Yeti GOBOX Collection

Learning to build a rifle

My dad and a gunsmith coworker built my rifle in the machine shop at Hungry Horse Dam back in 1962. It's pretty much the only gun I have used for big game since I was old enough to hunt two years later. I just realized today that the only thing that has not been replaced or modified since they finished it is the bolt and receiver. First to go was the 4x Bushnell Banner. That piece of crap is probably still laying at the bottom of a mountain where I tossed it as hard as possible the fall of 1972. Dad gave me a Weaver K3 for Christmas. Two years ago I replaced it with a Nikon 3x9. Nothing wrong with the K3, I just wanted clearer glass. Next to bite the bullet (pun intended) was the crappy roll over cheekpiece "world famous Belgian" Herters stock dad put on it. My horse rolled on me and broke it in half circa 1980. Les Bauska in Kalispell made me a good deal on a nice unfinished semi-inleted stock. Military rifles require the bolt being bent to accommodate a scope. The tricky part about fitting a stock is getting that bolt channel correct. No two bolts will be bent the same so every channel is a total custom job. I'm still amazed at the close tolerance I achieved with just a round rasp and sandpaper. The new stock of course had to be bedded, something I'd never done before. The military sling Dad left on it bit the dust a few years later one snowy evening when I fell asleep next to a fire on the trail in to Shaeffer Meadows. I awoke to the smell of burning flesh. Not my own thankfully but the rifle's leather sling was a write off. Nothing more added or changed until fairly recently. The Nikon scope has a relatively short neck which required that I modify one of Dad's Weaver bases. I stretched the channel in the forward base for the long screw that tightens the rings onto base. It worked but awful tight. At the same time I replaced trigger guard/magazine plate. This late model A3 had a stamped plate with pillar sleeve pressed into it. The sleeve came loose. This past year I acquired offset bases and did away with modified ones. Also this past year I replaced the barrel. The original was a late production 2 land with significant wear to rifling and some corrosion half way up the bore. That required a gunsmith removing the old barrel (which was not easy) and setting the head space (matching the bolt/receiver to the new barrel). That cost $150 (Canadian). Then I had to rebed the new barrel into stock right before leaving for Africa. Unfortunately, the action came loose from bedding while I was over there. Apparently the epoxy shrank when fully cured. When bedding it again after returning from Africa, I decided to add a Timney trigger. This required modifying the Buhller(sp) striker safety Dad and Earl put in it. But what a great modification! That trigger makes a world of difference. The fore end's spring loaded sling swivel that I installed after the fire on the trail fell apart when I was sorting out the barrel bedding. Replaced with something sturdier.

With the possible exception of setting the head space, bending the bolt, and blueing, everything else can be done by a mere mortal who's not a gunsmith. As you can see from above comments of others, there are ways around even those exceptions. Have fun making your heirloom.
 
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A "build" means different things to different people.

To some it may mean swapping the stock & adding a bipod or some other accessory.
To others, machining is involved.

Be aware, doing trigger work is something not to be taken lightly!

Some hate Savage, but with not much good reason.
Many shooting a factory Savage bench rest rifles are competitive enough to give the full on customs a hard time.
And they are easy to work on.
The biggest issue is the way the triggers are attached.
The ones that seem to hate on Savages the most, are the guys with custom actions, that don't do the work themselves, but send their work to certain "known" gunsmiths.

I have 3 Savage rifles that i've "built". Mostly rebarrel & aftermarket triggers and stocks.
With a "prefit" barrel, a barrel swap on a Savage takes litterally a matter of minutes in your basement.

My most involved build was my daughters rifle.
It started life as a straight bolt Spanish Mauser.
I planned the build & did all the work myself, except build the stock.
The safety was modified to a Model 70 Winchester type, and the bolt modifications for it were done in my basement with a Dremmel & files.
Trigger was swapped for a Timney.
The action face and bolt face were trued by me on a coworkers lathe.
I drilled & tapped the hole for a scope base.
Barrel was a "short chambered" 7X57 Mauser from E.R. Shaw. 22" sporter contour. Which i installed, and finish reamed to set the head spacing.
Stock is a purple Boyds AT-One that was finish inletted, & channel for bolt done by myself.
Then bedded the action with Devcon.
 
A "build" means different things to different people.

To some it may mean swapping the stock & adding a bipod or some other accessory.
To others, machining is involved.

Be aware, doing trigger work is something not to be taken lightly!

Some hate Savage, but with not much good reason.
Many shooting a factory Savage bench rest rifles are competitive enough to give the full on customs a hard time.
And they are easy to work on.
The biggest issue is the way the triggers are attached.
The ones that seem to hate on Savages the most, are the guys with custom actions, that don't do the work themselves, but send their work to certain "known" gunsmiths.

I have 3 Savage rifles that i've "built". Mostly rebarrel & aftermarket triggers and stocks.
With a "prefit" barrel, a barrel swap on a Savage takes litterally a matter of minutes in your basement.

My most involved build was my daughters rifle.
It started life as a straight bolt Spanish Mauser.
I planned the build & did all the work myself, except build the stock.
The safety was modified to a Model 70 Winchester type, and the bolt modifications for it were done in my basement with a Dremmel & files.
Trigger was swapped for a Timney.
The action face and bolt face were trued by me on a coworkers lathe.
I drilled & tapped the hole for a scope base.
Barrel was a "short chambered" 7X57 Mauser from E.R. Shaw. 22" sporter contour. Which i installed, and finish reamed to set the head spacing.
Stock is a purple Boyds AT-One that was finish inletted, & channel for bolt done by myself.
Then bedded the action with Devcon.
Agreed on messing with most factory triggers. My Springfield had a modification added to the trigger assembly that allowed the slack to be taken out. But adjusting the pull weight with it was tricky! Approaching anything desirable and the gun failed the drop test (slamming the butt on the floor to see if striker releases). My African hunting buddy is also a retired gunsmith. He found a bargain Timney trigger for the Springfield but quickly gave up trying to install it. Instructions called for modification to the striker if the bolt wouldn't close after installation ... and it wouldn't. He was not willing to tackle that and sent the rifle and trigger back to me. After looking it over carefully, it became clear to me that the problem was the aftermarket Bueler style wing safety Dad installed to provide scope relief. I think his coworker/gunsmith modified that safety so it would disengage when the bolt was opened. Very dangerous! The bolt would catch in my jacket pocket when I slung it on my left shoulder and release the safety. A take-up screw on top of the safety (it actually holds the safety in the housing) would lock the bolt when on safe if adjusted just right but eventually the screw would loosen and I'd be back to same problem. If over tightened, the safety wouldn't engage. Needless to say I kept a close eye on that safety over the years! Anyway, looking at the safety I was pretty sure I could see the modification to it that was needed to provide relief so the bolt would work and I got out the Dremel tool. Figured if I screwed it up I'd order the new model Timney trigger for Springfield which has a trigger block safety included so the striker one can be tossed. Obviously a much safer setup anyway as it undoubtedly allows the bolt to be opened on safe and two position Bueler striker safety does not. Also no need to fiddle with modifying the striker to install it. I not only fixed the obstruction that was blocking bolt closure but also took care of the auto safety release issue. Trigger, bolt, and safety now work flawlessly. Someday I probably will change to the other style trigger and safety before I hand the gun down to my grandson. It would be a better setup for uninitiated. Down the road if that striker safety causes me one second more grief it will go down the road.

The moral of the story is if you don't have the ability to think seriously outside the box, be wary of tackling trigger or safety modifications. ALWAYS follow up with drop test ... multiple times ... even if a gunsmith does the work.
 
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A "build" means different things to different people.

To some it may mean swapping the stock & adding a bipod or some other accessory.
To others, machining is involved.

Be aware, doing trigger work is something not to be taken lightly!

Some hate Savage, but with not much good reason.
Many shooting a factory Savage bench rest rifles are competitive enough to give the full on customs a hard time.
And they are easy to work on.
The biggest issue is the way the triggers are attached.
The ones that seem to hate on Savages the most, are the guys with custom actions, that don't do the work themselves, but send their work to certain "known" gunsmiths.

I have 3 Savage rifles that i've "built". Mostly rebarrel & aftermarket triggers and stocks.
With a "prefit" barrel, a barrel swap on a Savage takes litterally a matter of minutes in your basement.

My most involved build was my daughters rifle.
It started life as a straight bolt Spanish Mauser.
I planned the build & did all the work myself, except build the stock.
The safety was modified to a Model 70 Winchester type, and the bolt modifications for it were done in my basement with a Dremmel & files.
Trigger was swapped for a Timney.
The action face and bolt face were trued by me on a coworkers lathe.
I drilled & tapped the hole for a scope base.
Barrel was a "short chambered" 7X57 Mauser from E.R. Shaw. 22" sporter contour. Which i installed, and finish reamed to set the head spacing.
Stock is a purple Boyds AT-One that was finish inletted, & channel for bolt done by myself.
Then bedded the action with Devcon.
Originally the Springfield was glass bedded to the end of the stock. Per instructions from my gunsmith buddy I removed barrel bedding down to about two inches above the receiver. Should I remove those last two inches so only the action is bedded?
 
Originally the Springfield was glass bedded to the end of the stock. Per instructions from my gunsmith buddy I removed barrel bedding down to about two inches above the receiver. Should I remove those last two inches so only the action is bedded?
Depends..

How's it shoot?
 
Some hate Savage, but with not much good reason.
Many shooting a factory Savage bench rest rifles are competitive enough to give the full on customs a hard time.
And they are easy to work on.
The biggest issue is the way the triggers are attached.
The ones that seem to hate on Savages the most, are the guys with custom actions, that don't do the work themselves, but send their work to certain "known" gunsmiths.
I don't hate savage and have a 12BR that is lights out at 600y-1000y, but I do not like their action's tendency to bind with even the slightest downward pressure while sliding the bolt forward - I prefer the Tikka action by a mile.
 
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When you get into the 0.3" groups, you'll know your onto something!
;)
I'm sure a lead sled would get that group down to 1" or less. I'm only using this gun to shoot animals and typically at very close (12 yrds!) to moderate range. Don't need to shoot them through the eye. 😉 Some place in the boiler room will do fine. For a deer that's a target about the size of a beach ball. Sub MOA would be nice I guess but it's kinda overkill for my purpose. Here it is. Since Dad built it in 1962 everything but the receiver and bolt has either been replaced (stock, scope, barrel, trigger, magazine/trigger guard) or modified (safety). The replacement barrel came with high ramp front sight. I'm picking up a rear peep sight that can be mounted on rear scope base for backup in case scope goes south in the field (again). I added the hood to slotted front sight for my trip to Africa. Every bwana White Hunter MUST have a hood on his Africa gun's front sight! A hunting magazine editor once told me a hood is essential to protect the sight from getting knocked off in a fall. I think if a hunter fell hard enough to move a dovetailed front sight, his trip would be over anyway. Not much game running around in a hospital.20211114_083339.jpgThough no beauty queen, this well worn old Springfield is still easy on the eyes. What stories it would tell if it could talk. Glad I can keep it alive.
 
When you get into the 0.3" groups, you'll know your onto something!
;)
Actually, it seems I greatly underestimated the group size. Checking through my photo gallery I found an image of a target shot at the range after returning from Africa and rebedding the rifle. Forgot targets at home so I had to scavenge one someone left behind. The holes with X were previous shooter's (clearly a smaller caliber). Four shots in the tight group and then the last one high is after corrective adjustments to scope. No need to waste more precious ammo! Guess I skipped the coffee that morning.
Edit: The makeshift target of electricians tape stapled behind was for getting the rifle zeroed after rebedding.
20210901_181351_resized.jpg
And below is a target before barrel was changed and Timney trigger added. It would have still hit a deer at 100 yrds and probably also 200 yrds ... somewhere in its body. At 300 yrds I might have been able to hit a Kenworth truck.20210813_113041.jpg
 
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A lead sled will help you not at all!
Actually they help induce bad shooting habits.
Definitely no plans to put out that kind of money just to get a gun sighted in for shooting deer at 20-250 yards. I suppose for some crazy character who thinks he should be shooting animals at 700 yards a lead sled might have some use. Important to know when minor 100 yard group variations are due to equipment or due to shooter.
 
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