Threading and chopping a barrel?

That’s what I’m thinking. Only 4k PSI max difference between the two. Load a slightly faster burning powder in the 7-08 and they’d probably be close enough that no cervid would tell the difference.

There would definitely be a velocity difference. Just not enough to matter with the right bullet
 
i brought a 300wsm for a reason, its a 200 meteres better 308. mine has a 26 inch pipe, a lightweight muzzle break that is aluminium and weights nothing.
hunting tahr on the east side in a howling norwester gives you a certain advantage with the extra speed, i believe wyoming and montana have similar conditions.
losing 20 to 30 kg off the waist would be the easiest option.
 
Gun is 300wsm r700 with sporter barrel. Took it to smith to thread barrel for a can. Will need a shoulder/collar according to the gun smith. Question is for those that have chopped a barrel what are pros and cons. Can length is 6”.
I have taken a handful of elk with a 7mm-08 great cartridge but that discussion is too removed from the original post asking for pro and con of chopping a barrel.

If you elect not to chop a barrel, great.
 
Cut a tikka 300 wsm to 18”. No collar but use a um 1/2 to 5/8” adapter. I’m also using an OG can from them that only adds 4” to length. 4” goes over barrel. Love how it handles. Haven’t checked velocity yet.
 
I'd like to see some of these 20" velocities. My 20" tikka prefit has arrived to go shorter, lighter, and twistier. I'm at 3070fps with barnes 175lrxs with the factory 24" thats staying on for my tags next week.
 
I'd like to see some of these 20" velocities. My 20" tikka prefit has arrived to go shorter, lighter, and twistier. I'm at 3070fps with barnes 175lrxs with the factory 24" thats staying on for my tags next week.
Went from 24” to 20” data as listed :
Pre chop velocity was 3027 post chop 2879.
 
Two years ago I decided to build a dedicated silencer ready deer hunting setup. Took my 24” tack-driver Christensen Arms Carbon Ridgeline and found a pre-fit 16.25” Proof barrel for it. That’s an 8” barrel subtraction to which I added an 8” Q Thunder Chicken can to it.

The 25 fps is a very realistic number. Using Federal Blue Box 150 gr. Factory loads, I got 2,800 fps in the 24” barrel and 2600 fps in the 16” barrel.

Similar effect on a 165 gr. Ballistic Tip over some Varget: 2750 dropped to 2550. That load dropped to subsonic right at 1,025 yards…

I built some 180gr. Loads with Nosler competition seconds and they were down in the 2,450 fps range, from about 2600…so, kinda similar to a 30-30 with a 170 flat nose but with better ballistics.

Reality: I built a solid deer rifle that will do its job out to 500 yards…elk to 300 yards…and plenty of other critters a lot closer.

At 8.5# scoped with a 2-10vx5 it’s handy, effective, and fires sub MOA groups with the cheapest factory ammo I can find. Federal Blue Box.

25 fps per inch is a decent frame of reference. That’s all it is. Be happy if you beat that number!
 
Went from 24” to 20” data as listed :
Pre chop velocity was 3027 post chop 2879.

So you lost about 75 yards of expansion velocity(still over 700 yards) and added 1 moa more drop at 500 yards. For a quieter rifle. Worth it
 

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