Addicting
Well-known member
Just the threads on the breach. As far as the bore goes I just use a light gun oil after cleaning, then hit it with a paper towel on a jig.
Hasn’t failed in 20+ years.
Introduction to Muzzleloading
- Thread starter Irrelevant
- Start date
Just the threads on the breach. As far as the bore goes I just use a light gun oil after cleaning, then hit it with a paper towel on a jig.
Hasn’t failed in 20+ years.
This.
WildWill
Well-known member
I was originally told to coat your barrel in bore butter before storing it. This was misinformation and caused more problems then it ever solved. @Addicting has it right a little on the breech plug is all thats needed and sense the invention of speed breeches isn't even as important. The only other use for lube is if you moved to shooting a round ball or Maxi ball ammo in a more traditional gun but that's about it for in line's.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
Ok so lube is needed for the traditional setup
Addicting
Well-known member
Still no, you can get maxi balls pre lubed. Otherwise just shoot any of the hundreds of other projectiles available.
For what you have already bought just get some breech plug grease and you are good to go.
BrentD
Well-known member
You will need lube for the grooved bullets like above and for the patches of a patched round ball load. In bore butter or wonderlube work just fine for that But you can get everything prelude if you wish. Regular gun oil in your barrel between trips to the range is fine, but wipe it out before you load.
David58
Well-known member
After cleaning my muzzleloaders, I run a patch well coated with bore butter down the barrel. No issues, but admittedly my habit may have to change when I move from NM to ID.
David
NM
Irrelevant
Well-known member
Ok, none of you told me that powder and primers were going to cost more and be harder to find than factory rifle ammo. I've dropped more on them and the accessories to clean them up, than I did on the gun!
BrentD
Well-known member
You should have bought a flint lock. Blackpowder is dead simple to find, as are rocks.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
well shit. Glad I read through this thread before giving an update. I forgot about this little nugget.
I found almost zero time to mess with this at all. I likely won't hunt with it even though I picked up mz tags for deer and elk here in WA. I messed around with both the bore drivers and the powerbelts. Boredrivers seem to be the ticket. However, my puny shoulder can only take about 10 shots before I tap out. And I used most of those trying to get the damn sight adjusted.
Matthew57
Well-known member
Haha. Good reminder I need to go shoot the muzzy and make sure everything is dialed and ready to go. I’m also doing muzzy deer and elk, good luck out there.
BrentD
Well-known member
Another good reason to switch to the Holy Black. I strongly recommend Swiss Black powder.
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Irrelevant
Well-known member
@brent, are you a preacher?
BrentD
Well-known member
Irrelevant
Well-known member
... I've noticedOnly when it comes to firearms.
And golden retrievers.
Matthew57
Well-known member
My kinda guy.Only when it comes to firearms.
And golden retrievers.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
Ok. After several range days I've settled on:
100 gr Black Horn
Fed 209m primers
340 gr Hornady Bore Driver
5 wacks with the rod
Here are my last two shots at 100 yards. Statistically irrelevant, but my shoulder was done.
100 gr Black Horn
Fed 209m primers
340 gr Hornady Bore Driver
5 wacks with the rod
Here are my last two shots at 100 yards. Statistically irrelevant, but my shoulder was done.
Caseknife
Well-known member
That will whack something for sure. What do you figure your max range is?
Irrelevant
Well-known member
If I have to free hand about 50 yards. If I can get a rest, the scope has a dial, so once I get some more trigger time I should be able to answer that more authoritatively, but I doubt it'll be over 200. Shit, I can't hardly see that dot at 100 yards, middle of the day.
WildWill
Well-known member
Looks good! But I gotta ask what do you mean by "5 whacks with the rod"? Where you referring to shooting 5 times or having to whack the bullet with the ramrod while loading? You shouldn't need to whack or hammer on the rod to seat your bullet just apply firm pressure till you feal it seat. Once you have a load chosen put the ramrod down the loaded barrel and mark the rod so that you have a reference to check that it's properly seated each time. Some guys just notch the rod with there knife but I use a thin strip of duct tape so if I change loads just peel it off and add a new one.
