Help me build a rifle

[Jmorton1]

I'd do 25 creed and find someone unknown or another business to load me 133-135 Bergers

 

[std7mag]

Depending on where jpc lives, I could be that huckleberry.
Would definitely need some measurements before that happens though.

 

[The_Coloradoboy]

Appreciate all the replies. I don’t reload (yet) so am stuck with factory ammo for now. But have always had good luck with ELD-X so would likely lean that way unless something proprietary like 7 backcountry

The 7bc just isn’t the move… as a factory ammo shooter your best options are the 22, 6 or 25 creedmoor for what you’re looking to do

 

[Agent82]

Do some research on the 25 creedmoor. Theres a reason why it’s becoming extremely popular on the NRL and PRS scene. I built one last year and hunted with it.. the 133 Berger EOL is flat nasty. Killed an antelope, two deer and an elk with it last year from 220 to 762 yards.

Im in the process of building a 25 creed now. What is your barrel length and what velocity are you getting with yours?

 

[jpc01101]

I don’t understand what is required to get a tikka action and a 25 creed barrel to work together? Does the action need to be worked over by a gunsmith?

 

[brymoore]

I don’t understand what is required to get a tikka action and a 25 creed barrel to work together? Does the action need to be worked over by a gunsmith?

You need to buy a tikka ready barrel in 25 creed. Simple explanation is the tikka ready barrel will screw onto your tikka action.

 

[17remhunter]

I’d like to build a long range tack driver that isn’t super duper heavy. Maybe like a 22 creed or 22 ARC? 7 backcountry with a short barrel intrigues me as well. Would like a chassis type stock that folds with a built in ARCA for tripod connection and maybe a small pic rail out front for a spartan mount for bipod. Thinking carbon barrel and will run suppressed. I hear people talk about buying Tikkas and putting on different barrels and stocks. Is that something I could do myself? I am fairly handy but not a gunsmith. I currently have a 6.5 prc browning xbolt speed and a Christensen ridgeline fft in 300 PRC.

Call TS Customs. They built me a tack driving 6mm Creedmoor. 22” really light everything I wanted. Walking hiking Hunting rifle. I’ve just started load development and this is what Im getting

 

[Agent82]

Call TS Customs. They built me a tack driving 6mm Creedmoor. 22” really light everything I wanted. Walking hiking Hunting rifle. I’ve just started load development and this is what Im getting

Nice shooting. I love my 6 creedmoor shooting 108 elite bergers. What bullets are you shooting?

 

[Chingon]

Do you just want to shoot out past 1,000 yds, or are you wanting something lethal on big game out to 1,000 yds?

No reason to swap any barrels IMO. My 18" Tikka 6.5 Creed is lethal out to 800 yds at my altitude with reloads. Factory ammo is definitely enough to shoot out to 1,000 yds. This is the easy button in my opinion. I have nearly every caliber in Tikkas from 7PRC down to 223 and they all do basically the same thing. I sure enjoy shooting my 6mm's and below though compared to my lightweight 7PRC...

 

[Sheltowee]

Do you just want to shoot out past 1,000 yds, or are you wanting something lethal on big game out to 1,000 yds?

No reason to swap any barrels IMO. My 18" Tikka 6.5 Creed is lethal out to 800 yds at my altitude with reloads. Factory ammo is definitely enough to shoot out to 1,000 yds. This is the easy button in my opinion. I have nearly every caliber in Tikkas from 7PRC down to 223 and they all do basically the same thing. I sure enjoy shooting my 6mm's and below though compared to my lightweight 7PRC...

You're not wrong, but the quarterbore is significantly cooler than a dirty 6.5 (I have a ridiculously accurate 6.5 Creed that got me into precision shooting).

I'd load the 95gr. HHTs doing around 3300 in the 25 Creed, then go out and stack up game.

 

[jpc01101]

Sorry in advance for the dumb questions. I think I'd like to build a 25 creed. What caliber and model of tikka to buy as a donor for the action? also what barrel would folks recommend? And I also want to change the stock to something light and folding with built in area, etc.

 

[Sheltowee]

Sorry in advance for the dumb questions. I think I'd like to build a 25 creed. What caliber and model of tikka to buy as a donor for the action? also what barrel would folks recommend? And I also want to change the stock to something light and folding with built in area, etc.

Any Tikka T3x in 6.5 Creed would make an ideal donor action. I'd buy the cheapest base model I could find and go from there. PSA has them at $716 right now.

I'm a big fan of Lilja steel barrels but have been thrilled by a Carbon Six I just had put on 25-6.5PRC. If you want to go lightweight, go carbon-wrapped.

I don't use a folding chassis but have been very happy with the Pure Precision carbon fiber stocks. You might take a look at those. The Peak 44 Bastions look pretty interesting, as well.

 

[Chingon]

Sorry in advance for the dumb questions. I think I'd like to build a 25 creed. What caliber and model of tikka to buy as a donor for the action? also what barrel would folks recommend? And I also want to change the stock to something light and folding with built in area, etc.

anything with a standard bolt face. I recommend a 6.5 creed or 1:8 twist 243 since those barrels will sell for about $100. Preferred barrel blanks for a 25 Creed prefit.

 

[brymoore]

My son converted his T3 270 to a 280ai. Excalibur prefit tikka barrel. He was 18 at the time. Relatively easy. New barrel shoot very good.

 

[Chingon]

Any Tikka T3x in 6.5 Creed would make an ideal donor action. I'd buy the cheapest base model I could find and go from there. PSA has them at $716 right now.

I'm a big fan of Lilja steel barrels but have been thrilled by a Carbon Six I just had put on 25-6.5PRC. If you want to go lightweight, go carbon-wrapped.

I don't use a folding chassis but have been very happy with the Pure Precision carbon fiber stocks. You might take a look at those. The Peak 44 Bastions look pretty interesting, as well.

I disagree with carbon. Weights are about the same and they hold heat more. Carbon six orders are about one year out.

I have a couple proof and a carbon six barrels on tikkas and will go exclusively back to slim profile steel in the future. Just as light and much cheaper.

 

[jpc01101]

I disagree with carbon. Weights are about the same and they hold heat more. Carbon six orders are about one year out.

I have a couple proof and a carbon six barrels on tikkas and will go exclusively back to slim profile steel in the future. Just as light and much cheaper.

So I have an xbolt that is a tack driver without a suppressor but the can seems to mess up the harmonics of the skinny steel barrel (not to mention a 3.5MOA POI change). Meanwhile on my Christensen with or without can, zero POI impact difference at 200 yds. I say this to ask, is this a concern with the slimmer steel barrels?

 

[Sheltowee]

I disagree with carbon. Weights are about the same and they hold heat more. Carbon six orders are about one year out.

I have a couple proof and a carbon six barrels on tikkas and will go exclusively back to slim profile steel in the future. Just as light and much cheaper.

That's fair. I should say: "if you want a stiffer barrel at roughly the same weight as a slim steel, go carbon." I was able to get a pretty good deal on a 7.5-twist 25-cal that had been sitting on their shelf too long.

 

[brymoore]

So I have an xbolt that is a tack driver without a suppressor but the can seems to mess up the harmonics of the skinny steel barrel (not to mention a 3.5MOA POI change). Meanwhile on my Christensen with or without can, zero POI impact difference at 200 yds. I say this to ask, is this a concern with the slimmer steel barrels?

Suppressors normally change point of impact about 3”. My rifle shoots a better MOA with the Suppresor. Skinny Kimber barrel.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

That's fair. I should say: "if you want a stiffer barrel at roughly the same weight as a slim steel, go carbon." I was able to get a pretty good deal on a 7.5-twist 25-cal that had been sitting on their shelf too long.

I dont believe that has been measurably true either.

Only people i've seen with results actually measuring deflection are alex wheeler and the Alterra arms guys. Both found sporter steel barrels that weighed roughly the same as carbons had roughly the same stiffness.

Carbon barrels are a racket IMO.

 

[Wind Gypsy]

So I have an xbolt that is a tack driver without a suppressor but the can seems to mess up the harmonics of the skinny steel barrel (not to mention a 3.5MOA POI change). Meanwhile on my Christensen with or without can, zero POI impact difference at 200 yds. I say this to ask, is this a concern with the slimmer steel barrels?

I dont think so. I'm not sure what the issue is with the browning but could be a lot of things beyond just being a thin profile. I'm pretty sure the tikka lite profile is at least as thin as the browning sporter profile and there's a bunch of good shooting suppressed rifles out there.