Retrieving problems

RyeGuy74

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Aug 14, 2019
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Hey, so my ECS has gotten into a habit of dropping the bumper halfway back or even running up to it and not picking it up. It's recently happened and I don't what caused it since he was always really good at retrieving. I tried looking up videos on YouTube but everytime, they force fetch with a table. I unfortunately do not have that luxury right now. Just seeing if anyone has any tips and/or advice on how to fix this. My Cocker Spaniel is my first bird dog so no doubt, there's a good chance this issue is because of something I did. Thanks in advance!
 
You can force fetch without a table. If you don’t FF, then retrieving is a task without an associated command, and you are relying on the dog wanting to comply. You can get by with this, but if it were my dog I would FF train it.

I suppose you could try and implement a “hold” command. This is always the first part of FF. Once you have the hold command solid, you could do some retrieving on a check cord, using “hold”. Not sure there is any real benefit to approaching it this way vs going all the way through FF though.
 
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Start with a solid "Hold" command before attempting to force fetch if you go that route. And insist that every retrieve starts with the dog holding what ever you are about to throw. Do not allow the game to continue if he does not deliver to hand. Insist on it by walking over there, placing the bumper in his mouth, and walking back to the original location with him carrying it in his mouth. Repeat as necessary.
 
Robert Milner uses a tennis ball drill. Get the pup exited to chase and retrieve a tennis ball, but don’t throw it again until he brings it to hand. The next retrieve is the positive reinforcement for hand delivery. I am sure many will have better long term results with force fetch or hold conditioning but it couldn’t hurt to give Milner’s method a try.
 
Start with a solid "Hold" command before attempting to force fetch if you go that route.
Agreed, a solid "hold" with no chew or slop is definitely a foundation for a successful force fetch.

No table necessary, and force fetch progresses from the table to the ground anyways, so skip the middle man and just stay on the ground to start.

Also do not be afraid to go seek out a professional to help you train or do it for you. There is nothing wrong with using a professional to be sure your dog is trained properly.
 
Assuming young dog, either way stop playing fetch. Force fetching is sure fire if done right, but it isn't always required. Get the excited and teach him the only way game is played pick up and delivery. Really not a big deal work through it. I use high intense fun retrieves during and after short periods of obedience training. A little goes a long way.
 
I would force fetch...and IMO your way better of having a pro do it than trying to do it yourself. Teaching hold isnt any big deal, but going through proper FF is pretty hard on both you and your dog. I think its harder on the do if you try to do it yourslf
 
How old is this dog? If it’s young, like 6 months it sounds like teething to me. Older dogs that are good retrievers that stop retrieving, it’s usually is a physical problem.
He just turned 15 months old, what do you mean by physical problem??
 
Assuming young dog, either way stop playing fetch. Force fetching is sure fire if done right, but it isn't always required. Get the excited and teach him the only way game is played pick up and delivery. Really not a big deal work through it. I use high intense fun retrieves during and after short periods of obedience training. A little goes a long way
There is a lot of unknowns with your particular dog but in general this from Jejack if you don't want to force fetch. If the dog has a desire to retrieve and loves the "game" make him play by the rules. No delivery equals no fetch.
I use a variation on young dogs by running from them when they are coming back with the dummy. They will chase, then quickly turn around and take delivery. Make it fun, praise etc.
Not sure if appropriate for 15 months, but it all depends on training history and realistic look at his performance.
 
He just turned 15 months old, what do you mean by physical problem??
Do you see anything else different about your dog? I saw a lab with low thyroid lose interested in retreiving. Had a buddy with a Chesapeake lose interest in retrieving, where I knew something physical was wrong. Even though he swallowed his food whole he had a cracked molar that impeded his retrieving. I would give the dog a good once over. If you see nothing get some wing clipped pigeons, QUIT EARLY if you see great interest, and if you see no interest, take the dog to a vet for a once over.

If okay from vet, you probably have a house pet. Sure you could FF but who wants to hunt with a dog that doesn’t want to hunt. Not me, I am not against FF, my gun dog was FF and it taught him to work through being tired, and he loves to retrieve. Good luck
 
Do you see anything else different about your dog? I saw a lab with low thyroid lose interested in retreiving. Had a buddy with a Chesapeake lose interest in retrieving, where I knew something physical was wrong. Even though he swallowed his food whole he had a cracked molar that impeded his retrieving. I would give the dog a good once over. If you see nothing get some wing clipped pigeons, QUIT EARLY if you see great interest, and if you see no interest, take the dog to a vet for a once over.

If okay from vet, you probably have a house pet. Sure you could FF but who wants to hunt with a dog that doesn’t want to hunt. Not me, I am not against FF, my gun dog was FF and it taught him to work through being tired, and he loves to retrieve. Good luck
I also have seen a lab that seemed fine, stopped retrieving due to a cracked molar.
 
I did most the training for my dog but I hired a trainer for doing the forced fetch and she went away for a week. Worked out well.
 
Leupold BX-4 Rangefinding Binoculars

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