Rifle Brand for 7mm Rem Mag

[Dr. Vette]

The HS precision stock has an aluminum bedding block in it. The grouping as I have said before isn't the best. I shot multiple groups in November at 100 yards, 200 yards and 300 yards and my group at 100 was well over 1 MOA, 200 was almost 3 inches low and one at 6 o'clock and the other shot 8 o'clock. The 300 yard group was around 3 inches low again but it was around 5 o'clock and the second shot not even hitting the steel target which was a 8 inch tall, 12 inch wide buffalo silhouette target. Shooting the groups were following missing a nice 10 point at a shade under 400 yards. I by no means will say that I am olympic caliber marksmen but I have been shooting the majority of my life with bolt actions and I have 4 years of being in the Marines and in the Raider Battalion along with that. I have to this point not been overly pleased with the grouping whether it's factory ammo or hand loaded ammo and I also realize that it is a 700ish rifle brand new, which is why I bought a different stock and put a timney trigger in it. The trigger and I'm sure the stock has helped but it almost seems that the barrel is very picky about what it likes. I also have a .264 win mag in a model 70 sporter with the original wood stock that my dad bought brand new in the 80's with maybe 2-300 round through it and I can group a little more than an inch or under with the cheap pentax scope he has on it even with factory ammo. The trade in value at the gun store I deal with was $750 when I had them take a look the other day. I also don't have much interest in acquiring numerous rifles in different calibers being that I already have a .308, .264, .243, .223 (AR) and a 7mm Rem Mag. My hunting buddy has a 6.5 creedmoor, 6.5 PRC, 257 weatherby, 30-06, 300 PRC, .223 (AR) and some other rifles and he has a hard time figuring out which one to use. Here in WV I can take almost anything that lives in the woods with all the calibers I have especially the .243 and up. I would not feel the least bit bad about using the 7mm or .264 for anything in North America which has been a proven thing over the years of being introduced as a caliber.

The aluminum bedding block makes the stock firm, but it's not the same at all as actually having a stress-free bedding job done. I have eliminated all of the issues you mention by bedding a rifle, and yes that includes bedding several Vanguards and other rifles using McMillans, HS and Bell & Carlson stocks - all with aluminum blocks.

If you'd rather ever sell it...

 

[WVmike]

The aluminum bedding block makes the stock firm, but it's not the same at all as actually having a stress-free bedding job done. I have eliminated all of the issues you mention by bedding a rifle, and yes that includes bedding several Vanguards and other rifles using McMillans, HS and Bell & Carlson stocks - all with aluminum blocks.

If you'd rather ever sell it...

School me on bedding. I've never personally done it myself but I have read about it. Is there a particular method of doing that is better than the next? Certain kits that are better over others? I wouldn't be opposed to bedding it and if that's what gave me better and more consistent groups, I would keep it and spend the extra money on other things.

 

[SCliving Outdoors]

Buy a Tikka. Spend the rest on glass.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Sorry to cross link to another forum, but there is a limit to how much I wish to re-type.


Bedding info here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bedding-suggestions.81374/#post-573903

And here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/mountain-rifle-for-under-1000.197380/page-2#post-1393287

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bedding-question.127283/page-3#post-899007


I strongly suggest reading those, as well as the links I put in those threads.

I have settled on two materials.
the first is Devcon 10110
The other is Pro-Bed 2000 from Score High Gunsmithing
https://scorehi.com/our-products/

Both work well. Devcon is dark gray, Pro-Bed 2000 is black or brown. I will now often choose based on the color of the rifle I am working on, as I am comfortable with both brands. Pro-Bed 2000 is a bit easier to use only because you mix the two parts in a 1:1 ratio, and it seems to have a slower hardening time, giving you a bit more flexibility.

The Pro-Bed 2000 is less expensive to buy from them on eBay as they charge less there for shipping. Why, I’m not sure. It comes in various sized containers so you can buy a small one if just doing one rifle. Devcon is available by Google search, but it has doubled in price in the last 2 years, so I've migrated to Pro-Bed 2000 most of the time.

I do not use JB Weld at all.

Let me know what other questions you have.

 

[WVmike]

Sorry to cross link to another forum, but there is a limit to how much I wish to re-type.


Bedding info here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bedding-suggestions.81374/#post-573903

And here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/mountain-rifle-for-under-1000.197380/page-2#post-1393287

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bedding-question.127283/page-3#post-899007


I strongly suggest reading those, as well as the links I put in those threads.

I have settled on two materials.
the first is Devcon 10110
The other is Pro-Bed 2000 from Score High Gunsmithing
https://scorehi.com/our-products/

Both work well. Devcon is dark gray, Pro-Bed 2000 is black or brown. I will now often choose based on the color of the rifle I am working on, as I am comfortable with both brands. Pro-Bed 2000 is a bit easier to use only because you mix the two parts in a 1:1 ratio, and it seems to have a slower hardening time, giving you a bit more flexibility.

The Pro-Bed 2000 is less expensive to buy from them on eBay as they charge less there for shipping. Why, I’m not sure. It comes in various sized containers so you can buy a small one if just doing one rifle. Devcon is available by Google search, but it has doubled in price in the last 2 years, so I've migrated to Pro-Bed 2000 most of the time.

I do not use JB Weld at all.

Let me know what other questions you have.

Thanks for taking the time to pass along all the info!

 

[Farmerj]

If true, i will have to recalibrate my perception of the Origin actions.

The work I’d have to get done to a savage action and then PVD it would make that savage on par with my Origin action.

A decent coating shop includes polishing and cleaning up the tool marks on the savage action.

I’d like to see even half of the faults that people claim occur with savages. Because I sure don’t have those bad experiences.

 

[Farmerj]

School me on bedding. I've never personally done it myself but I have read about it. Is there a particular method of doing that is better than the next? Certain kits that are better over others? I wouldn't be opposed to bedding it and if that's what gave me better and more consistent groups, I would keep it and spend the extra money on other things.

The idea of bedding is to lock the action to the stock. And have it be as repeatable as possible for every shot.

It takes only 0.008” of movement at the eye to move your point of impact 1” at 100 yards. Do the math. It doesn’t lie.

Your cheek weld, stock/action everything, is an attempt to get it all back to the same layup for every shot.

Then to have the consistency in the ammo to go with the solid platform of a rifle.

A stock that flexes, slides around in the stock, etc, all take away from and exasperate that attempt to get the same sight / rifle line up every time.

Bedded actions have an ability to lock up the rifle better than an aluminum recoil block in the stock. Or a chassis for that matter. There’s specific steps (think savage accu-stock) and how they have to be taken to tighten into the stock/chassis.

Every time you take an action out of a bedded platform, you damage and open up the bedding to loosen the bedding and add looseness to the job.

Acraglass, devcon and a dozen other products on the mark all essentially do the same thing. An epoxy resin that fills in those gaps.

It’s not the products as much as it is the person doing the bedding and their level of details and skills in doing a competent job.

 

[nhenry]

The work I’d have to get done to a savage action and then PVD it would make that savage on par with my Origin action.

A decent coating shop includes polishing and cleaning up the tool marks on the savage action.

I’d like to see even half of the faults that people claim occur with savages. Because I sure don’t have those bad experiences.

Don’t spread that false BS to other people, man. This is the internet. Someone looking into Zermatt to buy an Origin will find this link and see this silly commentary on some dumb forum and base a purchase on it. They have a good product. There are way more differences and you know it.

Zermatt’s tolerances are higher, their processes are more exact, the action’s smoother, you can use shouldered prefits, it’s not ugly as sin, it’s not clunky like any Savages, and it has all of the 700 platform aftermarket; they’re not even in the same ballpark, and there’s no comparison aside from their use of the same threading. The better action is the Origin.

Savage makes an accurate product, but they’re known to rust after one day in the field, feed poorly, have badly installed barrels, be heavy, have poor aftermarket support, have flimsy stocks, etc.

 

[Farmerj]

Don’t spread that false BS to other people, man. This is the internet. Someone looking into Zermatt to buy an Origin will find this link and see this silly commentary on some dumb forum and base a purchase on it. They have a good product. There are way more differences and you know it.

Zermatt’s tolerances are higher, their processes are more exact, the action’s smoother, you can use shouldered prefits, it’s not ugly as sin, it’s not clunky like any Savages, and it has all of the 700 platform aftermarket; they’re not even in the same ballpark, and there’s no comparison aside from their use of the same threading. The better action is the Origin.

Savage makes an accurate product, but they’re known to rust after one day in the field, feed poorly, have badly installed barrels, be heavy, have poor aftermarket support, have flimsy stocks, etc.

no more differences then between a remington and a Tikka.
If you don't like a savage, then state it as your opinion. I know plenty that are happy with Savage and don't lump the entire company into opinion based on one rifle.
Seen plenty of Remington 700 that were not right from the factory.

See plenty of people doing the same with any production rifle.

I guess my having both an Origin action and savages as well is to just be totally discounted as they can't possibly be anywhere near close.
My experience has been different. I'll take my Savage 10 or 11 as quickly as I would the origin.
My experience makes my opinion.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

no more differences then between a remington and a Tikka.
If you don't like a savage, then state it as your opinion. I know plenty that are happy with Savage and don't lump the entire company into opinion based on one rifle.
Seen plenty of Remington 700 that were not right from the factory.

See plenty of people doing the same with any production rifle.

I guess my having both an Origin action and savages as well is to just be totally discounted as they can't possibly be anywhere near close.
My experience has been different. I'll take my Savage 10 or 11 as quickly as I would the origin.
My experience makes my opinion.

Tikka and Remington are plenty different.

 

[Don Fischer]

Sure hope you guy's are around when I decide to get a new wife!

 

[WVTXn]

Was the ejector problem fixed on the savage 110s? Or is it still a known issue? Is the ejector problem less likely on the higher end 110s? Like the ultralite, timberline, high country etc?

 

[blacksheep]

I've never dealt with a Tikka, heard good things but never myself. I don't like that they off even magnum calibers in a 26' barrel.

I have a Tikka in 300 WM with a 24" fluted semi barrel. super smooth bolt and a real shooter. I also had a Remington 700 built with a AG composites stock with a Douglas barrel from Hurricane, WV in 7mm mag. It shoots 1/2 to 3/4 MOA.


blacksheep

 

[BoomerUSAF]

I stand firm with Weatherby Weathermarks

 

[DaveinWV]

I currently have a Weatherby Vanguard 26' 7mm Rem Mag. I'm thinking about trading it next year when I get a bonus from work and I have already dedicated alot of time and development in loads to go completely away from 7mm Rem Mag. I've never bought myself a super nice rifle that I could use for anything. I already have a .308 in Rem 700 that I am putting new glass, stock and trigger on this year. The only thing I'd switch to, would be 7mm PRC but was looking for anyone's input as to what rifle they would pick up in 7mm Rem Mag. I would be trading it on whatever I would be getting. I have put a HS precision stock and timney trigger on it since I've owned it. Ballpark price range for the new rifle would be $2,000 and less. I have handled a Christensen Arms Ridgeline in 300 prc and they are nice rifles along with a couple of Bergaras. Any input would be appreciated.

A Winchester M70 supergrade are nice rifles. Older SAKOs are very nice.

 

[WVmike]

The local gun store I deal with called me the other day and said they have a Seekins Precision PH2 in 7mm Rem Mag allocated for them and said they could order it for me, so I have one on the way. I'm excited to see it and give it a try.

 

[oilcan]

The local gun store I deal called me the other day and said they have a Seekins Precision PH2 in 7mm Rem Mag allocated for them and said they could order it for me, so I have one on the way. I'm excited to see it and give it a try.

You will not be disappointed

 

[danr55]

I've just recently gotten back into kicking around with rifles, but Sarco has Dumolin Mauser actions for sale for about $350. If you know a good gunsmith, you can probably build an excellent rifle for less that $1500. The stock built to fit you, the trigger set to your specs, the barrel to the twist and the length you like. Then you would have one of the finest Mauser action rifles at about 1/5 or what it would cost if you bought it commercially.

 

[1100RemingtonMan]

My advice get a new Remington 700 CDL from Rem Arms in 7mm Rem Mag since you are set up to reload it.

 

[BlacktailMaster]

A little late to the party on this one and you probably already bought a rifle but I did pretty extensive shopping/research when purchasing a new 7MM Rem Mag this year. First, Weatherby is hard to beat. Here are my thoughts on a few choices:

Tikka: One of the most accurate out of the box. Not great for a suppressor (many barrels are not threaded). Also, I always felt like the stock was slippery.

Savage: Heavy. Unless spending north of $2k.

Bergara: Super accurate but heavy unless spending more than $2k. Felt unbalanced to me...barrell heavy side.

Rem: No longer trust.

Christensen: Accurate...great gun, just didn't like the feel. Personal preference.

Ruger: A little basic.

Browning: X-Bolt Speed SR (Suppressor Ready) is their new 2023 version and it checked all of the boxes for me. Felt great in my hand...accurate, balanced, not too heavy, not too light, great feeling stock, shorter barrel at 22" in 7mm and is suppressor ready. So, this was my choice.

Took down a brute of a bull elk this year with it. Could not be happier!