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Most auto lenses are adjustable (some aren't) if it is, turn it down a shade. Since you're mig welding, "push" your puddle instead of dragging it, if you arent already, the gun blocks your view of where youre going.Don't know about the hood lens except it's an auto darken job. No glasses under. Welder is 140 Easy MIG. I've been trying different angles to see what works. Got some soap stone and yellow marker paint yesterday, going to try it today. Am researching whether some kind of very strong LED light might help.
X2 Jody Collier is an excellent welder. His instructional videos are spot on.As sytes said there's a lot of good stuff on YouTube. I highly recommend the channel "welding tips and tricks" . He's been doing it a long time, no fluff and has some of the best arc shots on there to show you what it should look like under the hood.
How old are you? I found out sometime around 55 I started wearing glasses and watching my bead got harder. Especially in dark shops. Outside in the sun still ok. Started using a flood light especially tig welding inside stainless steel tankers.Beginner welder here. Started playing around with a bench top welder and soon found out how hard it is to see where you're going with the weld. I can't see anything but the weld pool! What do you all use to mark, or get a better view of, the weld pool?
OAF my eyes take forever to adjust to light changes.How old are you? I found out sometime around 55 I started wearing glasses and watching my bead got harder. Especially in dark shops. Outside in the sun still ok. Started using a flood light especially tig welding inside stainless steel tankers.
Yes he is but found I had problems other than actually welding that made things a lot more difficult.X2 Jody Collier is an excellent welder. His instructional videos are spot on.
You nailed it. Took me awhile to catch on. After it dawned on me the hood I was using wasn't going to cut it, I picked one up that has some type of light gathering tech built into it plus it has a 10 inch window. Works pretty good, at least I can see the weld area now thank goodness.Better welding hood. You can't go wrong with a Jackson True Sight.
DO NOT wipe the plastic lense with anything dry. It will trash them pretty quickly. If you weld much at all, buy 10 packs of the plastic protectors.You nailed it. Took me awhile to catch on. After it dawned on me the hood I was using wasn't going to cut it, I picked one up that has some type of light gathering tech built into it plus it has a 10 inch window. Works pretty good, at least I can see the weld area now thank goodness.
so what should they be cleaned with?DO NOT wipe the plastic lense with anything dry. It will trash them pretty quickly. If you weld much at all, buy 10 packs of the plastic protectors.
Got the frame welded together and then the funnel welded into the frame and all seams sealed up. Next week I'll put the hole in it and then weld up the fittings.Got a fun one going on currently. Going to be a funnel for salt and sugar at a food plant. Going to put a 3" hole through the point and weld in a fitting that can swing between 4 barrels. Everything has to be seal welded. View attachment 352869View attachment 352870View attachment 352872


It looks like you passed up a good opportunity for a lot of outside corner fusion welds. I guess that an inside non welded joint could cause product to hang in any weak fit up areas. All in all, it looks pretty nice.Got the frame welded together and then the funnel welded into the frame and all seams sealed up. Next week I'll put the hole in it and then weld up the fittings. View attachment 352917View attachment 352918
Are you talking about on the pyramid itself? I did weld the outside corners first on that. Since it's stainless and requires no seams, I welded the outside corners on pulse laying in .045 wire as necessary keeping the penetration minimal so I didn't sugar the inside. Then once the funnel was welded into the frame I came to the inside and welded those, also on pulse but just fusion with no wire.It looks like you passed up a good opportunity for a lot of outside corner fusion welds. I guess that an inside non welded joint could cause product to hang in any weak fit up areas. All in all, it looks pretty nice.
Thank you. I love using pulse for stuff like that. Gives you all the heat you need but you can sit there for a while before it burns through. I used some scrap to dial in the settings so I was confident I wouldn't burn through.You fusion welded the inside joints? Good job, abit risky but good job. I probably would have done fusion on the outside and filler on the inside but it doesn't have my name on it! You da man, you do it your way! It looks pretty nice.
It would work. Definitely would have to burn a lot of gas. Only problem with fusing the outside corners is that the angle they meet at due to being a pyramid isn't 90 degrees. So it really ends up being a groove weld, almost like a bevel you have to fill.I was just thinking. I wonder how an added gas shield would work underneath the joint laying the pyramid so the outside joint would all be down hand and then use fusion. Then come back and run a "lay wire" technique on the inside? It would be double expensive on gas but I bet you would have some really attractive welds.