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Canceled weekend...Bearing Edition

How old is the vehicle? I do all my work on my 2007 silverado... But it's getting rusty to the point where I need to expect to break bolts...
 
I agree the labor shouldn't be much harder than a brake job. Most guys can do it.
Although the oem hub/bearing is a much better part and worth the cost difference.
If you think about where that hub could leave you stranded and what trips it could ruin. Personally a warranty doesn't mean squat to me. I'd buy the best dam part available.
Just my $0.02
 
I did way too many of these on my ford ranger. If you aren't fitting rust it isn't bad.
 
If you haven’t already done the job, be sure to depower the electronic power steering rack. I got lucky but you can fry the rack by hitting the ball joints to hard. Found that little gem of info (after I was done) in a 4wd forum and it was not mentioned anywhere else I researched
 
I’d pull the wheels the night before and soak everything with penetrating oil.
And have a slide hammer or BACC (Big Assed Cold Chisel) ready. Even after you get the bolts out, the hub can be rusted in pretty hard.
I presoak everything in PB Blaster the night before. I try to get some in from the axle side too.

Did my ex daughter in law's mommy van a few months ago. You would have thought those hubs were in a deuce and a half.
 
Grease em up good with high temp. With the f150, if you haven't replaced the ball joints and tierods, odds are good they'll be needing it soon...
 
As others have said, loosen axle nut either on the ground or with someone holding brakes. Don't be afraid of beating the hell out of old hub if it's stuck a bit, you don't need it. I've never had an issue, I've done 2 shitloads of them on different trucks and SUV's. If you need some penetrating oil the best around is 50-50 tranny oil and acetone. Mix it in a whatever and put it in a plastic squirt bottle. I've been using it since I heard about it years ago.
 
Did you use a little anti seize when you installed the new ones? Any trips to urgent care?
I used a little but the only issue with the whole process was the brake rotors getting stuck. The passenger side required me to remove the hub with rotors then I sprayed with PB Blaster overnight. Didn't work so I put the hub face down on a chunk of wood and convinced the rotor free with a dead blow hammer. In hindsight I should have just done brakes too. These new hubs have a coating so there isn't any metal to metal contact.

Only injuries were from pulling the 4x4 vacuum hose loose and banging my hand into a bolt
 
I used a little but the only issue with the whole process was the brake rotors getting stuck. The passenger side required me to remove the hub with rotors then I sprayed with PB Blaster overnight. Didn't work so I put the hub face down on a chunk of wood and convinced the rotor free with a dead blow hammer. In hindsight I should have just done brakes too. These new hubs have a coating so there isn't any metal to metal contact.

Only injuries were from pulling the 4x4 vacuum hose loose and banging my hand into a bolt
My F150 had threaded holes in the rotors to use a "pusher" bolt to be turned in and pop off the rotors without beating.
 
When I did my f150, it was at about 75k miles too, but I had one that popped right off, the other one, not so much, but with an air chisel and a flat chisel, it didn't put up much of fight. While the bearing didn't take long to do, while I had everything pulled off, I found the ball joints were bad, so I bought those and did those while I was at it.
 
ROUND 2 Bearing Edition. Today we're replacing one under the 50k miles warranty (just over 6500 miles on the new ones)

In the frigid temps we had last month, I lost cruise, ABS, traction control, and park brake. Ford in Butte refused to help claiming a 4-6 week diagnosis appointment and possibly 2 weeks to fix the issue. Ford is quickly losing ground due to terrible support (as a previous GM guy I'm considering them when I decide to get a fuel economy car).

Got a FORscan to dive into the truck's computer. I fought with error codes and tracing what I perceived as an electrical problem to the ABS/Wheel Speed sensor. NAPA sent me a replacement ABS sensor. Replaced the sensor but no go and I got more codes (lost power steering and go wonky speeds) so back to NAPA. They ordered me a replacement wheel hub but said delivery date is TBD...right supply chain issues :rolleyes:

Not to be without a vehicle I had to do something. Luckily when I replaced both front wheel hubs in October and saved the "good one" for some reason. I replaced the faulty hub with the old used one and all errors went away. Got back from Boise yesterday with a message that my replacement wheel hub has arrived. Fun part is that now I've replaced the wheel hub multiple times I have it figured out. With a basic tool set, torque wrench and a beer I should be done in 30 minutes. I'm so over it
 
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