Brake Installation

[morgaj1]

I have a Tikka T3X in 300 Win Mag that I would like to install a brake on. Straight from the factory, shooting handloads, it is extremely accurate. I consistently get <0.5MOA with multiple different bullets and powders. I have a couple of different gunsmiths that I use. They seem competent and they both build custom rifles, but I have never used them for anything more than a simple repair. Would it be reasonable to have one of them thread and install a brake or would you recommend shipping it off to a reputable smith? I would like the reduced recoil, but certainly don't want to mess up the accuracy. Also, what brake would you recommend?

 

[cahunter805]

Most competent gunsmiths should have no problem threading your barrel and installing a muzzlebrake. You may have to tune your handloads a little but I haven’t seen anything drastic with accuracy from installing a muzzlebrake.
I prefer Muzzlebrakesandmore for a quality muzzlebrake.

 

[mtmuley]

If you are shooting handloads at 1/2 MOA, why the need for a brake? mtmuley

 

[morgaj1]

If you are shooting handloads at 1/2 MOA, why the need for a brake? mtmuley

This is my long range rifle and my 12yo son is wanting to learn to shoot at long ranges too. He shoots really well up to 30-06, but I don't want him to develop a flinch with the lightweight 300 WM.

 

[mtmuley]

I'd let him grow into it. Gonna shoot long range at critters, or just target? mtmuley

 

[morgaj1]

Range as practice for critters. We hunt whitetail and hogs locally, but take a couple of west hunts a year.

 

[bobbydean]

I would not damage a 12 year old's hearing with a brake.

 

[morgaj1]

I would not damage a 12 year old's hearing with a brake.

Good point, I hadn't thought of that.

 

[Losing_Sanity]

Muzzle breaks are great and work pretty well. But like most things there is a down side. Noise and gases are pushed back on the shooter. And depending on design, when shooting from the prone position, dust and dirt can be kicked up into the shooters face as well. Something to consider.

 

[mtmuley]

You said he can shoot the .30-06. The old .06 can stretch it out loaded correctly. mtmuley

 

[MTLabrador]

A 155 Scenar loaded moderately would make a great mild recoil .30-06 load for ringing steel at a distance.

 

[Doublecluck]

Send it to Snowy mountain rifles of Montana and have them put their brake on it. Obviously run ear protection when shooting a braked gun but really It goes without saying, just a good idea to always run ear protection shooting. All my kids are shooting braked guns.

 

[Wildabeest]

Have you put a Limbsaver recoil pad on it? I have the same rifle in 300WSM and the Limbsaver pad made a big difference in felt recoil.

 

[YoungGun]

Have you put a Limbsaver recoil pad on it? I have the same rifle in 300WSM and the Limbsaver pad made a big difference in felt recoil.

I'll second this- a 5 minute fix that made a considerable difference for my Tikka as well. It's the first thing I recommend to my friends when they buy a Tikka.

 

[1_pointer]

I would not damage a 12 year old's hearing with a brake.

Agreed! Also, lots of lighter recoiling cartridges can be used to teach a 12yo to shoot long. A properly twisted 243 or 6 Creedmoor would be easier and cheaper (per round) to shoot.

 

[Fire_9]

To answer your original question, just take it to either if the guys you know. Brake installs are simple.

The route you’re thinking of going will certainly work but I think there are better options. If you truly want your kid to learn and learn correctly, get a smaller caliber. Personally I’d pick up a fast twisted .223 and let him go to town.

 

[LaSportsman]

I use brakes but also wouldn't have a boy use one. Too easy to forget to put hearing protection back in at the range or before first shot (presuming range is empty). Look at .223, 6.5's, etc. or really learn the ballistics of 30-06, or some other solution.

Do you have a limbsaver or equivalent on the Tikka now?

 

[RemingtonRules]

A 12 year old needs a rifle that fits their stature and ability. They want to be like dad until they get stomped by recoil.

 

[buffybr]

Muzzle breaks are great and work pretty well. But like most things there is a down side. Noise and gases are pushed back on the shooter. And depending on design, when shooting from the prone position, dust and dirt can be kicked up into the shooters face as well. Something to consider.

I have KDF brakes on my .375 RUM and my .300 Wby, and I think that they work VERY well. These brakes have holes all around and yes, they do kick up dust and ground litter when I shoot them prone, which I do often. I like the KDF brakes because they are the same diameter as the barrel, but I think a brake with only side ports could also be made to the same diameter as the barrel.

I also have Limbsaver pads and in-stock mechanical or mercury recoil reducers in each of these rifles. I have taken each of these rifles on multiple international hunts and have shot multiple animals from prone positions with each of them.

With the KDF brake, my .300 Wby kicks less than my .308 Win (also a Vanguard), and I wouldn't shoot my .375 RUM without it's brake.

A local gunsmith had no problems installing both of these brakes.

 

[VikingsGuy]

Lots of good advice above about different gun for the 12 year old.

A quick way to temporarily install a brake on a rifle is the Witt Machine custom bolt on muzzle brake.

As for permanent threading for a brake or suppressor, the tikka barrels are usually too thin to have threaded for standard 5/8” threading with proper shoulder, and .308 too big to move to 1/2” threading. Obviously a smith can do permanent muzzle brake that solves for this, but wouldn’t be my first choice.