Mellow out. Guess I should used a smiley face. mtmuleyPeer pressure? He asked for opinions....
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Mellow out. Guess I should used a smiley face. mtmuleyPeer pressure? He asked for opinions....
Mellow out. Guess I should used a smiley face. mtmuley
Gun is 300wsm r700 with sporter barrel. Took it to smith to thread barrel for a can. Will need a shoulder/collar according to the gun smith. Question is for those that have chopped a barrel what are pros and cons. Can length is 6”.
I don’t have those tools. I told the smith to chop it and thread it At 20”Can you mic your barrel at where you plan to chop? I can give you diameter of mine at the suppressor.
How short do people think a barrel really needs to get to go from 3000 FPS to 2100 FPS (30% reduction)? It isn't anything that doesn't require an ATF tax stamp. Have to get to sub 10"?
Also, lot of people worried about velocity that shoot factory ammo that can easily vary over 100 FPS between lots and they'd never know.
I’ve personally threaded hundreds of barrels, specifically for suppressor use. And while 1/2x28 threads can technically be used on a .30 cal, the minor diameter of the threads will cut to ~.450”. That leaves about .070” wall thickness between the bottom of the threads and the bore. When you throw a 6”+ can on the end there can be enough leverage to actually bend/snap the barrel at the threads if the can hits something or the gun is dropped/stepped on. I’ve also seen 1/2x28 threads swell from higher pressure of .30 mag cartridges. For .30 cal 9/16 threads or even better 5/8x24 threads are preferred if the barrel OD is big enough.
Your smith is correct and for suppressor use a shoulder for the suppressor or mounting attachment to seat against is highly recommended for a handful or reasons.
As for velocity drop it is not always so cut and dry. I just shot Sunday and my 6.5creed with a 20” barrel and a 5” suppressor was shooting ~75fps under factory rating. My .270win w/ a 20” barrel and 7” suppressor averaged 2fps faster than factory rating of the ammo out of a 24” barrel. And my 6.5prc with a 18.5” barrel and 5” suppressor lost ~about 100fps. So depending on the load, caliber, and firearms they lost anywhere from 0-18fps per inch of barrel lost. I have seen greater velocity lost just depending on specific loads but this was just my most recent testing.
I’ve compared velocities before on a barrel before and after chopping but my numbers Sunday I just needed to get velocities for some dope cards for a couple new hunting rifles so I my comparison was based off the box “factory” rating. Based on previous testing using handloads I have generally seen 0-50fps/inch loss depending on rifle. 25fps/inch is generally a decent rule to follow but again it has varied on different setups.Are you comparing your 20” rifle to actual 24” velocities or just what velocity is on the box of ammo?
That was an average loss over 20 shots. It was in a short barreled (20”) 26 nosler I had. The groups started opening up and needed a rebarrel so I chopped it and threaded it to experiment and use up some reloads before I rebarreled it to 7prc. So yes it was an extreme example on an highly overbored cartridge but I technically have seen it haha. But I still say 25fps/inch is a pretty decent general rule to followWere those 50fps/inch loss one shot comparisons or multiple? Just wondering if most of that 50fps was the extreme spread and you just caught the extremes. Not saying it doesn’t happen I’ve just never personally had it happen
That was an average loss over 20 shots. It was in a short barreled (20”) 26 nosler I had. The groups started opening up and needed a rebarrel so I chopped it and threaded it to experiment and use up some reloads before I rebarreled it to 7prc. So yes it was an extreme example on an highly overbored cartridge but I technically have seen it haha. But I still say 25fps/inch is a pretty decent general rule to follow
When you look at the wall thickness on a sporter profile barrel in .30 caliber after threading to 1/2-28 you will understand why most of us won't thread that size barrel without adding an adapter with a recoil shoulder. Single point threading puts a ton of tool pressure on the barrel through the threading tool. When you have a thin wall between the OD and the bore, that tool pressure translates directly to the inner surface of the bore. While you may not see the reverse of the threads in the bore, there is a good chance that you have created a slightly tighter spot in the bore under the threads or, in some types of barrels (hammer forged and Button rifled) even after stress relief, there is still stress in the steel and that can be released when you cut down the muzzle to the correct OD for threading. That can make the bore open up at that point and create a loose spot. Either of these problems can occur- not always mind you, but I have measured it many times and the accuracy suffers. By threading the barrel OD as is- not reducing it first, then adding a collar at the next higher OD, usually 5/8-24, you avoid that problem altogether. Its not ideal, but it works and in my mind there is much less chance of bending that section of the barrel should you drop the rifle with suppressor attached- yes I have had several come through the shop after that happened and it required me to shorten the barrel again.Well I think I’ll go down to 20”. But smith seems adamant that even at 20” I need to have a collar. I’m not a fan of that. I think it’ll look like s*** but I’m also not a smith.