Brandon270
Well-known member
I've never heard anything bad about the 6.2 other than fuel mileage. I'd rather spend a little more for fuel and know I can rely on my truck everyday.
2009 to 2014 F150's
- Thread starter Jmnhunter
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jyoung1901
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That was exactly my thinking in getting it. Plenty of power and tons of those engines on the road in f250s with 300k+ with very little problems.
SD_Prairie_Goat
Well-known member
Define poor. For me my ram I get like 11mpg in the winter 14 in the summer..
I have had pretty good luck with Fords compared to some other experiences I guess.
My wife had an 08 expedition el 4x4 with the 5.4, no problems at all, sold it with 120k. Probably should have kept it. She now has a 15 with the 3.5 ecoboost and right over 100k. Had throttle body replace and backup camera under warranty at around 45k. Had the front A arms replaced,ball joints power steering pump, plugs, and coils at 95k. The rear cv axle needs replaced which I will do this weekend. All highway driving. Eco boost has more power then that 5.4l but only gets 1.5 mpg better. 13 vs 14.5.
My 03' f250 with the v10 puked up a spark plug and that took longer to watch youtube videos then to do that repair. Replaced the front end but that truck is pushing 20 years old, that is expected. Sitting at 130k. My hunting truck.
16' 6.7 diesel, no big issues but it was deleted. It was leaking from the oil pan and transfer case when I traded it in at 170k.
19' 6.2 gasser, I replaced the shocks otherwise running strong. 90k. Gets 11.5 mpg hauling a welder everwhere.
My wife had an 08 expedition el 4x4 with the 5.4, no problems at all, sold it with 120k. Probably should have kept it. She now has a 15 with the 3.5 ecoboost and right over 100k. Had throttle body replace and backup camera under warranty at around 45k. Had the front A arms replaced,ball joints power steering pump, plugs, and coils at 95k. The rear cv axle needs replaced which I will do this weekend. All highway driving. Eco boost has more power then that 5.4l but only gets 1.5 mpg better. 13 vs 14.5.
My 03' f250 with the v10 puked up a spark plug and that took longer to watch youtube videos then to do that repair. Replaced the front end but that truck is pushing 20 years old, that is expected. Sitting at 130k. My hunting truck.
16' 6.7 diesel, no big issues but it was deleted. It was leaking from the oil pan and transfer case when I traded it in at 170k.
19' 6.2 gasser, I replaced the shocks otherwise running strong. 90k. Gets 11.5 mpg hauling a welder everwhere.
jyoung1901
New member
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- Sep 4, 2019
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I get about 12.3 combined with mostly city driving. Interstate unloaded around 70 i can get 13.4 or so. So id say 11-13 with the 6.2 and 35" tires.
SD_Prairie_Goat
Well-known member
Ya, I'm jealous! Haha 4.7L v8 in my truck just can't handle heavy AT tires I guess.
NDGuy
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- Apr 26, 2018
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- 2,524
Welp I bit the bullet, I fixed my exhaust manifold, belt tensioner, and idler pulley for $1300 and am now committing to keeping my truck. 130k miles hopefully get to 200 without major issues.
tzone
Well-known member
You probably made the better choice. $1300 is like 3 payments nodays towards a new one. I'm guessing you own it outright so, you're ahead on that deal.
NDGuy
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- Apr 26, 2018
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I will own it outright in 2 months, $1500 left on it. I was proud I paid it off 1 year earlier than my finance contract.
Yeah the way I looked at it is spend $1300 on something not overly worrisome or pay $20k on another truck that could have a worse issue.
Yeah the way I looked at it is spend $1300 on something not overly worrisome or pay $20k on another truck that could have a worse issue.
Brandon270
Well-known member
There's always a line where you eventually have to let a vehicle go because it's not worth dumping money into anymore. But having no payments and replacing some parts once in a while is a huge money saver if the vehicle is still relatively reliable overall.
Both my wife's and my vehicles have been paid for for some time now. We started a car savings fund that we put about half of what an average car payment would be each month into it. We use that for the occasional part that needs to be replaced but that rarely happens. At the rate we are going we can pay about half down or more on our next truck.
Jmnhunter
Active member
well, that didnt take long, owned a '13 ecoboost for about 1 month 79k on it; got the timing chain rattle on saturday morning; cant get it to replicate, but once it gets more consistent I'm going to exercise my warranty (although that makes me nervous)...
For those who have done the chain/phaser repairs, are they replaced with something better than stock or will this happen in another 80k miles? As long as my warranty covers it, I dont really care, just going to be a PITA
For those who have done the chain/phaser repairs, are they replaced with something better than stock or will this happen in another 80k miles? As long as my warranty covers it, I dont really care, just going to be a PITA
shannerdrake
Well-known member
So I was one of the unlucky owners of a 13 Ecoboost with a myriad of problems including the timing chain rattle. A lot of warranties will not cover unless you are getting a sensor light. However, videos of the rattle are very helpful. I would record your cold starts and try to get a handful of videos with the rattle and take it from there and show your dealer.
Also, if you get your warranty to cover it, make sure they replace the phasers. I have read numerous cases where the chain only was replaced and the rattle returned quickly. However, to your question - on the early generation Ecoboosts, the timing chains seem to stretch regardless. Ford has shown repeatedly that they consider this a "wear item" and aren't concerned about it. Therefore, I don't think another chain/phaser fix 80,000-100,000 down the road is unlikely. However, you can help avoid it by running more frequent oil change interval (5k instead of 10k regardless of what the computer says), using Motorcraft filters, and running a good full synthetic. Sludge is a major contributor to the rattle and long changer intervals with cheap oil is a great way to get sludge.
That all being said, I ended up running Mobil 1 high mileage extended performance and Lucas Oil stabilizer and it actually stopped the chain rattle after it had done it for 40,000 miles. It is also important to use a Motorcraft filter. They have a better check valve than most of the aftermarket filters and prevent the oil bleed-off overnight that causes the dry start and the rattle. I have also read about guys adding Seafoam to their oil before their change to break up the sludge and had the rattle stop after the next oil change.
I'd like to add before I get a bunch of hate mail, yes I realize that the increased viscosity of the high mileage oil and the additive were simply coating my chain and only stopping the rattle but not actually "fixing" anything. However, search the internet far and wide, please find me one case of where the rattling chain actually did fail. My attitude is that I would fix it the day my engine light came on, but before that happened, I was in a wreck that totaled it and I took my insurance check and bought a 5.0 FX4 and haven't regretted it once.
Also, if you get your warranty to cover it, make sure they replace the phasers. I have read numerous cases where the chain only was replaced and the rattle returned quickly. However, to your question - on the early generation Ecoboosts, the timing chains seem to stretch regardless. Ford has shown repeatedly that they consider this a "wear item" and aren't concerned about it. Therefore, I don't think another chain/phaser fix 80,000-100,000 down the road is unlikely. However, you can help avoid it by running more frequent oil change interval (5k instead of 10k regardless of what the computer says), using Motorcraft filters, and running a good full synthetic. Sludge is a major contributor to the rattle and long changer intervals with cheap oil is a great way to get sludge.
That all being said, I ended up running Mobil 1 high mileage extended performance and Lucas Oil stabilizer and it actually stopped the chain rattle after it had done it for 40,000 miles. It is also important to use a Motorcraft filter. They have a better check valve than most of the aftermarket filters and prevent the oil bleed-off overnight that causes the dry start and the rattle. I have also read about guys adding Seafoam to their oil before their change to break up the sludge and had the rattle stop after the next oil change.
I'd like to add before I get a bunch of hate mail, yes I realize that the increased viscosity of the high mileage oil and the additive were simply coating my chain and only stopping the rattle but not actually "fixing" anything. However, search the internet far and wide, please find me one case of where the rattling chain actually did fail. My attitude is that I would fix it the day my engine light came on, but before that happened, I was in a wreck that totaled it and I took my insurance check and bought a 5.0 FX4 and haven't regretted it once.
I just hit 139k tough miles on my 2013 5.0.
I had a water pump go out that was under warranty when it was new. That is the only thing I would say that isn’t routine.
I’ve done break pads and ball joints.
A passenger window regulator last month.
This week is new shocks. But I’d consider that very routine.
For the horrible places I have taken this truck I am very happy with it.
I had a water pump go out that was under warranty when it was new. That is the only thing I would say that isn’t routine.
I’ve done break pads and ball joints.
A passenger window regulator last month.
This week is new shocks. But I’d consider that very routine.
For the horrible places I have taken this truck I am very happy with it.
Just getting broke in! Just about double the miles on my 2010. It's become my backup vehicle now. Drive it once in a while when I need a truck. No major complaints considering what it's been through.
3855WIN
Well-known member
4wd hub actuator failure
