Beginner...please help :)

[coldmorning]

I've been rifle hunting for the past 11 or so years and I'm very good at it. I love it very much, but this year I've been watching a lot of archery hunting on TV. I want to get started in it. Where I hunt is absolutely perfect for archery hunting, and I sure would appreciate the chance to get out in the woods earlier...and the warmer weather, I won't lie!

I'm planning on purchasing a bow soon and whatever equipment I need and then practicing for fall 2013. Do y'all have any suggestions on where to start? What's a good beginner's bow? I don't know what my draw weight, length, etc. would be, but I plan to hit up a shop here that should help me with all that stuff. What about basic equipment/accessories I should need?

ANY help is appreciated!

 

[coldmorning]

I forgot to mention I'll be hunting whitetail deer.

 

[JohnCushman]

My best advice is to go to as many bows shops as possible and shoot as many bows as you can until you find on you like within your price range. The shops will be able to help you find your draw length and set you up with a bow with a comfortable weight and such and just shoot shoot shoot

 

[THWAK1]

I think the best womans bow out there is the Mathews Jewel! I bought one for my gf this past winter and tricked it all out in purple for her. It is a sweet bow (that's saying something because I shoot Bowtech!)! I'll go take a pic of it and post it for you to look at.

http://mathewsinc.com/product/jewel/

Here is her bow:

Mathews Jewel (Black riser with Platinum limbs)
Black Mathews ArrowWeb Quiver
Purple String (ordered it from Mathews)
Purple Dead End String Stops (after market)
Purple Harmonic Dapeners (after market)
Pink Peep Sight (G5 Meta Peep)
Black Monkey Tails
Montana Black Gold Sight (turns Purple in the sun)
QAD Arrow Rest

 

[Gerald Martin]

coldmorning,

First of all welcome to the site! Most of your initial questions will be addressed by your local pro shop. I'd suggest going to them instead of a big box store to get started.

There are so many good bows out there that its a matter of shooting a few until you find one in your price range that you like.
If you are a successful rifle hunter you'll probably have most of the essential tools you need to kill deer with a bow.
I don't know if you hunt from a treestand or not but most bowhunters use them extensively. If you hunt from a stand do NOT neglect to wear a safety harness.

 

[JohnCushman]

I would actuallly suggest a Mission Craze bow. It has alot of draw range adjustability and a wide range of draw weight adjustability and only sells for a couple hundred bucks....it's a good sturdy, solid bow

 

[THWAK1]

I would actuallly suggest a Mission Craze bow. It has alot of draw range adjustability and a wide range of draw weight adjustability and only sells for a couple hundred bucks....it's a good sturdy, solid bow

Good bow also, sister in-law has one. It is a good beginner bow and way cheaper than the Jewel. I got the gf a top-line bow because I primarily bow hunt and I know you get what you pay for...she loves it and shoots it really well. I ordered it with the 60 pound limbs and have it cranked down to 52 right now, as well as a 26" draw length. FAST little bow!

 

[emrah1028]

No experienced with women's bows, but +10 on going to local shops if you have any around you. The Ganders/Cabela's/Bass Pro's staff may be helpful (there's usually one or two people at each that actually know what they hell they're doing), but local shops are top of the list.

Here in MN, we have a local archery-centric outdoor shop and everybody and their mother comes there. They are all bow hunters, run leagues, know factory reps, etc. They know more about the nuances of getting you set up properly from the gate so you're never wondering if it's the equipment or you.... Unfortunately for me, it's never the bow's fault.

Emrah

 

[MN Public Hunter]

+1 for go to a pro shop and don't let anyone tell you want bow to get...everyone is different and has their own opinion on the "best" bow. I would say for a first bow go a bit cheaper so if you decide you don't like it you don't have as much money into it.

 

[coldmorning]

Thanks guys. I plan on going to a good shop here in the area that my friend's fiancé (he's a pro bow hunter/guide out west) recommends. However now my dad gave me his Mathews Solocam Z-Max (circa '97 or '98) and he doesn't have the manual and no one knows the exact specs! So I'll probably have my friend check it out or the shop. As it is now, I can't draw it.

 

[bjtc_brian]

I also would suggest not going to just one shop unless they have a large variety of brands. I thought people were a little nuts when I did this a few years ago, but it really makes a huge difference to shoot and find a bow that feels good and fits correctly. Odds are the shop you like will work on your bow even if you bought it somewhere else.

 

[2rocky]

You might be better off selling the used bow to get you 50 to 75 dollars closer to a new bow that will fit you. I would consider a kit from a mfgr. like Hoyt, Mathews/Mission, Martin, PSE, Bowtech/Diamond to make less of a hassle in choosing components (Stabilizer, Sight, Quiver). a 1997 Compound bow is akin to a 1977 car.

Now I don't know your size or strength, but plenty of 40-50 pound bows have killed Whitetail deer.

The right pro shop will let you take your time and try the bows.

You should probably take pictures so we can critique your form....;-P

 

[whyelkhunt]

I would go with a newer bow, I just upgraded from my 1999 bow and it is a night and day difference.

 

[StrutNut]

I bought a Bowtech Soldier for my son and getting one for my wife. Great little rig for the money. I would look at your budget and honestly, put more money into the accessories then the bow itself. Packaged bows are ok. The Soldier was a package bow. You just end up replacing everything though. I have a 2002 Hoyt Cybertech that I just love. It shoots well and is very quiet. I did major upgrades in components and it was worth it. Rip Cord Code Red, Tight Spot, Blacks Gold Rush with Blind Man for hunting with the kids in the blind. I also added a B-Stinger stabilizer to help keep it steady. Many stabilizers out there are more for noise reduction, not keeping the bow steady. B-Stinger, it keeps it steady! I had bought a lot of cheap sights, the fail when you need them the most so I would spend money on a good site. The Blacks Gold Rush is a very solid site for the money. Whatever you get, get it set for you and shoot! Hit some 3D courses, they are a lot of fun. Get a portable target. You can bring in with you and some very creative training. I shoot out of my stand all the time at it. The best way to practice. I have seldom had shots at 20 yards on flat ground like you see at ranges. Practice uphill, downhill, in stands, blinds, any shot scenario you think you might have. It is a lot of fun and builds your confidence.

 

[JLS]

The Z Max is not a very forgiving bow, it has a short brace height, and the break over on the cam is brutal.

I'd try to find a smoother drawing bow than that one, and one with more brace height.

 

[SDHNTR]

Go to a shop and shoot everything in your price range. Buy the one you like. Only you can make this decision and you should not listen to anyones suggestions until you have shot the bow yourself. Archery is all about personal feel.

 

[texasbucksandbirds]

Go to the local shop and try every bow you can. Once you find one you like...practice, practice, practice.

 

[Deerhunter80]

Ditto on the new bow - current day archery products are very foregiving and you will enjoy bow hunting far more wehn you can shoot a quarter size group at 20 yards probably the first day out. My suggestion would be to practice a ton, shoot at least 5 arrows a day to strengthen those muscles and practice shooting from a seated, kneeling standing and tree stand type position to make sure you are accurate and capable shoud the occasion arise. Also make sure you know your yardages or get a decent range finder that will assist. Most importantly, have fun and keep us posted on your progress!

 

[Deerhunter80]

Oh and at bow distances wind and scent control will be really important!

 

[Z Barebow]

cannot give you specifics on what bow to buy. (My bow is 12 years old and I have no plans on changing!)

But I will give you some pointers/guidance. (I have been shooting for over 30 years and used to teach archery)

Find out if you have a local archery club and contact them. They may have members who can give you guidance. Listen more to the guys who have shot for 10+ years vs the young guys. If anyone tells you buy XXX bow because the rest are crap, ignore them. Most modern bow mfg have decent bows which could work for you.

Visit with a pro shop. A good one will sit down with you and help make recommendations on equipment choice. Keep this in mind, for beginners. You do NOT need the most expensive equipment. (If you are not comfortable with advice, find another shop and get a second opinion) Keep in mind, pro shops will be showcasing bows they have available. (MFG product lines) Pro shop # 2 may represent other mfgs which may have bows which "feel" better.

Things they should check.

Eye dominance- You have been a rifle shooter, but have you ever had your dominance tested? Very simple tests to do this. Since you are a new shooter, I recommend purchasing a bow which matches your eye dominance. (Do NOT use your hand dominance as a reference.)

Draw length- Since you are a new shooter, you will not be able to tell by feel. I would be willing to bet, 70% of archers have an incorrect draw length. Generally too long.

Bow weight- DO NOT GET INTO A MACHO CONTEST! If a draw weight of 40 pounds is comfortable, (This is the min weight to hunt in most states) Over bowing is a common mistake. A bow with adjustability of 40-50 pounds will kill most anything with a hoof in North America. If you cannot shoot accurately and comfortabley, speed/weight are immaterial.

Generally, a hand me down bow will not work for you. A bow matched to you will allow you to shoot more accurately and enjoy shooting.

Look for a bow with a smooth draw. (Does not break over hard). Look for a bow with a higher brace height. As a general rule, higher brace hieght bows are more forgiving. (Essential for a new shooter) (Do not buy something with a 6" brace height or less) Too picky.

Look for a bow with some adjustability. (Draw length and weight). As you shoot and become stronger, your draw length may need to be tweaked as you begin too figure out proper shooting form.

Arrows and release- Not my strong suit in advice. (I am old school and shoot fingers w/aluminum) I suspect a wrist release and some matched carbon arrows. (Arrows are sized based upon your draw length and draw weight) Carbon arrows have a wide operational range.

Don't worry about hunting quiver and broadheads at this time. (Don't allow someone to oversell you). You have plenty of time. (I personally like the Alpine soft quiver)

Plenty of info, and plenty more to learn. Enjoy the flight of the arrow!