Adult Onset Idiot
- Thread starter MTGomer
- Start date
If you are shooting sabots, DO NOT LUBE YOUR SABOTS. Sabots are designed to be shot right out of the package dry.
You will find the bullets that are sold with polymer bases attached generally load much easier than the separate sabot-bullet combo. However, the separate combo is known to produce tighter groups. Generally, the first load down a clean barrel in not problematic, however, loading on a 2nd-3rd shot non cleaned barrel can be difficult.
You will find the bullets that are sold with polymer bases attached generally load much easier than the separate sabot-bullet combo. However, the separate combo is known to produce tighter groups. Generally, the first load down a clean barrel in not problematic, however, loading on a 2nd-3rd shot non cleaned barrel can be difficult.
I never put bb on the actual sabot. Just a good wet patch of bb and then a dry patch thru was still enough to cause problems with sabots. If you're using lead conicals or round ball's then it's fine. Now I just use hoppies gun oil in my inline with sabot's. Bore butter says it will season a barrel great once again for lead but not for sabots.
I scratched a ring around the ramrod.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
How about this. Does anyone have any resources they'd recommend? YT channels, books, etc
Addicting
Well-known member
All your after is rust preventative, whatever light oil or even WD-40 you have is fine.
You do use anything as a lubricant with sabots.
The holes you see sprayed about on here are from Parker 300 gr
I have two more targets that look similar from the same bullets but different powder amounts.
The two damn near touching are the Remington bullets/sabots with 200 gr of 777. Why didn’t I try that the first time.
I have two more targets that look similar from the same bullets but different powder amounts.
The two damn near touching are the Remington bullets/sabots with 200 gr of 777. Why didn’t I try that the first time.
BAKPAKR
Well-known member
200 gr 777 - I used to think 120 grains was a lot!
Hem
Well-known member
This thread is funny.
BB is a treatment NOT a lubricant.
Wasn't hard to figure out in my camp.
BB is a treatment NOT a lubricant.
Wasn't hard to figure out in my camp.
Nick87
Well-known member
Yah I always thought it was used as more of a conditioner for preventing corrosion.
The Remington UML is made for 200
This is what I was shooting, which is basically the system Remington recommends.
Nicoli7153
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2021
- Messages
- 445
Think it states that right on the tube that it's for protecting the metal. But it can also be used as a patch lube (sparingly)
Uh. Even water could be used as a lubricant. Anything that has a viscosity is a lubricant. water is a very poor choice but it is an excellent solvent. Some lubricant has a higher viscosity than others. BB is more of a grease with higher viscosity than that of a thin gun oil. But I'm no scientist I just work with a lot of mechanical engineers in aerospace.
slatebuilder
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jan 27, 2018
- Messages
- 564
@MTGomer deer your target? What plans down the road with this thing?
Yeah, I have a muzzleloader December tag in AZ
David58
Well-known member
Here is my routine, developed after 25 years of shooting traditionals with Holy Black, in humid Oregon, and eight more in bone dry NM. Never have shot a bullet or sabot, this is all based on shooting with patched round balls.
Same routine both places.
I clean with Windex right after I shoot (I prefer to clean at the range and bring a clean rifle or gun home). Windex with ammonia - works amazingly well, cheap enought to be really liberal with it. Second choice is windshield washer fluid with methanol. But since I keep a bottle of windex in my rig, that is usually what I use.
Dry patch, dry patch, enough to make sure it is dry. DRY.
Then, I use a saturated patch with Bore Butter, and maybe add a bit more. More difficult on a cold day, so I may bring the rifle home and use some bore butter that is soft from being left in the house.
Into the safe or up on the wall, depending on where that'n lives.
Then, when I shoot it again, I pop caps to verify the nipple is clear. Once I have done that, I load with a normal powder charge, no ball. A couple of patches tamped down on top of the charge, then touch it off pointed down range.
After that, I shoot. I have never noticed an adverse impact from the bore butter. The bore butter seemed to protect against rust better than any other oil I might use.
Hunting, I use loose powder, a BB or vaseline-lubed patch, and leave it loaded through the hunt, but with hopes of unloading on a critter, of course. The gun sleeps in the rig at night, instead of in and out of the tent/trailer, just a probably unnecessary precaution against condensation.
I know of folks that use motor oil, 90W, and other such stuff for lube and for storage.
Crisco can work for patch lubing, too, and I have used crisco and bear grease mixed to some level of success for hunting patches. But I prefer BB for storage, since it won't slowly migrate toward the breech as an oil might (no science there, just thinking the oils might drain downward).
David
NM
Funny aside: My elk hunt (centerfire rifle is the choice) starts Saturday. I have hunted so much with my ML, at least half a dozen times while typing this (overly wordy) response I have had that 'flash' of "OMG, I need to get my ML gear ready!' The new-to-me SF Hawken gets to go hunting in '23.
Irrelevant
Well-known member
I'm looking forward to reading about that one!
