Threading and chopping a barrel?

[Robert N]

Sample of 2 I recently had cut and threaded.

Tikka factory 6.5CM from 24” to 18”. 35fps per inch loss with 2 different proven hand loads (Hornady 130 ELDM and Barnes 127 LRX) Was a bit shocked to see that much loss.

Custom .308 Win with a Lilja barrel from 22” to 18”. 24fps per inch loss with one hand load (165 Accubond).

Both rifles are proven shooters, but call it me having a good day, change in barrel harmonics, or just luck, but both shot consistently better than ever.

All verified over a Garmin chronograph.

Local shop was $125 for cut, thread, crown.

Actually, up to a certain point shorter barrels are stiffer than longer barrels do have a tendency to shoot more accurately.

One of the singular most accurate rifles in my safe is a POF AR10 with a 14.5” barrel + 2” welded on brake for a total of 16.5”. Sure, velocity is 30-30 level but darned if it’s not shooting 1” 200 yard groups.

 

[Bux_N_Beards]

Actually, up to a certain point shorter barrels are stiffer than longer barrels do have a tendency to shoot more accurately.

One of the singular most accurate rifles in my safe is a POF AR10 with a 14.5” barrel + 2” welded on brake for a total of 16.5”. Sure, velocity is 30-30 level but darned if it’s not shooting 1” 200 yard groups.

What was interesting in the case of this 308 is that it’s shot anything and everything I’ve ever loaded for it into tiny groups (Ballistic Tips, Scenars, TTSX, Hornady Interlocks, etc.) - except this particular 165 AB load. I decided to give them one more go before pulling the bullets and dumping the powder, and am glad I did. They basically went into one ragged hole at 100yds. Before the cut/thread they were 1-1.5” at best, which was a complete anomaly both for this rifle and several others I’ve shot Accubonds in. Coincidence, who knows, but I found it interesting.