I would shoot your old arrows through paper to see what you get. So what’s your arrow and bow setup? If you think you’re close on spine, drop point weight and see what you get. When I first upped my arrow weight I fought poor arrow flight. Chased my tail all summer and just hunted with them. Dropped two spines the next year and they flew like darts.
Heavy arrow tuning struggles
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LuketheDog
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Irrelevant
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Irrelevant
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If that answer is grip, then I need to stop bow hunting because I can't hold that bow better...
I can’t imagine you’re too far off on spine but I would still drop 50 grains or so in point weight to see what it does
Mighty Mouse
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FWIW qSpine/OT2Go says 300 would be "optimal" at the assumed specs listed below. Like any spine chart/calculator though, it's just giving an estimate, not a hard-and-fast rule for good arrow flight...the proof is always in the pudding.
Bow specs: 335 fps IBO, 70# DW, 28" DL, 31" ATA, 7" BH, 80% LO
Arrow specs: 28" C2C, 125 gr head, 90 gr insert, 9 gr nock, 3 vanes at 7 gr each
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Irrelevant
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Update: I made zero progress last night. It was FUGGIN' hot so I took the canoe out in an attempt to catch one of the record number of sockeye in the Columbia, just about got swept downstream, frantically slapped the water for what felt like forever to get back to the dock, tied off on a nearby willow, tried to drink a beer but spilled it all while trying to keep the hordes of mosquitoes at bay, called it quits, went home, went to bed... I'll try harder tonight.
TrumpkinTheDwarf
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Man, just when I think us trad guys have it rough, the compound crowd starts talking about their tuning issues. In trad, the first rule is YOU are the problem. The second rule is YOU are STILL the problem. The third rule is to shoot bareshafts till your head spins, while feverishly raising and lowering your brace height till you melt down and throw the bow at your target. Usually that helps and the bareshafts fly pretty straight the next day.
A very weak arrow could cause those paper tears though. As could a trigger punching, grip choker. Or a loose screw on your arrow rest... an out of spec string... too much face pressure. Actually, I'd probably check that last one first.
A very weak arrow could cause those paper tears though. As could a trigger punching, grip choker. Or a loose screw on your arrow rest... an out of spec string... too much face pressure. Actually, I'd probably check that last one first.
El Jason
Well-known member
Or slightly cocking your wrist on your release arm.
Rifles and compounds are similar. We are the weak link more often than people want to admit. This is in no way directed at neffa, just a general statement
It's probably something about the way you shoot that bow that makes the heavier arrow wonky. You can try and change the way you shoot, but seems like it's worked until now. Buying a new bow seems impractical. Leaves the arrow. Could try and nock tune the arrows you have (apologies if you already have tried that and I missed it). Or you could try a different arrow. Or a different point weight.
But I definitely sympathize. I just want an arrow that doesn't bonk off an ungulate, why does it have to be so complicated?
But I definitely sympathize. I just want an arrow that doesn't bonk off an ungulate, why does it have to be so complicated?
grizzly63
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Stop looking at the paper, tune your broadheads to your field points. If you cant do that, bow's out of tune or your spine is way off. Go heavier and lighter, see what happens. Good luck. You'll find that sweet spot.
Irrelevant
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So fall of 2021 I shot two bulls and didn't recover them. One of them I got almost zero penetration, like 2", which led me down the ranch fairy rabbit hole, and which eventually led to to this thread. Later in 2022 I shot a bull in WY and... didn't recover. Again, not nearly enough penetration. That caused me to simply abandon archery.
However, 4 years later, and I do really miss Sept archery elk. So I applied for, and drew, and ID archery elk tag. Picking the bow back up and what do you know, this issue didn't self resolve over 4 years.
I don't think there's any issue with the bow cams are timed correctly per their manufacturer specs.
There isn't anything wrong with the rest (ripcord).
The grip isn't the issue.
I'm simply getting shitty inconsistent flight.
I think I'm going to go back to a slightly lighter arrow. drop the inserts, impact collars, and stupid single bevel bullshit.
I'm also not going to build them myself. I've never been a super high quality builder of anything, and I just don't trust me.
Recommendations for arrows? For threads I missed in the last couple of years? Any other useful tools out there I should know about?
And yes, I did think about buying GH's bow. But Bozeman ain't exactly just down the street.
However, 4 years later, and I do really miss Sept archery elk. So I applied for, and drew, and ID archery elk tag. Picking the bow back up and what do you know, this issue didn't self resolve over 4 years.
I don't think there's any issue with the bow cams are timed correctly per their manufacturer specs.
There isn't anything wrong with the rest (ripcord).
The grip isn't the issue.
I'm simply getting shitty inconsistent flight.
I think I'm going to go back to a slightly lighter arrow. drop the inserts, impact collars, and stupid single bevel bullshit.
I'm also not going to build them myself. I've never been a super high quality builder of anything, and I just don't trust me.
Recommendations for arrows? For threads I missed in the last couple of years? Any other useful tools out there I should know about?
And yes, I did think about buying GH's bow. But Bozeman ain't exactly just down the street.
Forkyfinder
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Ive had really good luck with altra arrows.
Part of me thinks you might have a form issue - at the unintended risk of insulting your manhood - have you thought about turning the bow down? It would help with your existing arrows if you have a spine issue, either way.
I will say with those paper tears and inconsistencies with flight it’s cam timing, cam lean and/or needing some rest adjustments.
As for arrows I think it’s really hard to go wrong with an Easton axis. They’re easily available, tough and been around for a long time
As for arrows I think it’s really hard to go wrong with an Easton axis. They’re easily available, tough and been around for a long time
Irrelevant
Well-known member
I don't think so. I used to be pretty money with a different setup, and in 2022 I had several people watch me shoot to try to help me identify any flaws. They didn't see any.
I had not, but that is a good idea.
You said you don't have a shop in town. Is there one in another town? Might be worth making a trip somewhere to have someone who works on bows regularly take a look.
If you couldn't figure it out 4 years ago it may be save you a bunch of time and frustration. Plus if your bow has sat that long might be good to have the strings and other items looked over. Also a fresh set of eyes couldn't hurt.
If you couldn't figure it out 4 years ago it may be save you a bunch of time and frustration. Plus if your bow has sat that long might be good to have the strings and other items looked over. Also a fresh set of eyes couldn't hurt.
My best guess without seeing it in person is you have a cam lean issue. I don’t believe those bows have a yoke so you will have to shim the cams to get it corrected. Your setup doesn’t seem under spined, assuming the rest is also set up correctly, and you don’t have any fletching contact.
I have had similar issues and have come to terms that it's something with how I shoot the bow. I bought a new/old stock Prime inline 5 this year and could not get it to tune with 28" 250 spine easton sonics with 170 grains up front. I broke down and bought the shim kit to shim the cams to the left and it was instantly better.
