The first time I ever shot a bow that didn't have suction cup tipped arrows was 1965. I have been shooting recurves and long bows ever since and have always shot split fingers. That's how my dad taught me. But reading this thread got me to wondering if I have been doing it wrong for all these decades. So, I just finished a little test. I shot three arrows split finger then three arrows three under. I repeated this five more times. Not real scientific and a pretty small sample size but the results revealed no discernable difference. I did kina like the feel of shooting three under but instinctive shooting, especially at an animal, relies on muscle memory rather than thinking and aiming. Given that I have 57 years of muscle memory in the bank, using split finger. I'll just stick with split finger.
Recurve Shooting
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Buck Fever NW
Active member
Good discussion and thanks for the report Gouch. When I brought up the question between styles I wasn't really thinking one was necessarily better than the other or anything , as I'm sure both have their place depending on archer/bow, mostly just curious to hear from others. Nice to hear folks chime in, learned some good tips. Great thread!
Next thing I need to settle on is finger tab or gloves, not tough enough for bare fingers haha. Same deal, one day one works better, the next day the other seems better. Just need to pick one and stick with it I guess. Fun stuff trying to learn!
Next thing I need to settle on is finger tab or gloves, not tough enough for bare fingers haha. Same deal, one day one works better, the next day the other seems better. Just need to pick one and stick with it I guess. Fun stuff trying to learn!
Ok. Finally got a minute to explain what I was saying better. The fact I own an actual chalkboard instead of doing this on an I-whatchamacallit might get me a little traction with Brent. 
Ok. So ideally a bow is 2 giant springs. To get the most efficiency out of the cast you want them to pull evenly and spring back evenly.
Like this.
Bow is held dead center. Pull on the string is dead center. Arrow is dead center and 90 degrees to the bow.
We can't do that... Your hand is in the way.
Center of a recurve riser is usually at the top of your hand depending on design. Might be higher might be lower. To high or low and the bow torque on your hand becomes palpable.
Any way you pull a bow the arrow is above center. On top of your hand or on a rest a few inches up or anything in between. So we compensate depending on how you shoot.
Split fingers. If we weaken the upper limb just a touch it pulls straighter then at full draw because your grabbing above center string. Arrow above center slightly. Your grabbing at the arrow. Weak top arrow stays pretty straight. The CLOSER I can get that arrow to the top of your bow hand the closer to the center of the string you are pulling the less I weaken that limb.
But you can see what would happen if you shot split finger with the arrow 1 inch over center. You pull the bow pretty unevenly and lose efficiency. By the way Brent, yes a Bear bow is most likely set up this way. Off the shelf split finger shooter.
3 under. Now I'm pulling really close to center sometimes right at center. So I get spring efficiency like the top photo. Buuut... fingers and hand are in the way of the arrow. The arrow is on top. So if I raise the shelf or rest up a tiny bit to make the arrow again straight with the shot, I get good flight. Still need a weaker limb but not as much. Sometimes no weakness.
Not a bad choice either. Olympic guys shoot under the arrow. String walkers also.
And we're talking about TINY adjustments here. 1/16 to 1/4 inch tops. But knowing which ones to make, how much, and when to make them is what makes a $1400 custom built for you worth it. There's a lot more that goes in to custom to you bows and how we weaken limbs but that's all I wanna give away.
I shoot 3 under because I have a shorter index finger... more comfy. That's it. Either way is up to you as long as your consistent.
Ok. So ideally a bow is 2 giant springs. To get the most efficiency out of the cast you want them to pull evenly and spring back evenly.
Like this.
Bow is held dead center. Pull on the string is dead center. Arrow is dead center and 90 degrees to the bow.
We can't do that... Your hand is in the way.
Center of a recurve riser is usually at the top of your hand depending on design. Might be higher might be lower. To high or low and the bow torque on your hand becomes palpable.
Any way you pull a bow the arrow is above center. On top of your hand or on a rest a few inches up or anything in between. So we compensate depending on how you shoot.
Split fingers. If we weaken the upper limb just a touch it pulls straighter then at full draw because your grabbing above center string. Arrow above center slightly. Your grabbing at the arrow. Weak top arrow stays pretty straight. The CLOSER I can get that arrow to the top of your bow hand the closer to the center of the string you are pulling the less I weaken that limb.
But you can see what would happen if you shot split finger with the arrow 1 inch over center. You pull the bow pretty unevenly and lose efficiency. By the way Brent, yes a Bear bow is most likely set up this way. Off the shelf split finger shooter.
3 under. Now I'm pulling really close to center sometimes right at center. So I get spring efficiency like the top photo. Buuut... fingers and hand are in the way of the arrow. The arrow is on top. So if I raise the shelf or rest up a tiny bit to make the arrow again straight with the shot, I get good flight. Still need a weaker limb but not as much. Sometimes no weakness.
Not a bad choice either. Olympic guys shoot under the arrow. String walkers also.
And we're talking about TINY adjustments here. 1/16 to 1/4 inch tops. But knowing which ones to make, how much, and when to make them is what makes a $1400 custom built for you worth it. There's a lot more that goes in to custom to you bows and how we weaken limbs but that's all I wanna give away.
I shoot 3 under because I have a shorter index finger... more comfy. That's it. Either way is up to you as long as your consistent.
BrentD
Well-known member
Absolutely! You should be on the Khan Academy for this. Thanks!Ok. Finally got a minute to explain what I was saying better. The fact I own an actual chalkboard instead of doing this on an I-whatchamacallit might get me a little traction with Brent.
Buck Fever NW
Active member
Wow, great explanation of the physics involved! Great use of the chalkboard too, I guess it's like a "trad" version of an I-whatchamacallit, lol.
grizzly63
Well-known member
It seems to me that you are leaning towards having us all switch to three under. I feel I have more control of the arrow, stay within my range and do not plan on trying out for the olympics. I'll stick with split fingers. I'm sure its a learned thing for those who choose to switch.
The only reason I suggest trying it is because most commercial recurves are designed that way. They don't usually have a guy at the end of the line fine tillering and adjusting. He's just getting it in the ballpark for weight and even tiller.
Bear is the only exception I've seen. If you watch how a Bear recurve is made there IS a guy at end doing just that. He's fine tuning. Not perfect because he has to do them fast but better than most. Fred Bear made bows affordable but with quality in mind.
As long as you shoot consistently you can shoot the bow sideways grabbing 6 inches up the string and do ok... you just get better perfomance doing it closer to how it was designed.
