
I figure my lines at max power, as I believe that you don't need them at a lesser power. If I shoot at a 300-yard animal, then the main crosshair will do anyway with my 7 mag. It can be at whatever power that I want. If it is extended range, where I need the drop comp, then I figure that I will have it on max power anyway.
If you try to figure it based on different powers, it can be confusing when the excitement hits. Just figure each line/dot at max power and be done with it.
If you try to figure it based on different powers, it can be confusing when the excitement hits. Just figure each line/dot at max power and be done with it.
Laelkhunter
Well-known member
Perfectly stated. I could not have said it better (although I tried to).
A-con
New member
I have a Kahles "TDS" and a Leo "B&C".
Both work well.
The best way to use them, (for me) is to sight in at 400 yards, useing the 400 yard drop mark.
Both work well.
The best way to use them, (for me) is to sight in at 400 yards, useing the 400 yard drop mark.
