2009 to 2014 F150's

elkmagnet said:
Im pretty sure that dealer was milking you like holstein.
Both wheel bearings failed at the same time? Weird!
Rebuilt entire front end because of a bad ball joint?
Two sets of Ls clutches in less than 100k.
I would bet money they didn't add enough friction modifier.
I think you should be pissed at the dealer.
To me it sounds like you had bad luck with your truck and a shop that was upselling you and doing work that they know will work past your repair warranty but will inevitably fail.
Click to expand...
I did all the work myself, except for the rear diff, as I couldn't justify the money for the diff tools for a one time thing. As for the friction modifier, not a clue at what happened there as I wasn't there when they worked on it.
 
Hello,

I might be a little late to the party here, but I would like to offer my input. I have a 2013 F-150 Supercrew Ecoboost. It lives a sheltered easy life and has spent 98% of it's life on interstate. I have exceeded the maintenance schedule and run premium full synthetic products in it. It has a 105,000 miles and has been an absolute piece of junk. It is the reason I will likely never buy another Ford product. I am the only owner and it had a sticker of $47K

Here is the list of issues both under warranty and out of my pocket:
- AC was not fully charged, first few thousand miles - Ford covered
- Rotors warped so bad at 5k miles that they had to be resurfaced - Ford covered
- Resurfaced rotors worse than when I took them in, so Ford replaced rotors, but wouldn't put new pads on - Ford covered (sort of)
- Rear window defrost went out at 10k, took 5 days to replace - Ford covered
- Factory brakes so bad at 30k I replaced myself with aftermarket rotors and pads (still going strong) - $800 out of pocket (OOP)
- Factory windshield broke around 50k for no reason, it just cracked sitting in my driveway - $350 OOP
- Drivers side window regulator broke around 60k - $400 OOP
- Back-up camera quit around 60k - $800 OOP
- Broken tie rod discovered at 60k - $300 OOP
- Rear defrost quit again around 70k - Ford will NOT cover and quoted $800 to fix, have decided not to fix it
- At 65k the timing chain started to rattle - Ford will NOT cover, $3,300 OOP
- Fuel sending unit went out at 100k - including towing bill $400 OOP
- Horn quit at 100k, haven't fixed yet
- Backup sensors currently out and have decided not to fix them
- I've had it professionally aligned three times and it still won't wear AT tires correctly. Yes I monitor poundage, rotate at 5K and they still won't wear right. - Stereo controls stopped working and sporadically turn up volume or change the station without touching them - not fixing
- Passenger side turbo is looking coolant at fitting. Fitting is $4, repair is $900, currently not fixing unless it gets worse
 
not late, just gives more credence to go with the 5.0 when the time comes for me, unless chevy's 2014's+(i think that is when they started) crewcab 6.5' are decent; i honestly wouldnt be able to get a vehicle unless it has atleast 85k miles on it
 
I think the 5.0 is a better engine setup. They don’t have the advertised power or MPG that the 3.5s do, but I think the reliability of the 5.0 more than makes up for it. Also if you tow at all, the 5.0s make better MPG while towing. They don’t have the run away power the 3.5s do but get better mileage under load. My 3.5 only gets 10-11MPG on the interstate with an UNLOADED 18ft open tandem. Loaded with much of anything and it falls in the single digits.
 
shannerdrake said:
Hello,

I might be a little late to the party here, but I would like to offer my input. I have a 2013 F-150 Supercrew Ecoboost. It lives a sheltered easy life and has spent 98% of it's life on interstate. I have exceeded the maintenance schedule and run premium full synthetic products in it. It has a 105,000 miles and has been an absolute piece of junk. It is the reason I will likely never buy another Ford product. I am the only owner and it had a sticker of $47K

Here is the list of issues both under warranty and out of my pocket:
- AC was not fully charged, first few thousand miles - Ford covered
- Rotors warped so bad at 5k miles that they had to be resurfaced - Ford covered
- Resurfaced rotors worse than when I took them in, so Ford replaced rotors, but wouldn't put new pads on - Ford covered (sort of)
- Rear window defrost went out at 10k, took 5 days to replace - Ford covered
- Factory brakes so bad at 30k I replaced myself with aftermarket rotors and pads (still going strong) - $800 out of pocket (OOP)
- Factory windshield broke around 50k for no reason, it just cracked sitting in my driveway - $350 OOP
- Drivers side window regulator broke around 60k - $400 OOP
- Back-up camera quit around 60k - $800 OOP
- Broken tie rod discovered at 60k - $300 OOP
- Rear defrost quit again around 70k - Ford will NOT cover and quoted $800 to fix, have decided not to fix it
- At 65k the timing chain started to rattle - Ford will NOT cover, $3,300 OOP
- Fuel sending unit went out at 100k - including towing bill $400 OOP
- Horn quit at 100k, haven't fixed yet
- Backup sensors currently out and have decided not to fix them
- I've had it professionally aligned three times and it still won't wear AT tires correctly. Yes I monitor poundage, rotate at 5K and they still won't wear right. - Stereo controls stopped working and sporadically turn up volume or change the station without touching them - not fixing
- Passenger side turbo is looking coolant at fitting. Fitting is $4, repair is $900, currently not fixing unless it gets worse
Click to expand...
My 2011 was the same way with the front alignment, had it at the alignment shop four times, once after I rebuilt the front end, but the other times were from uneven wear of the tires.
 
shannerdrake said:
I think the 5.0 is a better engine setup. They don’t have the advertised power or MPG that the 3.5s do, but I think the reliability of the 5.0 more than makes up for it. Also if you tow at all, the 5.0s make better MPG while towing. They don’t have the run away power the 3.5s do but get better mileage under load. My 3.5 only gets 10-11MPG on the interstate with an UNLOADED 18ft open tandem. Loaded with much of anything and it falls in the single digits.
Click to expand...
thats good to know, i'll be towing a 8x16 5,000lb fish house for camping and fishing trips along and a 16.5' boat but thats light enough; my 2000 5.4 pulling the ice house gets a solid 8-9.5mpgs staying under 60mpho_O
 
shannerdrake said:
I think the 5.0 is a better engine setup. They don’t have the advertised power or MPG that the 3.5s do, but I think the reliability of the 5.0 more than makes up for it. Also if you tow at all, the 5.0s make better MPG while towing. They don’t have the run away power the 3.5s do but get better mileage under load. My 3.5 only gets 10-11MPG on the interstate with an UNLOADED 18ft open tandem. Loaded with much of anything and it falls in the single digits.
Click to expand...


I agree that the 5.0 engine is likely more reliable, but looking at your list of issues you had, most of them are truck issues not based on what engine it had. It really bums me out because I have been leaning towards a late model f150 with a 5.0.
 
That's a fair statement, but adding it up, approximately $4200 of the $8000 of out of pocket repairs it has had or needs to have are Ecoboost specific. Further, I can live with a busted backup camera, but I can't live with a busted timing chain.

I need to just get rid of this thing because every time I recap my issues, it just frustrates me. No 6 year old truck with 100k miles should need $8000 of out of pocket repairs. I don't know why we put up with this and do this to ourselves. F-150s are on no "most reliable" lists out there, but every year we the consumers keep making them the best selling vehicle (car or truck).
 
shannerdrake said:
That's a fair statement, but adding it up, approximately $4200 of the $8000 of out of pocket repairs it has had or needs to have are Ecoboost specific. Further, I can live with a busted backup camera, but I can't live with a busted timing chain.

I need to just get rid of this thing because every time I recap my issues, it just frustrates me. No 6 year old truck with 100k miles should need $8000 of out of pocket repairs. I don't know why we put up with this and do this to ourselves. F-150s are on no "most reliable" lists out there, but every year we the consumers keep making them the best selling vehicle (car or truck).
Click to expand...
I've always been a Chevy guy but I've been open to other brands for my next truck. (The afm issues in the newer Chevy's scare me.) I've always joked that the f150 is the best selling truck because hey have to be replaced more often.
 
These guys with a laundry list of problem after problem confuse me. If >5 things break on my truck that thing is getting kicked out of the family.

I have a 2013 F150 with the 5.0. Not a thing wrong with it. 68k miles. Hunting rig that has taken a beating on the back roads and in the mountains of Idaho. Have a set of Kumho Road Ventures on it at about 35k wearing beautifully.
 
IdahoPotato said:
These guys with a laundry list of problem after problem confuse me. If >5 things break on my truck that thing is getting kicked out of the family.

I have a 2013 F150 with the 5.0. Not a thing wrong with it. 68k miles. Hunting rig that has taken a beating on the back roads and in the mountains of Idaho. Have a set of Kumho Road Ventures on it at about 35k wearing beautifully.
Click to expand...
I've been torturing myself by looking more and more; I have decided 5.0 and I want the locking differential option
I like those road ventures; i ruined mine though after driving through 2 rotations and finding out my upper control arms were shot causing them to wear unevenly on the inside and outside edges
 
IdahoPotato said:
These guys with a laundry list of problem after problem confuse me. If >5 things break on my truck that thing is getting kicked out of the family.

I have a 2013 F150 with the 5.0. Not a thing wrong with it. 68k miles. Hunting rig that has taken a beating on the back roads and in the mountains of Idaho. Have a set of Kumho Road Ventures on it at about 35k wearing beautifully.
Click to expand...

I see your point, but to me it turns into a math problem. Take my truck for example, it's worth about $19,000. Assuming I could get the $19k out of it and then find a very comparable truck for $19k, I'm still out $1,200 in taxes alone. You can fix a lot of annoying things for $1,200. Also, hard telling what you are going to get if you buy a similar truck. I know that mine has been well maintained and although it has problems, I know the problems well. Who knows about the "new to me" truck that I'd be buying.

The other option is trading it in on something else, well then the problem is worse, because you are taking a bath on the trade-in and you still don't know what you are getting on the other end. Plus I know few guys who trade in a $19,000 truck on a $19,000 truck so most likely you are trading it in on a more expensive truck so now you are either using your savings or taking out a loan.

In short, most replacement options involve/require spending money and in most cases the money guys spend to avoid fixing their current rig usually greatly exceeds any current and future repair costs they would incur on their current rig.
 
I had a 2012 ecoboost that I least. Turned it back in with 3200 miles, had zero problems. Bought a 2014 ecoboost 72000 miles and so far running great. I had to replace the back up camera that's it. But I bought one off amazon for like 220.00, put it in myself. 10 minute fix. YouTube has great video on how to replace one. There are 6 or 7 people at my job that have ecoboost and so far everyone seams to like them, no problems that I have heard of. I do know one guy that bought a 14 had nothing but major problems with it, finally traded it off. I read truck forums and hear stories all the time about how there dodge keeps breaking down or chevy or toyota and ford. They all make lemons sooner or later. It shouldn't happen but it does, and it's like Russia Roulette. You never know who's going get it. It's sad but true.
 
shannerdrake said:
I see your point, but to me it turns into a math problem. Take my truck for example, it's worth about $19,000. Assuming I could get the $19k out of it and then find a very comparable truck for $19k, I'm still out $1,200 in taxes alone. You can fix a lot of annoying things for $1,200. Also, hard telling what you are going to get if you buy a similar truck. I know that mine has been well maintained and although it has problems, I know the problems well. Who knows about the "new to me" truck that I'd be buying.

The other option is trading it in on something else, well then the problem is worse, because you are taking a bath on the trade-in and you still don't know what you are getting on the other end. Plus I know few guys who trade in a $19,000 truck on a $19,000 truck so most likely you are trading it in on a more expensive truck so now you are either using your savings or taking out a loan.

In short, most replacement options involve/require spending money and in most cases the money guys spend to avoid fixing their current rig usually greatly exceeds any current and future repair costs they would incur on their current rig.
Click to expand...

Find your own buyer and run it through the dealership on your new purchase, it'll save you the sales tax. I've done it many times.

PS. These threads are all but worthless, they exist for every type of truck. There are a ton of guys that love their brand and a ton of others that hate that same brand. As for me, I've owned a bunch of Ford trucks (10?) and have never had a breakdown. But to pretend that everybody is going to have the same experience all the time is just crazy. Regardless of the name on the tailgate.
 
grizzly_ said:
Find your own buyer and run it through the dealership on your new purchase, it'll save you the sales tax. I've done it many times.

PS. These threads are all but worthless, they exist for every type of truck. There are a ton of guys that love their brand and a ton of others that hate that same brand. As for me, I've owned a bunch of Ford trucks (10?) and have never had a breakdown. But to pretend that everybody is going to have the same experience all the time is just crazy. Regardless of the name on the tailgate.
Click to expand...
Amen brother Amen
 
I had an 11, V-8 with no issues at all. Liked the truck a lot in the time I had it. It sounds like they may have had a trans recall for "slamming" into gear on the downshift.
 
I will also add that I traded it for a 2014 Ram 1500 which is the best truck I've ever had. Traded the Ram on a '16 F-150 and don't care for it compared to the Ram.
 
thusby said:
Had a problem with my 2013 F-150 engaging 4 wheel drive on snow/greasy mud/ice. Found the 4 wheel drive to be pretty clunky in general.
Click to expand...

I don't have an issue with mine engaging. But, it is clunky compared to the Ram that got traded in on it. I'd take the Ram back in a heartbeat actually. Just a lot more comfortable truck all around.
 
A little bit of a black sheep here. But I have a 2011 F150 Supercrew with the 6.2. A gas hog but has been super reliable. So far have 177,000 miles on it with zero issues other than routine maintenance on wear parts and a transmission cooler leak at 170k. If you find a 6.2 in those years its worth looking into if reliability is what you are looking for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
120,038
Messages
2,247,795
Members
39,082
Latest member
Anastasia29

Share this page

Back
Top