Help please! F150 ignition issue

[Sagebrush1]

2000 F-150, manual, 2WD, no tilt column.

So my son’s truck had this issue:

Key will turn to the first position, but stops dead. It won’t go to Start. Also, when in the first position, the warning chime will sound with the door open, but no dash lights or gauges get power.

It just feels like the lock won’t turn, but it’s strange that there is no power to the dash.

I can’t get the lock cylinder out because we can’t turn the key far enough. No fuse issues that I could find.


Any ideas? Ignition switch on the column?

 

[Bsquad]

Is the steering wheel locked all the way in one direction?

 

[Dave N]

Is the steering wheel locked all the way in one direction?

Yeah, try turning the wheel back and forth while trying the key.

 

[Dsnow9]

Is it in gear? Only time I have seen that my co worker had left the truck in drive.

 

[Sagebrush1]

wheel is not locked, it’s a manual so not in gear.

 

[grizzly_]

Try the spare key. When that happened to my brother's 1999 F-150 that fixed it.

 

[WYWINCHESTER]

Move the lock and or key in and out while turning. My old truck had to have the lock pushed in to turn.

 

[turbobrick]

Try the spare key. When that happened to my brother's 1999 F-150, it was the security chip (or battery) in the key. He tried everything and ultimately tried the spare key and it worked great.

The anti-theft transponder in your brother's truck (and the transponders in just about every other car built, ever), will not, and cannot, prevent the ignition from physically turning. The spare key worked because it was less worn or was more correctly cut than the key he was using that stopped working.

OP, will the key turn back to the off position? The Ford's of that era usually are pretty reliable lock wise, but they do have all kinds of problems with the linkage in the steering column and its adjustment related to the lock cylinder and electronic switch. If the key will come all the way back to off and can be removed from the cylinder, then I would assume the failure is in the lock. I would buy a new OEM lock, have a local locksmith key it to your existing keys, then you'll have to force/drill the old ignition to the position where you can depress the detent and remove it from the column. Typically I will cut a non-transponder all brass key from the current key, cut off the head, then stick the business end in the ignition, turn the lock over with a screwdriver with wrench flats and a wrench, poke detent, remove lock, then install the new one.

 

[tzone]

Try it with the truck in neutral. (N)

 

[Sagebrush1]

The anti-theft transponder in your brother's truck (and the transponders in just about every other car built, ever), will not, and cannot, prevent the ignition from physically turning. The spare key worked because it was less worn or was more correctly cut than the key he was using that stopped working.

OP, will the key turn back to the off position? The Ford's of that era usually are pretty reliable lock wise, but they do have all kinds of problems with the linkage in the steering column and its adjustment related to the lock cylinder and electronic switch. If the key will come all the way back to off and can be removed from the cylinder, then I would assume the failure is in the lock. I would buy a new OEM lock, have a local locksmith key it to your existing keys, then you'll have to force/drill the old ignition to the position where you can depress the detent and remove it from the column. Typically I will cut a non-transponder all brass key from the current key, cut off the head, then stick the business end in the ignition, turn the lock over with a screwdriver with wrench flats and a wrench, poke detent, remove lock, then install the new one.

This is good info. Thanks so much!!

The key does turn back and come out.

 

[turbobrick]

This is good info. Thanks so much!!

The key does turn back and come out.

Best of luck, if you were closer I'd do it for you. You're local locksmith will be able to handle it for you if you don't want to take it on, just don't accept anything but OEM parts, Strattec/Motorcraft.

 

[MarvB]

^^^ this! Been there with my 2008 F150, same prob with tooth wear.

 

[hank4elk]

Tip, do not keep your one vehicle key on a giant key ring with all your other keys. It will wear out the switch and the key teeth.

 

[Addicting]

I was really hoping this was a thread on how to ignite a Ford.

 

[KB_]

one word of advice with fords, Try to keep your keys lightweight and not have a bunch of stuff on your key ring, That reduces the life of the ignition cylinder and the teeth inside. Really sucks when its stuck and you can turn it off. Or if it gets stuck on start, Quite a grinding situation.

 

[Sagebrush1]

Best of luck, if you were closer I'd do it for you. You're local locksmith will be able to handle it for you if you don't want to take it on, just don't accept anything but OEM parts, Strattec/Motorcraft.

Turbobrick,
I sent you a PM with one more question.

 

[Sagebrush1]

So we had time yesterday to sit down and go over the situation.
It turns out this all started when my son tried to start the truck and the wheel was locked. He just pulled on it really hard, heard a “snap”, and now the wheel turns but the key won’t.

So I’m now assuming that the mechanism that locks the wheel is engaged, but broken off in place. I just can’t find anything that tells me what that part is or how it works. I’m great mechanically, but I would like to know where to start.

 

[Elkmagnet]

So we had time yesterday to sit down and go over the situation.
It turns out this all started when my son tried to start the truck and the wheel was locked. He just pulled on it really hard, heard a “snap”, and now the wheel turns but the key won’t.

So I’m now assuming that the mechanism that locks the wheel is engaged, but broken off in place. I just can’t find anything that tells me what that part is or how it works. I’m great mechanically, but I would like to know where to start.

You are on the right track. I have had luck jacking the front off the ground in similar situations.
But the "snap" means you are going to need to open the column and find what broke.

 

[Huntkook]

If it's not going into all positions it might just be a bad ignition switch.

 

[Sagebrush1]

Well with some persistence, advice from here, and a little cussing, I got the key to turn! So I took the cylinder out, cleaned it up and re-installed, so that is good.

However….now when driving there is a definite catch in the wheel when turning past (what I assume is) the lock positions. I don’t feel safe having my son drive it this way so I need to keep digging. I don’t understand how it locks enough to decide if it’s safe or not.

For the life of me can’t find an exploded view with a legend so I can see what I need to do. I even went and bought a shop manual, but no luck. I’m assuming I need to go into the column.

Where can I find a labeled diagram?