August 12th update:
New alternator and regulator. Stayed with the wimpy 45 Amp stock replacement. I found out why I didn't have a gas gauge. I had the rear harness unplugged under the seat. I do not remember this from before, but when it is plugged in one tail light stays lit whether the key is off or the light switch is off. Tracing it back through the harness I see that I spliced in a replacement 12V feed from the fuse box to that connector. I have no memory of that. I'm going to have to have another look at that. Crimp splices don't hold up to 20 years of humidity.
I have all the little running lights on order. They cost 2x as much if you want the correct connectors. Solder time.
I have new headlight bezels, but they are flat grey. I am going to rattle can them gloss black. They also need the old connectors soldered in.
To save on my limited supply of alternator output, I ripped out the old 40Watt stereo amp. The 1983's called and the want it back.
I am pretty much decided that any crimp splice I find will get soldered.
About to hit the screw it point and take the remaining electrical issues to the specialist in town.
When I was replacing the alternator I noticed coolant dripping. Prudence says I need to inspect all the belts and hoses before I head to the back country.
Today I took the passenger door apart to start popping out the dents from the last tip-over. I will replace this door and RH fender eventually, but right now we are holding to the
"just get it road ready" mantra.
Ordered the "KYSOTI" license plate from Idaho DOT! They sent a snail mail approval and asked for my CC info to complete the transaction. I sent back the letter with the requested info, but they have not hit my card yet.
OK you Gen II Toyota veterans. Any advice on the nasty climate control sliding cables? I disconnected them 20 years ago and I have no idea why. Harder than hell to slide. Can you work lube in those cables? I manually set the heater selector in the engine compartment to the cool setting, but everything defaults to the foot vent position with the cable ends off. That will be a problem come defroster time.
Here is the final wheel solution. Right where I want to be, I think. No lifts, no body mods. Not going to burn out a clutch trying to turn something oversized.
Rough Country black 15x8 wheels with the correct -19 offsets. Milestar Patagonia M/T-02 tires. No more bobble head motion and wobbly wheels!
The coil of black house on the far side is the rear diff breather reroute to the front firewall.
@Beignet 's idea to go inside behind the tail light sounds better with each zip tie.
![IMG_3775[1].JPG](https://www.hunttalk.com/data/attachments/304/304244-3a35bbaa99cddcd08f3ee45e0ee02ad3.jpg?hash=OjW7qpnN3N "IMG_3775[1].JPG")
