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Best cost effective solution to the current issue with my Savage M110 Long Range Hunter in .300 WSM

I remember when I made my original posts about what 30 cal that I should get and then what scope I should put on it how against 30 and above Magnum WizBang Stompers you were.
Suggesting nothing higher than a 30-06 or even 308. The 308 would be great bow especially with the crazy ammo shortage. But I see loads of 308 Win on the shelves.
I could load the 150 grain Partitions that I have a whole box of and use them in my .270 Win for that matter.
7mm 08 is high on my list especially if I can get it in a lighter weight mountain 🏔 rifle with a shorter barrel that I could eventually suppress. Like the new Browning X Bolt Hell Canyon SR.
Don't listen to the Magnum Wizbang Stompers. They will drag you down. mtmuley
 
Don't listen to the Magnum Wizbang Stompers. They will drag you down. mtmuley
You’re like Captain Jack Sparrow 🐦 in the fact that you love RUMs so much.
I have never shot one, but my youngest brother tried a 7mm RUM and didn’t like it.
My 5’10” 160 lb 65 year old Dad loves his Winchester M70 in 300 WM that he has had since 1978, it doesn’t have a brake. He doesn’t want to shoot more than 6 shots at anyone time though. One of the reasons why he bought a M70 Featherweight in 243 for his two rifle battery on whitetail deer 🦌
 
That style Savage brake is not threaded on, and it does not easily come off. I had one on my original Savage in 260rem. I had the barrel shortened and threaded for suppressor use, worked out really well for me. I'm a huge fan of 300wsm, one of the best out there for sure.
 
That style Savage brake is not threaded on, and it does not easily come off. I had one on my original Savage in 260rem. I had the barrel shortened and threaded for suppressor use, worked out really well for me. I'm a huge fan of 300wsm, one of the best out there for sure.
What’s the average price for something like that to be done? I am sure that it all depends on the gunsmith and their experience level and what they want to charge.
My youngest brother paid $400 to have his 7mm threaded and a muzzle brake put on.
 
That style Savage brake is not threaded on, and it does not easily come off. I had one on my original Savage in 260rem. I had the barrel shortened and threaded for suppressor use, worked out really well for me. I'm a huge fan of 300wsm, one of the best out there for sure.
They're threaded on. They just suck to get off.
@WVgoodguy22 you trying to remove the whole brake or just turn it "off?"
 
I would be happy to turn it off. Unless I am doing a long shooting session trying to figure out a reload for my rifle the recoil doesn’t bother me.
If that's the case don't bother with the boiling water thing I told you about. Just soak it in solvent/ penetrating oil like what was mentioned before and it should free up.
Pricing- I charge $100 for muzzle threads/crown
And $150 for a shop made brake. That includes timing and profiling. Refinish options/ prices are discussed with customer ahead of time.
 
If that's the case don't bother with the boiling water thing I told you about. Just soak it in solvent/ penetrating oil like what was mentioned before and it should free up.
Pricing- I charge $100 for muzzle threads/crown
And $150 for a shop made brake. That includes timing and profiling. Refinish options/ prices are discussed with customer ahead of time.
Ok 👌 I will get some of that solvent/penetrating oil and do that instead if Savage doesn’t work with me.
That’s rather reasonable. Part of me would rather have a brake that I could take off and cap during hunting season vs that brake that ceased up on me. Thank you 🙏
 
WV,

I'm in PA. and have much the same terrain as you. I lived in Berkeley Springs for a while.

Find a power or gas line. Deer come out to feed on them & will let that WSM stretch it's legs.

While in the woods, i use everything from 250 Savage to 280 Rem.
On the gas lines opportunities range from contact to 1,500+ yards.
And yeah, i hunt public lands.
 
I remember when I made my original posts about what 30 cal that I should get and then what scope I should put on it how against 30 and above Magnum WizBang Stompers you were.
Suggesting nothing higher than a 30-06 or even 308. The 308 would be great bow especially with the crazy ammo shortage. But I see loads of 308 Win on the shelves.
I could load the 150 grain Partitions that I have a whole box of and use them in my .270 Win for that matter.
7mm 08 is high on my list especially if I can get it in a lighter weight mountain 🏔 rifle with a shorter barrel that I could eventually suppress. Like the new Browning X Bolt Hell Canyon SR.
When I was young I got myself a 7mm Rem Mag then loaded a 300 Win Mag for a friend and then a coupole 338 Win Mags. Recoil bothered me a great deal but I stuck with them and found I could overcome the recoil. Well if I went a month or so not shooting them I was right back to zero. That was pretty much it. Over a few years I got rid of them. Then I got an older Rem 700 in 30-06, it recoiled as bad as the mags did and it went down the road. Never had another 30-06 for years. Today my elk rifle is a custom 1903 30-06. I shoot 180gr bullet's in it and recoil is more than any 308 ever was but very manageable. I found over the years that the smaller cartridge's worked just as well as the larger cartridges.And, within the ranges I'm willing to shoot game work very well! I'm sure there are those that really believe they need a mag and if it works for them, it works!

A lot of people coming out west think they need a magnum to handle elk and shoot long range out here. I've lived out here most my life and in my experience they couldn't be more wrong. As a result I never suggest any magnum for anything to any one. Simply not needed!
 
WV,

I'm in PA. and have much the same terrain as you. I lived in Berkeley Springs for a while.

Find a power or gas line. Deer come out to feed on them & will let that WSM stretch it's legs.

While in the woods, i use everything from 250 Savage to 280 Rem.
On the gas lines opportunities range from contact to 1,500+ yards.
And yeah, i hunt public lands.
I remember you being from PA after me posting questions about my brother’s 7mm Rem Mag and his issues. He sadly gave up on it and it just sits there unscoped with a muzzle brake that he paid $400 to have put on.
I would definitely like to stretch its legs. I will have to find such areas. Since I am sadly not going out west once again I thinking about getting my PA license and hunt public land.
 
When I was young I got myself a 7mm Rem Mag then loaded a 300 Win Mag for a friend and then a coupole 338 Win Mags. Recoil bothered me a great deal but I stuck with them and found I could overcome the recoil. Well if I went a month or so not shooting them I was right back to zero. That was pretty much it. Over a few years I got rid of them. Then I got an older Rem 700 in 30-06, it recoiled as bad as the mags did and it went down the road. Never had another 30-06 for years. Today my elk rifle is a custom 1903 30-06. I shoot 180gr bullet's in it and recoil is more than any 308 ever was but very manageable. I found over the years that the smaller cartridge's worked just as well as the larger cartridges.And, within the ranges I'm willing to shoot game work very well! I'm sure there are those that really believe they need a mag and if it works for them, it works!

A lot of people coming out west think they need a magnum to handle elk and shoot long range out here. I've lived out here most my life and in my experience they couldn't be more wrong. As a result I never suggest any magnum for anything to any one. Simply not needed!
I definitely can respect that. No matter how macho some of us try to be, we can still be sensitive to recoil.
My Dad let me use his 300 WM when I was a teenager to take a couple does before buying me that late 90s Savage M110 in 270 Win when I was 15. I can handle an unbraked 300 WM or WSM in the rifles we have, mine is 8.4 lbs naked. I don’t think that I want a long range day with it though.
I backed off going with a RUM, a Weatherby Mag and even the 338 WM.
Even though I have a decent amount of ammo and reloading supplies for my 300 WSM if I could have foreseen this ammo shortage craziness I would have went with a 308, which was in my top 5 and would be better and cheaper to shoot in say a 6.5 lb rifle vs my 300 WSM.
I don’t plan on shooting past 425 yards any way. I would prefer to get into 300 or less. I am not Erik from MuleyFreak or the Gunwerks team, etc…
 
Pretty sure they use a thread lock compound like Rocksett. A little heat should take care of that and it should unthread. I think they are 9/16x28 thread also.
I was about to suggest that. Hair dryer on high might be enough. Or heat gun on low. I think I would stay away from torches. Leave that much heat to professionals.

300 WSM is definitely more gun and recoil than you need for your country. That buck shot at 25 yards must have looked like it was hit with a hand grenade when the hide was peeled off. 30-06 would be plenty for what and where you're hunting now. 45-70 sounds like a canon caliber but they actually do a nice job on deer in close. Small amount of bloodshot on impact and exit. Fast follow-up shooting is HIGHLY overrated. Stick with a bolt and shoot it well. I was able to hit gemsbuck incoming at full gallop twice offhand through the heart at 15 and 12 yards with my bolt action Springfield and 3x9 scope turned down all the way. I called both shots and when PH rolled it over, there the holes were where I said they would be. 165 Partitions made a bit of a mess of the shoulder on second shot but to be expected at that range with 30-06. A magnum would have dismembered the beast. With a smile he said I should give the animals time to fall over. I reminded him that oryx will take on lions and a client almost got hurt by a wounded gemsbuck a few years earlier. This one was WAY too close for my comfort zone. He agreed.
 
If that's the case don't bother with the boiling water thing I told you about. Just soak it in solvent/ penetrating oil like what was mentioned before and it should free up.
Pricing- I charge $100 for muzzle threads/crown
And $150 for a shop made brake. That includes timing and profiling. Refinish options/ prices are discussed with customer ahead of time.
With pricing like that you need to move to MN ;)
 
Sounds like a likely carbon build up issue preventing things from being able to move. Soak it heavily with a good carbon solvent (I like bore tech c4) and see if that helps loosen things up.
 
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