Ocean Boat, Outboard Vs I/O

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

Okay,

I know outboard is almost always preferred but here is what I am seeing and my particular situation.



Moving to the PNW, plan on getting a boat fairly early on after the move. After having lived in a landlocked state since I was 18, I am excited to have good fishing again.

Budget: About $25k can flex slightly higher for the "right" boat for me


Requirements that I have come up with so far:

• Seaworthy for 4 guys total
• Fuel capacity to go chase tuna, figure I need to reach 30 miles off shore
• Ability to have a head (for the wife mainly) can be one thats hidden in the cabin which seems common
• The newer the better, want to avoid the 80's boats and early 90's
• If outboard, 4 stroke only
• Something to block out the weather, hard cabin would be amazing, but at least canvas

Now here is what I am finding, it seems like you can get way more boat for your money (size and age) if you go I/O vs outboard. In practical sense, outboard we're talking older boats while I/O many are newer with extra features that seem nice.



I plan on always trailering the boat, this is why I am leaning that maybe outboard isn't as important as I thought. I can't see myself keeping a boat this size in a marina ever. With the ability to flush the I/O after each use, does it matter that much for salt water use?

Here is a prime example for I/O (has 100 gallon fuel tank to boot)




Good example of Outboard (probably the best deal I've seen) 80 gallon fuel capacity from google:








Feels like I should be flexible with the motor type and let the boat be the guide rather than the motor???


Thoughts from the collective?

 

[Irrelevant]

Unless you have the hands of a 4 yr old, you can't reach 99% of the shit that needs reaching on an inboard... I mean that in jest, but only sorta.

 

[Laszlo Cravensworth]

My uncle is a Mercury mechanic in Silverdale, and I think he'd tell you it doesn't really matter I/O vs outboard. I'm sure he's biased, but he talks like those volva/ penta outdrives are the devil.

His boss recently had his boat listed for $25k. It's a bit older and a bit bigger than that seaswirl, but I could send you the info if you'd like.

 

[gburk]

While a clean transom is nice, I/Os are a hack job repurpose of an automotive engine. Either direct drive or outboards for me.

Yamaha 4 stroke and you can worry about other things.

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

My uncle is a Mercury mechanic in Silverdale, and I think he'd tell you it doesn't really matter I/O vs outboard. I'm sure he's biased, but he talks like those volva/ penta outdrives are the devil.

His boss recently had his boat listed for $25k. It's a bit older and a bit bigger than that seaswirl, but I could send you the info if you'd like.

Send it over, curious to see see it. Haven't moved yet so still in research phase.

While a clean transom is nice, I/Os are a hack job repurpose of an automotive engine. Either direct drive or outboards for me.

Yamaha 4 stroke and you can worry about other things.

That was my original thought too, but now I'm thinking I should be more flexible and get the correct set up m regardless of motor type. Like if it checks all the boxes but is io it shouldn't be excluded? Haven't seen any direct drive for the boats I've seen listed, not positive why

 

[Laszlo Cravensworth]

Send it over, curious to see see it. Haven't moved yet so still in research phase.


That was my original thought too, but now I'm thinking I should be more flexible and get the correct set up m regardless of motor type. Like if it checks all the boxes but is io it shouldn't be excluded? Haven't seen any direct drive for the boats I've seen listed, not positive why

Hit ya with a DM

 

[Gellar]

If you find the right hull but it does not have the motor you are looking for it will be easier to repower an outboard. Going 3o miles offshore I would want a back up whether that is twin outboards or at the very least a kicker motor.

 

[F250]

Boat mechanics here are having trouble getting parts for Volvo I/O’s. Often taking a couple months to get here from overseas. Yamaha outboards have been great for me personally and for work.

 

[Salmonchaser]

Hard to beat Yamaha. I got just over 20 years out of my 200 hp on my guide boat. Do the basics every day, keep good fuel in them, don’t hit rocks, they’ll last.

 

[RealMuddyboots]

First, if a fiberglass boat, have it surveyed BEFORE you sign the papers. This is no different than having a home inspection but will define the seaworthiness of the boat you are buying. Worth every penny to save you TONS of grief. Any fiberglass boat in the age bracket you are looking is definitely in the potential for bad stringers, bulkheads and or transom. For example, 99.99% of people do not pull plug to drain after every use which allows water/moisture to affect stringers sitting in water. Drain points in stringers typically are not well protected which allows water/moisture to be absorbed into stringers.

If boat was in a slip, even more likely.

If boat was trailered, the type of trailer can place stress on entire bottom structure.

Most surveyors can provide trailer review as well. I have a 36 year old Penn Yan I bought new that I had to finally replace trailer. I wore the original out! Holy smokes! A new trailer sticker shock will open your eyes!

I/O versus outboard? If I/O, how easy to change oil filter? Is it external water cooled or newer radiator cooled? Carb or EFI? Older I/O carbs are ridiculously expensive! EFI delivers more HP to prop than older carb I/O's due to rating differences. I am still running same 4.3L carb and runs great. Maintenance is everything. I would not be afraid of I/O if maintained. Cylinder compression test a must IMO.

Outboards have their own issues. Compression test a must as well.

Lower unit pressure test, water in gear oil?

If the boat you really like has an I/O, passed survey, motor solid, trailer solid, I see no reason not to purchase.

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

First, if a fiberglass boat, have it surveyed BEFORE you sign the papers. This is no different than having a home inspection but will define the seaworthiness of the boat you are buying. Worth every penny to save you TONS of grief. Any fiberglass boat in the age bracket you are looking is definitely in the potential for bad stringers, bulkheads and or transom. For example, 99.99% of people do not pull plug to drain after every use which allows water/moisture to affect stringers sitting in water. Drain points in stringers typically are not well protected which allows water/moisture to be absorbed into stringers.

If boat was in a slip, even more likely.

If boat was trailered, the type of trailer can place stress on entire bottom structure.

Most surveyors can provide trailer review as well. I have a 36 year old Penn Yan I bought new that I had to finally replace trailer. I wore the original out! Holy smokes! A new trailer sticker shock will open your eyes!

I/O versus outboard? If I/O, how easy to change oil filter? Is it external water cooled or newer radiator cooled? Carb or EFI? Older I/O carbs are ridiculously expensive! EFI delivers more HP to prop than older carb I/O's due to rating differences. I am still running same 4.3L carb and runs great. Maintenance is everything. I would not be afraid of I/O if maintained. Cylinder compression test a must IMO.

Outboards have their own issues. Compression test a must as well.

Lower unit pressure test, water in gear oil?

If the boat you really like has an I/O, passed survey, motor solid, trailer solid, I see no reason not to purchase.

Was just looking at survey costs. Looks like $500 is possible. Might be able to save if I skip the report and just have the survey deliver results verbally at the boat.


I plan to try and test the boat before buying a survey. Research confirmed the issue points you said, plus the anchor point can be a major headache along with fuel tank. I have a rookie idea how to check those for major glaring issues as a starting point at least

 

[CRJR45]

I/O's are useless , IMO . Especially that Volva/Penta , nobody around here will even work on them .
Going off shore you want a cat for the ride .
Friends don't let friends buy I/O'S !

 

[Greybeard]

First, if a fiberglass boat, have it surveyed BEFORE you sign the papers. This is no different than having a home inspection but will define the seaworthiness of the boat you are buying. Worth every penny to save you TONS of grief. Any fiberglass boat in the age bracket you are looking is definitely in the potential for bad stringers, bulkheads and or transom. For example, 99.99% of people do not pull plug to drain after every use which allows water/moisture to affect stringers sitting in water. Drain points in stringers typically are not well protected which allows water/moisture to be absorbed into stringers.

If boat was in a slip, even more likely.

If boat was trailered, the type of trailer can place stress on entire bottom structure.

Most surveyors can provide trailer review as well. I have a 36 year old Penn Yan I bought new that I had to finally replace trailer. I wore the original out! Holy smokes! A new trailer sticker shock will open your eyes!

I/O versus outboard? If I/O, how easy to change oil filter? Is it external water cooled or newer radiator cooled? Carb or EFI? Older I/O carbs are ridiculously expensive! EFI delivers more HP to prop than older carb I/O's due to rating differences. I am still running same 4.3L carb and runs great. Maintenance is everything. I would not be afraid of I/O if maintained. Cylinder compression test a must IMO.

Outboards have their own issues. Compression test a must as well.

Lower unit pressure test, water in gear oil?

If the boat you really like has an I/O, passed survey, motor solid, trailer solid, I see no reason not to purchase.

This seems like solid advice.

 

[Goodfish]

Get an understanding of your fuel consumption for Tuna fishing. Use the 1/3 rule. 1/3rd tank to the grounds and fishing, 1/3rd tank to get back, 1/3rd tank spare in case the bar crossing gets bad and you have to run somewhere else or wait it out.

 

[jeff_gibbons]

my last boat was I/o. My next boat will be OB. I liked fishing the transom on I/0 better. But working on them really stinks as noted above. Also, my last boat was a buddy cabin with head and more. It was a hassle to keep clean. A center console is the way to go imo

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

my last boat was I/o. My next boat will be OB. I liked fishing the transom on I/0 better. But working on them really stinks as noted above. Also, my last boat was a buddy cabin with head and more. It was a hassle to keep clean. A center console is the way to go imo

Center seems like they will be much colder and wetter. I have for the most part eliminated them knowing that they will significantly reduce the number of days I can be on the water in Washington. There's no real good way of keeping out the weather, is there?

 

[vanish]

There is a reason the NW style boat ( see Hewescraft, North River, etc ) is popular in the NW.

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

There is a reason the NW style boat ( see Hewescraft, North River, etc ) is popular in the NW.

Fair point. Don't think I want to go aluminum for this price point though. Too rough of a ride on a boat that I could afford I feel like. But for the most part they are all Outboards

 

[Moserkr]

You will definitely be looking at fiberglass for that price range. A cabin is a good choice for the weather. A streamlined deep V would be my choice, with a large open rear deck for fishing. Aluminum in saltwater requires a lot more attention because of electrolysis.

Pros to the i/o - cheaper to replace and easier to upgrade. One con is the possible loss of deck space depending on the boat's build, also a little higher maintenance. Outboards can have redundancy if theres 2, but they cost more to replace. A big gas tank or add an auxiliary tank.

All boats will need work, so Id be looking for a deal that needs a little tlc. Preferably a galvanized or aluminum trailer. You will have a lot more to choose from with an i/o at a much better price. I wouldnt shy away from one at all. I agree with getting it surveyed if you are not 100% confident in your inspection skills. Also a boat ride before purchase at that price is mandatory.

 

[Irrelevant]

19 FOOT ARIMA W/ALASKA BULKHEAD SUZUKI 140HP - boats - by owner - marine sale - craigslist

Selling our Arima that works great for crabbing, shrimping, fishing, overnighting. Rare factory Alaska bulkhead with locking door keeps you out of the weather so you can keep fishing longer🦐🦀🐟🎣....

wenatchee.craigslist.org