Varying Load Data

[JFish]

I started piecing together components as I find them to re load in the off season. I found hornady interlocks in 270 130 grain, and Accurate 4350 powder. As per the $1 I paid hornady via their app for load data on 270 win, the minimum load for that powder and bullet is 48.6 grains and max 54 grains. The load data listed by Accurate is a minimum of 51 grains and max of 56.7 grains. In the world of grains of powder, is 2.7 grains a lot of variance? The listed COL is different for each as well as the cases used.

 

[Idahoarcheryhunter]

Yes that variance is a lot, I would assume you’re new to reloading? I would always recommend starting on the lower end of load data.

 

[JFish]

Yes that variance is a lot, I would assume you’re new to reloading? I would always recommend starting on the lower end of load data.

Yes I’m new to reloading. That was my thinking too. I was surprised not to see exactly the same load data For that particular powder.

 

[Sawtooth]

Every rifle will have a different "max load". Make sure to spend a little time reading about how to identify high pressure signs so that you know when your rifle is getting near it's safe max load pressures. Start at the lower powder charges and work up by half grain increments. If you start to have brass showing pressure signs don't go higher. That is when things can go south in a hurry.

 

[Idahoarcheryhunter]

Yes I’m new to reloading. That was my thinking too. I was surprised not to see exactly the same load data For that particular powder.

Data can differ between companies, books etc. I would recommend some time researching pressure signs and what to look for to make sure you are safe.

 

[Don Fischer]

You'll find that the equipment use to test loads by manufacturer are always different. A hot load safe in mod mod 70 may be to hot in another! You need to learn to see pressure signs, they always show up before disaster if your working your way up. Flat primer's should be really flat before you would worry about them. Problem being different primer's have different cups and some are softer than other's. Watch for gas around the primer. Most people that I see post a photo of a primer show a primer obviously fire but maybe and maybe not showing pressure. I look for a stiff bolt opening and/or extractor mark on the head of the case. I think they are much better signs. Bear in mind that just because a lot worked writing up a manual does not mean it will work in your rifle. Good new's is I have never run into a listed load that even though to hot, blew up a rifle because of the load. One more thing, if you are running hot your primer pocket's will enlarge faster. You'll notice after each firing the new one's get easier to seat. And a lot of guy's like to measure case heads. They say any expansion at all is to hot. I'm not so sure abut that. Most new case's measured will be smaller diameter than they should be and they do expand some. So that might be true but I've never found it to work. learn to read pressure signs.

 

[std7mag]

I'll agree with Don!
Hard to open bolt , shiny spots on the case head are definitely easier than trying to read primers!
Some people measure the base diameter of the casing too.

When looking at data, also be aware of..
1) Tested barrel length.
A 26" will show more velocity than a 24", or 22".
2) Firearm, or universal receiver. They are different.
3) Type & Manufacturer of primer.

 

[AlaskaHunter]

Every rifle will have a different "max load". Make sure to spend a little time reading about how to identify high pressure signs so that you know when your rifle is getting near it's safe max load pressures. Start at the lower powder charges and work up by half grain increments. If you start to have brass showing pressure signs don't go higher. That is when things can go south in a hurry.

So true! Also a safe load developed in the cold of winter may be unsafe in hot summer.
And a change in components can change pressure, for example changing from a lead core bullet to a monolithic bullet will typically increase pressure.

My favorite example is from my old 1970 Lyman reloading manual were they load a 110 gr 30 06, but changed case from a larger volume Winchester case to a smaller volume Remington case, changed from Winchester 110 to Fed 210 primer, and added a crimp.
The velocity only increased 64fps, yet the pressure jumped 9,100 C.U.P.
Pressure increased by 20 percent and was above a safe limit, and velocity increased by 2 percent.

 

[JFish]

So true! Also a safe load developed in the cold of winter may be unsafe in hot summer.
And a change in components can change pressure, for example changing from a lead core bullet to a monolithic bullet will typically increase pressure.

My favorite example is from my old 1970 Lyman reloading manual were they load a 110 gr 30 06, but changed case from a larger volume Winchester case to a smaller volume Remington case, changed from Winchester 110 to Fed 210 primer, and added a crimp.
The velocity only increased 64fps, yet the pressure jumped 9,100 C.U.P.
Pressure increased by 20 percent and was above a safe limit, and velocity increased by 2 percent

Maybe that is why the load data is different. Two different cases are used in them but same primer and barrel length. I will do some more reading about pressure signs and pay better attention to the load data. I’m not ready to start reloading, just collecting components and information.

Do you all generally stick to only one brand of case? I have several different brands that I’ve saved. Im assuming loads should be worked up separately from brand to brand?

 

[std7mag]

Rifle cases, yeah, i'd try to stick with one brand.

Pistol cases (380 auto, 9mm, 40 S&W, 45 ACP) i don't worry about brand.
All my pistol is mixed brand, range pickup.

 

[MrAjs04b]

Maybe that is why the load data is different. Two different cases are used in them but same primer and barrel length. I will do some more reading about pressure signs and pay better attention to the load data. I’m not ready to start reloading, just collecting components and information.

Do you all generally stick to only one brand of case? I have several different brands that I’ve saved. Im assuming loads should be worked up separately from brand to brand?

When I’m doing load development, I try to stick with one brand of brass (& other components), just to get more consistent data. I too have several different brands collected but have found it better to treat every brass type as a different load development project, so generally use whatever brand I have the most of as a starting place.

 

[std7mag]

And you start over when changing any component.
Brass, bullets, primers, powder.
Different bullets like a different COAL (or length to bullet ogive) for different rifles.
VLD bullets are a thing unto their own & best saved for another day.

 

[Don Fischer]

Maybe that is why the load data is different. Two different cases are used in them but same primer and barrel length. I will do some more reading about pressure signs and pay better attention to the load data. I’m not ready to start reloading, just collecting components and information.

Do you all generally stick to only one brand of case? I have several different brands that I’ve saved. Im assuming loads should be worked up separately from brand to brand?

Keep in mind also that no two chamber's are generally the same, close but that's about it. Barrel's vary a bit also contributing to different pressure. Pressure is nothing to worry about though if you start low, learn to read it and live with that. Don't do that and this very safe hobby could instantly become a train wreak! Each case even in the same brand is going to be somewhat different, each primer a bit different and even the bullet's it seem's and vary. I have seen difference in weight's of the same bullet's from the same box that are amazing Then too the ogive while always in the same spot is not always in the same spot! It could be a bit farther from the base or closer! Modern manufacturing is amazingly accurate but not actually perfect! But the tolerances are normally so small living within them is easy, IF, you pay attention!

 

[Wildhunter]

Does anyone in this thread have any recommendations on powder for reloading a 7mm-08 with 150gr hornady ELD-X. I’ve been trying to find load data on it but can’t seem to find anything. Just trying to see if anyone familiar with reloading has any ideas of where to start. Thanks guys!