Need help for Barnes 168 gr 30’06 for elk

[Robg2]

Hello
I’ve only reloaded once in my life. I know very little about powders, loads, etc.

I have a ton of 30’06 brass and a friend said he’d help me reload it when I visit for Christmas. The downside is that I only go over there once a year, so experimenting with different loads will be a slow annual process.

I’d like to get it right the first time, but maybe I’ll bracket a likely starting point to test accuracy.

I normally shoot Barnes 168 TTSX. My rifle is a howa with a 22” 10:1 barrel. It shoots 2-4” groups at 200 yards with factory loads, which is a bit worse than my .243, but maybe it’s flinching with the bigger kick

Does anyone have a good starting point with the type of powder and how much? Maybe I should even try 150 gr or Hammer bullets? The Barnes website has too many options for me to try them all, and they are for a 24” barrel.

 

[Laelkhunter]

I use that same bullet in my 30/06. I load it with IMR-4350 powder. Start around 53 or 54 grains and see how that works. If you think the recoil is causing you problems with trying to shoot accurately, let someone else shoot it to try to find the best load.

 

[Ben Lamb]

I'll second IMR 4350. 53 grains is a solid & safe starting point. I shoot the 165 Barnes over a slightly stouter load of that powder. The Federal & CCI large rifle primers have done well for me. That set up has been boringly reliable.

 

[D4570]

Please, before you start to test loads. CLEAN YOUR BARREL DOWN TO BARE STEEL!
It is imperative to make any all-copper bullet work at its top performance. I don't know why, but it's been shown many times; look it up. After you clean it, you have to foul it with a similar copper bullet you plan to shoot. Most guns: to get top accuracy, don't switch back and forth. This information will save you a LOT of frustration. Also, start with the Barnes-suggested jump to the lands. They need a jump, and they like speed. All we shoot are Barnes and Hammer bullets, not because I have to, but because they tend to shoot better than any traditional bullets in all my guns. That said, in my real high-volume rifles like my .22 Creed, I use cup and core mainly due to price.

 

[Ben Lamb]

Another thing, use brass from the same manufacturer and don't mix your headstamps. You want consistency. Mixing headstamps means your brass with have slight variations in volume, weight, etc. Keep your components the same across the board, and consistency becomes easier. Just like with shooting, removing as many variables as possible helps bring your group size down and increases your consistency.

 

[Robg2]

Please, before you start to test loads. CLEAN YOUR BARREL DOWN TO BARE STEEL!
It is imperative to make any all-copper bullet work at its top performance. I don't know why, but it's been shown many times; look it up. After you clean it, you have to foul it with a similar copper bullet you plan to shoot. Most guns: to get top accuracy, don't switch back and forth. This information will save you a LOT of frustration. Also, start with the Barnes-suggested jump to the lands. They need a jump, and they like speed. All we shoot are Barnes and Hammer bullets, not because I have to, but because they tend to shoot better than any traditional bullets in all my guns. That said, in my real high-volume rifles like my .22 Creed, I use cup and core mainly due to price.

Thanks. I didn't know this. What do you mean "don't switch back and forth."? Do you mean clean barrel before trying a new load?

 

[Robg2]

Another thing, use brass from the same manufacturer and don't mix your headstamps. You want consistency. Mixing headstamps means your brass with have slight variations in volume, weight, etc. Keep your components the same across the board, and consistency becomes easier. Just like with shooting, removing as many variables as possible helps bring your group size down and increases your consistency.

That's good info. I'll be using brass from the manufacturer that has only been shot one time. How much does shooting it a second time affect things?

 

[D4570]

Thanks. I didn't know this. What do you mean "don't switch back and forth."? Do you mean clean barrel before trying a new load?

No, you want the copper fouling when you shoot copper. I meant between traditional bullets and copper. Only shoot copper over copper. If you shoot even a few cup-and-core, you'll see a difference in your group and need to clean it again. I have not noticed any problem shooting lead, cup and core over copper.

 

[Ben Lamb]

That's good info. I'll be using brass from the manufacturer that has only been shot one time. How much does shooting it a second time affect things?

Brass flows from the heat & pressure so your cases will lengthen. Make sure you use your calipers to measure overall case length and then trim if necessary. Once fired brass will be fine, generally. I tend to trim when needed, which usually occurs after the 2nd or 3rd reload.

 

[Robg2]

Any thoughts on primers?

Also, for experimenting, would you increase the powder by 1 or 2 grains? According to Barnes, imr 4350 can vary from 53 to 57.5, the latter being compressed.

4350 powder is out of stock at midway, etc

 

[mevertsen]

I think this will be more complicated that you want it to be. If you only go once per year, and you plan to load a handful of cartridges, you'll be out more in leftover components than just buying some factory ammo with the bullet you want.

 

[Ben Lamb]

Federal 210 or CCI large rifle have been my standby's for primers for the 06. Whichever you get, buy a few hundred of them - because of consistency.

When I'm developing a hunting load, I tend to go in anything from .5 grain increments to .05 depending on how things are shooting. I would imagine for your purposes, loading 1 grain increments would be fine, and then you can refine from there if you want. my pet load for the 06 is the 57.5 grain load in IMR 4350.

Check locally for powder. You'll pay a premium for hazmat shipping. Same with primers.

 

[El Jason]

Any thoughts on primers?

Also, for experimenting, would you increase the powder by 1 or 2 grains? According to Barnes, imr 4350 can vary from 53 to 57.5, the latter being compressed.

4350 powder is out of stock at midway, etc

Whatever large rifle primers you can find locally. CCI 200 are good. Buy your powder at Scheel’s next time you are by one. H4350 will also work. Go up a grain at a time for testing charges.

Personally I’d load five up at a grain below max and see how they shoot.

 

[Jbotto]

I think this will be more complicated that you want it to be. If you only go once per year, and you plan to load a handful of cartridges, you'll be out more in leftover components than just buying some factory ammo with the bullet you want.

I agree with this. Save your brass, sell it off to reduce the price of a case of your favorite load that you’re already shooting. Once a year trip to a reloading bench to find a good shooting load is only going to end in frustration. Unless of course you can shoot your test loads that same day and go back and load a bunch of what you liked best. Or you can leave your rifle with your friend to do the load tests.

 

[Robg2]

I agree with this. Save your brass, sell it off to reduce the price of a case of your favorite load that you’re already shooting. Once a year trip to a reloading bench to find a good shooting load is only going to end in frustration. Unless of course you can shoot your test loads that same day and go back and load a bunch of what you liked best. Or you can leave your rifle with your friend to do the load tests.

I think you guys are right about this. I reached out to a friend here in town and he has the stuff, including the powder so the experiment will start this weekend.

 

[jimh406]

I don't know how much you plan to shoot, but you might consider just buying factory Barnes loads. They aren't that expensive and from all I've seen on tests, they are very accurate.

However, if you just want to reload for reloading sake, that's fine.

 

[Robg2]

I don't know how much you plan to shoot, but you might consider just buying factory Barnes loads. They aren't that expensive and from all I've seen on tests, they are very accurate.

However, if you just want to reload for reloading sake, that's fine.

That certainly is an option. Mostly I want to see if adjusting the loads will help accuracy. Plus I have about 8 boxes of brass laying around.