Caribou Gear Tarp

bullet drop comp scopes

Rooster52

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What is your input on Bullet drop compensating rifle scope ?

I have a few Nikon Buckmaster with BDC. Only own them because they were on a clearance sale.
 
Vx2 3-9x40 with dots is the shizzle. If I'm not doing dials, that's my go to scope.

Burris FFII is a low price leader. I've got a couple of those on beaters and I can't kill them, neither can my buddy - he smashed one pretty good last year and it's looking for more.
 
`I have a Leupold with B&C reticle and Bushnell Elite. They both work very well. I sight them in dead on at 200 yards and then shoot each line at that range. I then go to a ballistics program to figure out where the dead on is for each line/dot. This seems to work perfectly, but you have to know the bc of your bullet and the velocity for it to be exact.

Nikon Buckmasters are good scopes. I have had one on a 6mm for many years and it has been great.
 
there is a lot more to them than just calculated drop but are very useful. if you know the rough size of your target you can estimate range and also if a second plane scope as many are, they are only accurate for drop at highest power...

C
 
Which is fine with me. If I'm in the open, the scope is twisted to the right stop. If I'm in the timber, it goes to the left stop, and I'm not doing dots.

Who estimates range when we have rangefinders?
 
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`I have a Leupold with B&C reticle and Bushnell Elite. They both work very well. I sight them in dead on at 200 yards and then shoot each line at that range. I then go to a ballistics program to figure out where the dead on is for each line/dot. This seems to work perfectly, but you have to know the bc of your bullet and the velocity for it to be exact.

Nikon Buckmasters are good scopes. I have had one on a 6mm for many years and it has been great.

Practice at range is imperative.
 
I like them as much as turning turrets. You just need to remember what magnification that you dialed the gun in was and make sure that is where you are at in the field.
 
I have both and use both (bdc/custom ballistic turret). I have no problem using either, with a bdc you need to match magnification to your load and then practice or confirm the stadia marks. Do not trust published velocities listed on factory ammo.
 
I have both and use both (bdc/custom ballistic turret). I have no problem using either, with a bdc you need to match magnification to your load and then practice or confirm the stadia marks. Do not trust published velocities listed on factory ammo.

I used to have a Zeiss with the Rapid Z-800, and it got real confusing about what power for "optimum" and etc. If you had it on 13.5 and it should have been on 8, it would not be as precise. I now have a Swarovski Z5 3.5-18 with the BRH, and all the calculations are done with the scope on 18X. It should only be needed for shots past 300, so the scope being on 18X won't be a problem. The Swaro Ballistic Program is used to enter the data (bullet wt, velocity, altitude,etc) but as Southwind stated, you still need to confirm and verify by shooting at various distances. Lots of variables figure in, so you can't expect a generic crosshair pattern to be an exact match with your cartridge, it has to be fine tuned.

I don't have a scope with the ballistic turret, so I can't comment on them.
 
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I figure my lines at max power, as I believe that you don't need them at a lesser power. If I shoot at a 300-yard animal, then the main crosshair will do anyway with my 7 mag. It can be at whatever power that I want. If it is extended range, where I need the drop comp, then I figure that I will have it on max power anyway.

If you try to figure it based on different powers, it can be confusing when the excitement hits. Just figure each line/dot at max power and be done with it.
 
I figure my lines at max power, as I believe that you don't need them at a lesser power. If I shoot at a 300-yard animal, then the main crosshair will do anyway with my 7 mag. It can be at whatever power that I want. If it is extended range, where I need the drop comp, then I figure that I will have it on max power anyway.

If you try to figure it based on different powers, it can be confusing when the excitement hits. Just figure each line/dot at max power and be done with it.

Perfectly stated. I could not have said it better (although I tried to).
 
I have a Kahles "TDS" and a Leo "B&C".
Both work well.
The best way to use them, (for me) is to sight in at 400 yards, useing the 400 yard drop mark.
 
I've never used one of the compensating reticles. Too cluttered for me. I use a turret, and don't have to twist it till past 400 yards anyway. I would like to have windage marks however. mtmuley
 

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