Caribou Gear

Best cost effective solution to the current issue with my Savage M110 Long Range Hunter in .300 WSM

WVgoodguy22

Active member
Joined
Mar 29, 2019
Messages
384
Some of you that have been on HuntTalk before Sept of 2019 will recall that I bought a new Savage M110 Long Range Hunter in 300 WSM to accompany my longtime .270 Win. I mostly bought it thinking that I would use it out west for elk and mule deer 🦌 and give me more bullet weight for possibly longer ranges and bigger bodied animals than the whitetail deer 🦌 here in West Virginia.
Well I haven’t been able to get out west since my tag along trip to Idaho in 2019. So I wanted to make it a “killer” and have taken my first two branch antlered bucks with it. One at 25 yards and the other 50. Most places in WV are thick and shots under 75. Anyway I can’t get the supposed adjustable brake to turn off. As you know brakes are loud and with quick close quarters shots I can’t put in hearing protection.
Should I send it back to Savage even though I heard their customer service is horrible? Should I have a gunsmith fix it? Should I ask the gunsmith to cut it off and rethread my barrel for a brake that I can take off while hunting? Or should I sell it and buy a similar priced rifle in .300 WSM like a Tikka T3X Lite or Superlite or a Browning X Bolt Stalker or the Hells Canyon Speed or Long Range or similar option. Even though I prefer left hand, my current 300 WSM is a right hand. I am fine with that.
Any advice would be great.

Forrest
 
Well, here's my opinion. Our mtns here in SC aren't too much different then WV. I hunt them a good bit. I would sell the gun. If you want a gun for the woods in WV I would buy a 45-70, 350 legend, 30-30, or a .308. I personally have a 45-70 and I don't think there's a better woods caliber out there. If you want to buy a gun that's more of a "western" or longer range type gun I would still sell it and buy a the Tikka or Browning. I'm a Tikka guy, but Browning makes fantastic guns too. Another option I would seriously consider would be a Kimber. They make really good guns and they are super light which is really nice. My buddy hunts the mountains a ton here in SC and he absolutely loves his Kimber. If you want a gun that can do both a T3 is a great option. I like a flat nose .308 in that situation for the woods and something like an accubond for out west.

All this is just my opinion from experience. Do as much research as you can and I'm sure you'll be happy with the decision you make. Happy Hunting.
 
Post a pic of the brake. Maybe someone can figure out the issue.

I’ve had good luck with Savage customer service. I had an issue with a shotgun, sent it in, they fixed the issue, and I had it back within 2 weeks.
 
+1 for old school lever for woods whitetail rifle (30-30 is plenty and a joy to shoot from a quick ready position) and then separate long range elk rifle. If you want a single rifle, I would re-barrel to 20" .308Win with threading for suppressor.
 
Savage used to make a brake that had a rotating sleeve so you could very quickly turn the brake on or off. I know it was on the Model 111FAK. If it’s like that and won’t turn then it may be seized somehow.

If it’s not like that then it’s either got thread locker or a stubborn crush washer.
 
Savage used to make a brake that had a rotating sleeve so you could very quickly turn the brake on or off. I know it was on the Model 111FAK. If it’s like that and won’t turn then it may be seized somehow.

If it’s not like that then it’s either got thread locker or a stubborn crush washer.
That’s the brake that’s on my newest version of the M110 Long Range Hunter. I am supposed to be able to turn it on and off. I have done it before a few times but now it’s on all the time. My Dad and I have tried many physical means to turn it but nothing. I will have to try the hot 🥵 water trick mentioned above.
Thank you 🙏🏻
 
If it's an adjustable brake, they probably used threadlocker on the mounting threads. Most of the time you can soak it in boiling water for 10mins and break it loose while it's hot.
If it's high temp threadlocker then it'll need persuading with a propane torch.
Thank you 🙏🏻 I may try that this Sunday when I head out to my Dad’s. That’s where I keep my hunting gear for now.
 
It will come off, they probably just used thread locker. Take it to a smith and have them make a cap for it.
I forgot to mention that it is one of those adjustable ones that I don’t believe spins off. It’s more of a sleeve that turns on and off.
 
That’s the brake that’s on my newest version of the M110 Long Range Hunter. I am supposed to be able to turn it on and off. I have done it before a few times but now it’s on all the time. My Dad and I have tried many physical means to turn it but nothing. I will have to try the hot 🥵 water trick mentioned above.
Thank you 🙏🏻
Wonder if it’s just corroded itself together then. Soak it in Kroil or penetrating oil for a couple days then try to turn it with a strap wrench.

Looks like this, correct?F5C834AF-5F6B-4030-82AD-FBB34C8CBAF2.jpeg
 
Post a pic of the brake. Maybe someone can figure out the issue.

I’ve had good luck with Savage customer service. I had an issue with a shotgun, sent it in, they fixed the issue, and I had it back within 2 weeks.
I would if I was at my Dad’s house 🏡 I have pictures on my phone just not a recent one with a close up of my brake.
I am glad to hear that about your issue and them resolving it quickly. Even though I am sad that I am not going out west in October the firearm season in West Virginia is the Monday before Thanksgiving. I may get in touch with them. Thank you
 
Wonder if it’s just corroded itself together then. Soak it in Kroil or penetrating oil for a couple days then try to turn it with a strap wrench.

Looks like this, correct?View attachment 226335
Yes exactly like that one. I will try that on Sunday. Even though I am not recoil sensitive or shy the brake is nice for working up loads with multiple shots. I have been using factory ammo in the 180-200 grain range and getting good groups at 100. I just don’t have a place to stretch it’s legs yet. So no brake is nice for shorter range shots with factory ammo at targets or animals where I don’t have time for hearing protection.
 
I'd sell it and get something like a 7mm-08 or 260 Rem/6.5 CM. And in case your wondering, both will work out west on elk to boot!
I remember when I made my original posts about what 30 cal that I should get and then what scope I should put on it how against 30 and above Magnum WizBang Stompers you were.
Suggesting nothing higher than a 30-06 or even 308. The 308 would be great bow especially with the crazy ammo shortage. But I see loads of 308 Win on the shelves.
I could load the 150 grain Partitions that I have a whole box of and use them in my .270 Win for that matter.
7mm 08 is high on my list especially if I can get it in a lighter weight mountain 🏔 rifle with a shorter barrel that I could eventually suppress. Like the new Browning X Bolt Hell Canyon SR.
 
+1 for old school lever for woods whitetail rifle (30-30 is plenty and a joy to shoot from a quick ready position) and then separate long range elk rifle. If you want a single rifle, I would re-barrel to 20" .308Win with threading for suppressor.
I agree with you a 30/30 is plenty, but with my Dad and youngest brother have a gun in that cartridge. So I want something larger and different. Like a 45/70 or 44 Mag (snatched up a RCBS die set for $25 before they discontinued them). Plus I can use those in straight wall states like Ohio to the west of me.
Would be a consideration on the rebarrel, but I have quite a few boxes of 300 WSM. Those 150 grain Barnes TTSX that you told me about would be perfect in a 308 Win. Plus with the crazy ammo shortage, one can find plenty of 308.
Just curious what is the minimum for a good quality steel barrel that can fit in a Savage action.
 
Well, here's my opinion. Our mtns here in SC aren't too much different then WV. I hunt them a good bit. I would sell the gun. If you want a gun for the woods in WV I would buy a 45-70, 350 legend, 30-30, or a .308. I personally have a 45-70 and I don't think there's a better woods caliber out there. If you want to buy a gun that's more of a "western" or longer range type gun I would still sell it and buy a the Tikka or Browning. I'm a Tikka guy, but Browning makes fantastic guns too. Another option I would seriously consider would be a Kimber. They make really good guns and they are super light which is really nice. My buddy hunts the mountains a ton here in SC and he absolutely loves his Kimber. If you want a gun that can do both a T3 is a great option. I like a flat nose .308 in that situation for the woods and something like an accubond for out west.

All this is just my opinion from experience. Do as much research as you can and I'm sure you'll be happy with the decision you make. Happy Hunting.
Thank you for sharing your advice and thoughts. The new Ruger Marlin SBL or Trapper in 45/70 is a dream gun of mine. I just love the looks and feel of a lever gun. Plus with Ohio being a straight wall state that would be perfect if one could find one.
I wanted a left handed Tikka in 300 WSM for a long time but when I saw the deal that I got on my rifle I couldn’t pass it up.
Kimbers are nice and light too. I am also thinking about the Savage 110 Ultralight with the Proof Research barrel or the Impulse as a possible replacement if I were to sell it. I was trying to think of what manufacturers even chamber in 300 WSM with a rifle in the $1200 price point or less. Savage, Winchester, Browning, Tikka, Kimber maybe 🤔???
 
Use Promo Code Randy for 20% off OutdoorClass

Forum statistics

Threads
110,805
Messages
1,935,072
Members
34,883
Latest member
clamwc
Back
Top