Made my first knife

TransplantHunter

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Jan 9, 2019
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Colorado
With winter settling in, I was trying to find something that would occupy a little of my time. I saw online that you could make your own knife so I decided that it would be fun to give it a go. Away to amazon and I ordered some 1084 steel for the forgiveness that it affords in the heat treating step. The 6 pack of bar stock arrived and I quickly got to work.

20260126_081528 (1).jpg

I found a template that I liked online and traced that onto my bar stock. Some gentle cutting with the cut disc on an angle grinder made quick work of the bulk portion so I was left with using a file to shape the blade the rest of the way. After several hours of grinding with a file, I had it in the shape that I wanted.

20260120_163320.jpg

Next up was the heat treat. I was able to use some lump charcoal and blow some air through it in order to get my blade up to temperature. While I cannot be certain of its exact temperature. I made sure to raise the temp to just above the point where the steel becomes non-magnetic. I heated it up and let it air cool back down to room temp 2 times in order to normalize the steel. Then, on the third cycle, I quenched the blade in oil. Luckily, I had no warping and was able to move on to the tempering stage. I put the blade into a 390 degree oven for 2 hours, then air cooled, and then back into the oven for 2 more hours to ensure a good temper.

While that was happening, I made a handle out of cherry that came from where I grew up in Pennsylvania. The wood was made about 30 years ago from some cheery trees that we had and my dad turned into lumber - so I thought it would be nice to have a little callback to my dad.

Anyhow, after some polishing and sanding - I have everything assembled and ready to go. I treated the handle with Tung Oil so it should be pretty well protected. The only thing I have left to do is sharpen it on some whetstones and make a sheath for it. (Picked up some Kydex so I will do that soon).

20260125_144027.jpg

20260125_144039.jpg

Anyhow, I have 5 more pieces of metal so I might try and make a few more blades. It was a fun experiment and I think I know where I can make some improvements in the process. Anyhow, thanks for checking it out!
 
Looks great, good work!

A buddy and I used to make crude knives with saw blades and scrap metal. Gutting a deer with one was pretty neat!
Wow! That is totally awesome! Tthis is something I am hoping to do in the future! I don't know if the 1084 steel will have enough edge retention to process an entire elk, but I figure it will probably hold up to a pronghorn or a deer!
 
Wow! That is totally awesome! Tthis is something I am hoping to do in the future! I don't know if the 1084 steel will have enough edge retention to process an entire elk, but I figure it will probably hold up to a pronghorn or a deer!

Baby steps! Making your own knife and processing a kill, anything, with it is pretty damn rewarding!
 
I love it. I wish I had the skills and equipment to do something similar because I'm a huge knife nerd.

Think you'll ever mess around with different types of steel?
 
I love it. I wish I had the skills and equipment to do something similar because I'm a huge knife nerd.

Think you'll ever mess around with different types of steel?
Really - all it took was a lot of time. You can cut the bare stock with a hacksaw but I used the angle grinder to speed that up. You could also use a bandsaw - I wish I had one of those. For the rest of the shaping, a cheap set of harbor freight files will get the job done. After that, some charcoal and a way to pump air through it (hairdryer, shop vac, etc) will get the heat treating done. After that - a lot of sandpaper.

You should give it a try. You might surprise yourself!

As far as other steel's go, I might give 1095 a try. If I stick with doing this and get more precise with temp control, I might venture into the fancier steels. I doubt I will get too crazy though because some of them are pretty picky and also other need to have a cryo cycle - which I cant do.
 
Wow! That is totally awesome! Tthis is something I am hoping to do in the future! I don't know if the 1084 steel will have enough edge retention to process an entire elk, but I figure it will probably hold up to a pronghorn or a deer!
If you got the heat treat correct, it will stay sharp plenty long enough.

Give this website a look. I buy my knife making supplies here.
 
If you got the heat treat correct, it will stay sharp plenty long enough.

Give this website a look. I buy my knife making supplies here.
Expensive but solid, they charge a lot IMO. Hard to keep even hobby costs down anymore lol
 
Awesome job especially on the first one!
I get my steel from New Jersey Steel Baron. I highly recommend them. Amazon can be questionable for what you’re getting and it may claim to be one thing when actually it’s another.
Their steel is already normalized so that takes out that step.
I used to use tung oil, but it didn’t last very well and had to be redone.
I now actually use Tru-oil that is used for gunstocks. I apply it with my finger and do about 3-5 coats. Holds up extremely well.
Anyway, be careful this can get addictive….
 
Awesome job especially on the first one!
I get my steel from New Jersey Steel Baron. I highly recommend them. Amazon can be questionable for what you’re getting and it may claim to be one thing when actually it’s another.
Their steel is already normalized so that takes out that step.
I used to use tung oil, but it didn’t last very well and had to be redone.
I now actually use Tru-oil that is used for gunstocks. I apply it with my finger and do about 3-5 coats. Holds up extremely well.
Anyway, be careful this can get addictive….
That's good to know about the steel from Amazon. I was just honestly going for something cheap and easy for my first one figuring that I would screw something up along the way. I just didn't want to invest much into it for the first go. I will look into New Jersey Steel Baron!

Do you have any recommendations for another steel type to try that someone can work with at home without a kiln? I wasn't really looking to invest a lot of money into this hobby so I was just going to do stock removal and hopefully have a steel that is easily heat treated at home.
 
With winter settling in, I was trying to find something that would occupy a little of my time. I saw online that you could make your own knife so I decided that it would be fun to give it a go. Away to amazon and I ordered some 1084 steel for the forgiveness that it affords in the heat treating step. The 6 pack of bar stock arrived and I quickly got to work.

View attachment 399784

I found a template that I liked online and traced that onto my bar stock. Some gentle cutting with the cut disc on an angle grinder made quick work of the bulk portion so I was left with using a file to shape the blade the rest of the way. After several hours of grinding with a file, I had it in the shape that I wanted.

View attachment 399785

Next up was the heat treat. I was able to use some lump charcoal and blow some air through it in order to get my blade up to temperature. While I cannot be certain of its exact temperature. I made sure to raise the temp to just above the point where the steel becomes non-magnetic. I heated it up and let it air cool back down to room temp 2 times in order to normalize the steel. Then, on the third cycle, I quenched the blade in oil. Luckily, I had no warping and was able to move on to the tempering stage. I put the blade into a 390 degree oven for 2 hours, then air cooled, and then back into the oven for 2 more hours to ensure a good temper.

While that was happening, I made a handle out of cherry that came from where I grew up in Pennsylvania. The wood was made about 30 years ago from some cheery trees that we had and my dad turned into lumber - so I thought it would be nice to have a little callback to my dad.

Anyhow, after some polishing and sanding - I have everything assembled and ready to go. I treated the handle with Tung Oil so it should be pretty well protected. The only thing I have left to do is sharpen it on some whetstones and make a sheath for it. (Picked up some Kydex so I will do that soon).

View attachment 399788

View attachment 399789

Anyhow, I have 5 more pieces of metal so I might try and make a few more blades. It was a fun experiment and I think I know where I can make some improvements in the process. Anyhow, thanks for checking it out!
Nice job, like the profile.
 
That's good to know about the steel from Amazon. I was just honestly going for something cheap and easy for my first one figuring that I would screw something up along the way. I just didn't want to invest much into it for the first go. I will look into New Jersey Steel Baron!

Do you have any recommendations for another steel type to try that someone can work with at home without a kiln? I wasn't really looking to invest a lot of money into this hobby so I was just going to do stock removal and hopefully have a steel that is easily heat treated at home.
I hope I didn’t mislead you. It’s not to say that you can’t get good steel there, Amazon does have some counterfeit things being sold.
Someone recommended Jantz. They are really good too. I do get some things from them but I like the NJSteel Barons steel better.
Alpha Knife Supply is another place I get some things from.

You have done an amazing job, especially for your first knife! That is awesome!
Love the shape and love drop points.


Honestly 1084 is a good steel when not using a kiln.
I would say to work with that and get good with that, then possibly move on if you want to continue with it.
It gets a bad rap because it’s an easy steel to work with and it’s not stainless….
Some really good makers continue to make knives out of 1084.
My knife I’ve been using the last three years has processed four or five deer from field dressing to skinning and quartering and has only been sharpened three times.

1095 is good but a little more temperamental with its heat treat.
I’ve gotten some good hardness out of it without a kiln, but I’m never 100 % sure it’s properly done.

With 1084 I’ve had more consistent success with it and it doesn’t require specific soak recipes.
I get it to non magnetic and try and let it soak there for about five minutes.
I not sure what oil you’re using, I used to use canola oil to quench in until I invested in some parks 50, and what a difference that made!
Since I have been using that the file just skates off the blade every time.
I started with a charcoal smoky Joe and used lump charcoal in the beginning.
I made some very good knives that way.
I do use a small gas forge now as it’s a little easier and less messy.

I’ve tried some 52100, but the soak time is rather specific with it being 15 minutes at around 1465-1480, and without a kiln that’s hard to tell if it’s happening. The knife seems hardened, but I’m not sure to the extent that takes advantage of the quality of the steel.
Looking forward to seeing your kydex sheath. I’ve never done one.
I use leather for mine.

IMG_7788.jpeg
 

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