Anyone have wood floor experience?

Wood floor tip of the day don't let your spouse put engine oil on the floor cause it supposedly makes it clean but instead it'll sling you across the house through the kitchen and into a wall
 
A "crack" that has an elevation difference of 1" per side is a structural failure and it's going to telegraph through to the final floor surface regardless of the underlayment. If mud jacking is out of the budget and you're confident the foundation has stopped settling unevenly, then grind & self level. A walk behind floor grinder can be rented for $200 and then use a hand grinder to get the edges or corners. Carbide flail type walk behind floor grinders are 3x faster at removing bulk than the horizontal rotary diamond disc grinders. After knocking down the bulk elevation differences and thoroughly cleaning, move on to self leveling. Install a bulkhead and ball valve towards the bottom of a heavy duty 30 gallon trash can to dispense the self leveling compound. Put the trash can on a flat furniture dolly, mix the mud, crack the valve open and wheel it L-R , wall to wall in a "Z" pattern similar to applying paint with a roller. Have a helper using the notched side of an asphalt lute to distribute the compound as you go. But, I'd find out why the foundation cracked before I looked at installing new flooring.......
 
10" wide pine board like you originally said you wanted typically has to be top nailed or it will cup. Hard to acheive over concrete slab. You can glue it and blind nail through the tongue but it doesn't sound like you have T&G.

Engineered flooring like Mtmuley said is probably your best bet and the nicer stuff is thick enough it allows you to sand/refinish it a time or 2. Is your pine flooring milled with tongue and groove?

When we install wide planks we always push for cut nails, top nailed. Don't try to fake it or you are inviting trouble.
 
Schutzhund said:
10" wide pine board like you originally said you wanted typically has to be top nailed or it will cup. Hard to acheive over concrete slab. You can glue it and blind nail through the tongue but it doesn't sound like you have T&G.

Engineered flooring like Mtmuley said is probably your best bet and the nicer stuff is thick enough it allows you to sand/refinish it a time or 2. Is your pine flooring milled with tongue and groove?

When we install wide planks we always push for cut nails, top nailed. Don't try to fake it or you are inviting trouble.
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No the pine 1x10 is not t&g. After reading these comments I'm thinking of steering away from that idea a.d looking into engineered wood.
 
TrapperJ said:
Wood floor tip of the day don't let your spouse put engine oil on the floor cause it supposedly makes it clean but instead it'll sling you across the house through the kitchen and into a wall
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Engine oil!!! Probably got that from some YouTube idiot. Everyone knows you are supposed to use furniture polish for that.

Not to all: this is a joke. Don’t put engine oil or furniture polish on wood floors, especially stairs. Don’t ask me how I know. I just know.
 
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SAJ-99 said:
Engine oil!!! Probably got that from some YouTube idiot. Everyone knows you are supposed to use furniture polish for that.

Not to all: this is a joke. Don’t put engine oil or furniture polish on wood floors, especially stairs. Don’t ask me how I know. I just know.
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Yea, engine oil was a new one for me, but then again I see ads saying that you shouldn't eat fruits or vegetables, cuz they cause obesity...so...carry on.
 
SAJ-99 said:
Engine oil!!! Probably got that from some YouTube idiot. Everyone knows you are supposed to use furniture polish for that.

Not to all: this is a joke. Don’t put engine oil or furniture polish on wood floors, especially stairs. Don’t ask me how I know. I just know.
Click to expand...
Uh no it was a story I heard lol also bar n chain oil would probably work pretty well but if you really want some slippy action then we all know baby oil is the thing to use
 
Both used leveling compound and grinded. Grinding works but throws a LOT of dust. Dust that will seep into everything.
 
noharleyyet said:
We replaced 'real' with high end engineered...looks and maintains much better in our opinion.

As as for the OP's query, that slab fissure is gonna keep moving and screaming for attention.
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Ken, what brands do you prefer? Our kids are getting ready to replace their carpet with wood. Thanks much.
 
I can’t help with the foundation crack but…

Our office and master bedroom have real wood floors - they look amazing but we also have young kids. If they were one of the high traffic areas they would be wrecked.

The dining room and kitchen have some sort of engineered wood and it holds up to traffic really well but it doesn’t look as nice. House was built in 96 so I’m sure there are better options now.

I do appreciate our carpeted living room in the winter - the other floors are cold and it’s nice to have one room that it’s comfortable to be barefoot in.
 
longbow51 said:
Ken, what brands do you prefer? Our kids are getting ready to replace their carpet with wood. Thanks much.
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Make sure they get the highest quality flooring they can afford. Also, look for a veneer layer thick enough that the floor can be refinished if needed. Not all of them can be. mtmuley
 
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