grandejuan
Active member
Check out "Conetrol" rings and bases. No need to worry about bending scope tubes. GJ
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Leupold Backcountry Aluminum. Just fitted 2 of my rifles with them and love that they can't rust and are 1.5 pieces.
Just have the local sporting goods store mount the scopes (if they can) as they can do it with boresight in about 15 minutes and you won't have to worry about it not being done correctly. The 2 I just had done were done this way and they didn't even charge me for it.
It certainly shouldn’t be bending things enough to get from the elastic region to the plastic region. I like the way those mounts have worked for all my hunting rigs thus far. I guess I can live with a little stress on the tube as long it works great.
As far as centering a used scope goes, if you fixed all the focus issues related to trying to see something mounted to you objective(ask a friend to hold a quarter over the center of your objective and look at the target) the guts would have to be so perfectly centered to show you your scopes center that it would be incredibly difficult to implement.
Super easy method
Turn the adjustment all the way down, and count clicks or marks until it’s all the way back to the top, divide your clicks by two, and return to that location. Now do the same with windage, and if you noticed that either had started a long way from center, then do it again from this point because you probably got shortchanged a little.
Not quite as easy method.
Grab a flashlight and look through the objective. With a little shifting of your head and light position as well as your focus and figuring out what you can see in there, find your erector tube. In most scopes you can see the interface between the adjustment knob and the erector tube as well as the return spring/springs. If you can see them, you can see if the scope will follow a linear or hyperbolic path, and if the erector tube has any chance slipping or binding on the return spring at extreme adjustments. Both things are nice to know if you plan on dialing rather than setting zero and holding off, especially the linear vs hyperbolic path issue. You can also see if the erector tube is approximately centered on the adjustment. If you can’t see erector tube/adjustment knob interface you can still tell if the erector tube is approximately centered in the scope tube. Get it near center. Now dial the elevation all the way one direction, and count clicks until it has traveled as far as it will go in the other direction, and recenter. Repeat for the windage adjustment. If you dial around while watching the erector tube move inside the scope it becomes extremely clear why being a long way from center can cause problems, especially when dialing up or left where instead of hitting resistance when you think you still have adjustment(as in going down and right) you can continue to dial, but the POI won’t change.
I didn’t mention why the new scopes never look like the crosshairs is off-center. In really old scopes, they moved the crosshairs. If you moved the crosshairs left, your shot moved right, just like with iron sights. Newer scopes, although still a LONG WAY BACK, have a fixed crosshairs that is centered over the objective, and adjustments move the image, so now knobs turn the opposite direction as when they moved the crosshairs. There are parts of the image outside your field of view. If all other things are equal, a scope with more adjustment range has a narrower field of view. Changing power, lense diameters(and thus tube diameters), tube length(I think) also change field of view though. It’s all a trade off.
If I ever buy a used scope I'd want it mechanically centered before I took it out to sight in. Generally the closer you can stay to mechanical center, the better off you are. I'm aware of turning it all the way left or right and up or down and getting total clicks from the manufacturer and moving it back half that number.
It works. I posted the same method a few years ago. mtmuleyDang, that is slick as snot...if it works.
You just need to go through it 2-3 times or look through backward because if you started a long way from center, then you’ll bottom out early, and upon halving the number and dialing to it, you could still be a fair amount off. You will get close enough the first time though that doing it again should pretty much put you right there.
If Leupold says that scope abcd has 300 clicks lock to lock and you turn it all the way to one side, shouldn't 150 clicks the other way land you pretty much in the center? Assuming that you can count that many without futching it up.
Well of course! But what if you couldn’t find that information?
Also, you don’t have to count to 150. Count how many clicks are in one turn, or if you have target turrets, you don’t even have count that, you just read the dial.
Bought a FAT wrench and I went with a EGW one piece base and Burris Zee signature rings for my new scope ti make sure everything is straight and tight without having to get into lapping kit. Hoping this is a winning combination
Lapping increases the surface contact area between the scope tube and rings. The assembly can look straight, but only 25 percent of the ring surface could be in contact with the scope and you can't tell by looking. To most it may or may not matter but to the anal or persnickety person it probably will matter.
Hope they work for you.That's why I chose the Burris zee signature rings. They have a nylon compression type insert that contacts the scope to eliminate the need for lapping. From what reviews I have read they have been performing as advertised.
What ammo have you found to work with your set up?I noticed nobody posted exactly what they bought. Here is what I bought from Optics Planet.
Howa 1500 .308
Leupold Dual Dovetail DD Base, 2 Piece, Rem 700, Matte Black - 50042 $24.89
Leupold Dual Dovetail DD Rings - 30mm, High, Matte Black - 49958 $36.89
Leupold Scopesmith Ring Wrench - 48762 $12.95
One could get by without the wrench, but this way it will stay with my other gun tools.