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2009 to 2014 F150's

I have a 2011 ecoboost that has 140k of hard use and it has been great. They have a tendency to kill spark plugs and I recently had to replace the control arms (rock auto has awesome prices). It's super roomy and quiet. I want to try a new Nissan but I have enjoyed my ecoboost so much it will be hard to buy something else. Matter of fact I like the engine so much that I bought a Ford Transit with the same engine.
 
So....I just dumped $1200 in a transmission control harness today...that included a scheduled fluid and filter, but still. ouch.
 
I own a 2010 with the 5.4l pretty sturdy proven engine outside of some issues with spark plugs. I have owned almost 4 years and bought at 70k miles with only issue being my exhaust manifold leaking which is a $1200 fix..I have 125k on it now.
Bet it was the passenger side. I had the same issue and the guy said it's always that side.
 
As a veterinarian of 30 years, I am now on my 7th Ford work truck. Usually go 120k before trade in. Only had one problem. Engine went out on one 2003 model. Dealership stated that they had problems with those engines that year.
 
I've got 70k+ on a 2014 3.5, nice upgrade to the 2004 grand cherokee it replaced, it's been good so far.
 
I would avoid getting anything with a 5.4, this late in the game you are going o find higher mileage ones. They are known for cam phasers, spark plugs blowing out, and really not having the power compared to the newer 5.0 and 3.5 eco.

For the 3.5 I would avoid the first two years of it 11 & 12. Turbo's were a prob early on but pretty sure they fixed those issues. The first gen 3.5's are known for burning oil, which can lead to other mechanical issues. But if you want something with power for days and don't need a diesel, this is your baby. Fastest out of all the 1/2 ton trucks, gets great mpg in comparison, also gets the best mpg while towing. Ford does warranty the turbo's for 100K miles FYI.

The 5.0 has been a pretty great engine also, I have only dealt with it in mustangs so its not 100% the same comparison.

If it was my choice I would go with a newer 3.5
 
Lol yep I am not fixing mine yet...how long did you drive with yours leaking?
I purchased mine like that and fixed it right away. Not sure how long the guy before me drove with it. I had mine fixed for around $500-600 in central MN. Definitely was not $1200.
 
I purchased mine like that and fixed it right away. Not sure how long the guy before me drove with it. I had mine fixed for around $500-600 in central MN. Definitely was not $1200.
Lucky man I called 5 service shops and they all said $800-1500 to fix it. All depends on how many bolts/seals are broken/rusted out.
 
I bought a used 2013 F-150 Eco 3 years ago with 90,000 miles on it. It has 135,000 on it now, and I have only had it in one time recently for new plugs and coils. It has been a great truck, and it really shines towing my little boat. I can run up any mountain pass with it on cruise control, and it never revs above about 3,000 rpms.
 
I purchased mine like that and fixed it right away. Not sure how long the guy before me drove with it. I had mine fixed for around $500-600 in central MN. Definitely was not $1200.
My 2000 F150 with the 5.4 had this issue for the last two years, not annoying enough to make me fix it though...
 
2013 Ecoboost replaced turbo and timing chain around 70000 miles. Ford paid half since it was out of warranty. At 82000 miles engine went out. Yes I dumped $2000 into original repair, then engine went out. I went round and round with Ford, they paid $4000 of rebuilt $10,000 engine. So in total I dumped $ 8000 into truck. And I do take care of my stuff change synthetic oul at 5000 miles. DONT wait 10,000 miles like they recommend. Ford customer serVice sucks too.
 
Here's a link to my 2014 F-150 ha!

 
Lol yep I am not fixing mine yet...how long did you drive with yours leaking?
Keep in mind that depending on where and how its leaking you do risk burning your exhaust valves and will probably have poor mileage due to oxygen intrusion.
I am about to do mine on my 06 with 130,000 first repair it has ever needed.
 
I had a 2011 that I had to get rid of a couple of months ago due to constant break downs. The 5.0 engine and transmission were the only good thing about it, except the starter,I had to replace it at 70k, then the front bearings needed to be replaced, while doing that, I found the lower ball joints were bad, and that led to rebuilding the whole front end. Then at 82k, the rear clutch pack went out, a couple of days before my appointment to get that fixed, my left rear main leaf spring broke, so I had it towed to the dealership and they fixed both. Then a couple of weeks later, I had a no start issue, it would crank but not start, after about 15 minutes, it started like it had no problem. I took it to a friend's place and he hooked his scanner up and it showed nothing, about a week later it did it again and this time I found the fuel pump fuse burned, but not "popped". So I called the ford dealership and come to find out, there is a TSB about the fuel pump fuse wire being too small and it can start a fire. I ended up buying the kit to fix it and took care of it, the final straw was, when the clutch pack started doing the exact same thing again, but it also had a new grinding noise to it, and that was it for my ownership of that lemon. I know some people have great luck with them, but in my experience, they're not that good of a truck and mine was a gas hog with the best mpg I could get, was 15 mpg.
If you are having noise in your ls clutch packs you are not applying the correct amount of friction modifier. If I had paid for someone to fix the clutch pack and was having trouble before another 100k I would be upset at the mechanic not the truck. Especially if it was a ford dealership they know better. It likely never needed rebuilt it probably just needed a new bottle of friction modifier and you got ripped off.
 
If you are having noise in your ls clutch packs you are not applying the correct amount of friction modifier. If I had paid for someone to fix the clutch pack and was having trouble before another 100k I would be upset at the mechanic not the truck. Especially if it was a ford dealership they know better. It likely never needed rebuilt it probably just needed a new bottle of friction modifier and you got ripped off.
They showed the parts to me and they were all screwed up, and I was absolutely done with the truck after the rear end started making noise again, it was just one thing after another with the dang thing and I was done with it, I've never hated a truck so much as that one and I'll never own another f150 again because of it.
 
They showed the parts to me and they were all screwed up, and I was absolutely done with the truck after the rear end started making noise again, it was just one thing after another with the dang thing and I was done with it, I've never hated a truck so much as that one and I'll never own another f150 again because of it.
I get that you didn't like the truck.
Im just saying that all clutch type limited slips/posi wear but its a matter of how fast and that is dictated by how much friction modifier is added. I can get one to last 300k with a ridiculous amount of fm or add none and it will soon need rebuilt. My point was both rebuilds were likely caused by an inadequate amount of fm or abuse like excessive tire speed difference ie. running a smaller spair or spinning one tire excessively.
Buying a bottle of gear oil in the store that is labeled "limited slip" is seldom enough you need to add fm.
Do you recall how many bottles of fm was used at the time of the rebuild?
 
I get that you didn't like the truck.
Im just saying that all clutch type limited slips/posi wear but its a matter of how fast and that is dictated by how much friction modifier is added. I can get one to last 300k with a ridiculous amount of fm or add none and it will soon need rebuilt. My point was both rebuilds were likely caused by an inadequate amount of fm or abuse like excessive tire speed difference ie. running a smaller spair or spinning one tire excessively.
Buying a bottle of gear oil in the store that is labeled "limited slip" is seldom enough you need to add fm.
Do you recall how many bottles of fm was used at the time of the rebuild?
It was done at a ford dealership, so I'm guessing they used what was required or maybe they didn't, but either way, it doesn't explain why the rest of the truck was failing prematurely...or it was built on a Monday or a Friday.
 
Im pretty sure that dealer was milking you like holstein.
Both wheel bearings failed at the same time? Weird!
Rebuilt entire front end because of a bad ball joint?
Two sets of Ls clutches in less than 100k.
I would bet money they didn't add enough friction modifier.
I think you should be pissed at the dealer.
To me it sounds like you had bad luck with your truck and a shop that was upselling you and doing work that they know will work past your repair warranty but will inevitably fail.
 

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