NEW SITKA Ambient 75

300 wsm. ?

snake river rufus said:
Why do you need to freeze a knife blade?
Do you slice so fast that the harmonics cause the blade to vibrate wildly? :D


Heck if I know Rufus, maybe so they can charge more?...and no, I don't slice fast enough to disrupt the elemental molecular alignment...unless it's getting dark. :D
 
While cryo-treatment might be helpful with a rifle barrel (in some rare cases) I can't see the reason to do it with a knife blade. It won't make the blade any stronger or cause it to hold an edge better.
 
SNR, actually the Cryo treating can indeed help the edge last longer, just be prepaired for your arm to fall off when you got to resharpen it. I used to work at a manufacturing plant that would recycle the wasted product from bad runs and such and the blades used in the grinder lasted 4 weeks longer after being cryo'd than before.

As for Cryoing a bbl, the main purpose of it is not to get more accuracy, generally you wont see any better results, it is to help your bbl last longer. Some of the ultra-lightweight bbls I have seen some improvement after cryoing as it did make them more rigid. I have not seen any actual tests done to prove the cryoing will make it last longer but it for sure isnt going to hurt either. I have been told you want to make sure your bbl is broke in/lapped before treatment as the cryoing may prolong the break in process. Makes sense to me.

Be careful when picking a Cryo company. I understand the best treatments are them that use a series of both heating and freezing. The process will also very depending on what metal materials are being treated.
 
Cryo treating a barrel will change the harmonics, sometimes that will improve accuracy. It doesn't help the barrel "last longer" or become "more rigid".
 
Most Cryo companies indicate increased durability and wear resistance--improved tensile strength and greater stability. I've seen claims of up to a 300% increase in durability. Changing barrel harmonics is a double edged sword--you could end up with a less accurate rifle. I'll go back to my earlier post and indicated that I've never seen improved accuracy in a hunting rifle. Any benchrest shooters out there may be able to speak to the issue better than I.
 
snake river rufus said:
While cryo-treatment might be helpful with a rifle barrel (in some rare cases) I can't see the reason to do it with a knife blade. It won't make the blade any stronger or cause it to hold an edge better.

SRR, If it's good enough for Ted Williams' head, it's good enough for my knife blade. :D

I have no problem keeping an edge...very sharp.
 
hey got your load for your 300 WSM...........

Reloader 19 @ 70.1
IMR 4831 @ 69.0
Fed 210M primers
WW or Fed Brass
Barnes TSX 168 grain

Outstanding loads...........this is my Alaska load ............the IMR load gives a little higher Vel......accuracy less than MOA on both loads......outstanding!
 
Hill Country

Received my rifle back from Hill Country.....excellent job. Free floated barrel, recrown, pillar bedded, glass bedded action, adjusted trigger to 3#. Very clean job.
Their test fire groups were about .75" with 180 TSX Federal.

I have worked up some loads with Reloader 19 and IMR 4831 powder and Sierra 165 GK, 165 Nosler Part and 168 TSX. I will try to get to the range this next week.
 
B-Killin said:
Just bought a 300 wsm. Any suggestions or comments on the caliber? What is everyones' favorite load?
I recently bought a model 70 win.in 300wsm and feel it is one of the best rounds for medium to large game in North America.However which load you use is an important question.First of all I would recommend the use of Winchester Supreme ammunition exclusively.This can be purchased with Ballistic silvertip,XP3,Accubond,or the new Fail Safe bullets;all in several weights.The 150 grain Ballistic Silvertip is specifically designed for rapid expansion on medium sized game such as whitetailed deer. The XP3,in both 150 and 180 grains is suitable for medium and large game,but
the 180 grain Ballistic silvertip and Accubond and Fail Safe bullets [of any weights] are designed for slower expansion and better penetration.This makes them ideal for large game such as grizzley,elk,or moose;but are not designed for medium sized game.I suggest visiting winchesters website for more information.I hope this information is useful to you. Good luck.
 
winman said:
,the 180 grain Ballistic silvertip and Accubond and Fail Safe bullets [of any weights] are designed for slower expansion and better penetration.This makes them ideal for large game such as grizzley,elk,or moose;but are not designed for medium sized game.
The 180 gr ballistic tip, silver or otherwise, is in no way comparable to the fail safe. If winchester recommends them for grizzly, they are barking up the wrong tree. I personally have had the jacket separate on a #200 or so hog. The core did push on and it did kill, but no way in hell would I risk a grizzly by using this bullet.
Welcome to the forum, winman :D
 
ballistic silvertip

I am not saying the 180 grain Ballistic Silvertip is the best choice for grizzly like the Failsafe.However,a quick visit to Winchester's website will show anyone who can read that it is rated for large dangerous game such as elk and brown bear;but apparently your experience is to be trusted over the experts at winchester.
 
Didn't Winchester thicken the jacket to help prevent premature upset on the 180 gr. ballistic tips?

Welcome to HT winman...SRR knows his stuff...just overlook the surliness, it's usually worth the knowledge he imparts. ;) :D
 
I am not a very experienced hunter and am sure he knows more than me.I was just giving the information that I have obtained through research.Which on paper is 100% accurate.I didn't mean to question his credibility.
 

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