1st time Arrow selection help.

[pojoaque40]

I keep the arrows consistent and swap broadheads between elk and pronghorn. This does require going stiff on your arrow, and while i agree that an exceedingly stiff arrow may hurt your accuracy, i personally believe going weak is much worse (and i believe that's the general consensus reading a bunch of forum posts). You can always add weight to the front to weaken; you can't stiffen an arrow without some form of compromise in momentum or length.

And as others have said, if you're new turn it down. I can shoot 75lbs all day long with my compound; i'm not ashamed to say i shoot 40lbs trad, b/c that's simply where i shoot best.

 

[lpshunter29]

I keep the arrows consistent and swap broadheads between elk and pronghorn. This does require going stiff on your arrow, and while i agree that an exceedingly stiff arrow may hurt your accuracy, i personally believe going weak is much worse (and i believe that's the general consensus reading a bunch of forum posts). You can always add weight to the front to weaken; you can't stiffen an arrow without some form of compromise in momentum or length.

And as others have said, if you're new turn it down. I can shoot 75lbs all day long with my compound; i'm not ashamed to say i shoot 40lbs trad, b/c that's simply where i shoot best.

How do you go about switching between broadheads? Did you find two that tune the same? Also, what's your motivation? Seems to me if a BH works for one it'll work fine for the other unless you're using a mechanical for goats.

Sorry for all the questions, not trying to commandeer the thread just never heard of that practice.

 

[BrokenChicken]

^ also want more info. i'm set on Fixed BH's, but i think if i go after Antelope i may want to switch to Mechanical if it'll allow me to stretch the distance out a bit?

 

[lpshunter29]

^ also want more info. i'm set on Fixed BH's, but i think if i go after Antelope i may want to switch to Mechanical if it'll allow me to stretch the distance out a bit?

The opposite is true. With a mechanical, you lose some of your energy opening up the blades so you'll have to limit your range more than with a fixed blade. If you're worried about accuracy, get accurate fixed blades and have your shop help you tune for them. The two that come to mind for me in terms of accuracy are QAD Exodus and Slick Trick Standard. Any arrow/bow can be tuned to a broadhead, but you can't really gain energy enough to open a mechanical at 60 yards (if you don't have it).

(That's why I'm confused about that post)

 

[BrokenChicken]

The opposite is true. With a mechanical, you lose some of your energy opening up the blades so you'll have to limit your range more than with a fixed blade. If you're worried about accuracy, get accurate fixed blades and have your shop help you tune for them. The two that come to mind for me in terms of accuracy are QAD Exodus and Slick Trick Standard. Any arrow/bow can be tuned to a broadhead, but you can't really gain energy enough to open a mechanical at 60 yards (if you don't have it).

(That's why I'm confused about that post)

that makes sense about not enough energy to open up. good to know. thanks

 

[shannerdrake]

My experience having shot, smithed, tuned, and setup bows for over 20 years is that over half of the folks shooting bows out there are not properly tuned*. Without a proper tune, you will always be chasing accuracy and your setup will be very unforgiving. Starting out with a properly setup bow is the foundation for all good archery. Take the advice and get your bow setup by a true professional. I would also be willing to wait on arrows until you take your bow to be setup by a pro. It is a spit in the eye of a pro shop to bring to them a sack of mismatched goods and ask them to put it together and make it work all in the name of saving 10% buying off the internet. Whatever little bit more you pay getting your gear from a real shop will come back to you in spades with a properly tuned and setup bow.

Also, you have a gift in that you've never had a chance to develop poor shooting form so don't waste it! I recommend the John Dudley youtube series on shot execution. Learn from the start how to push/pull a surprise release and you will be outshooting all of us trigger punchers this time next year.

Also for the love of all things Holy, DO NOT swap broadheads midseason so you can shoot something more species specific. Find a good head and stick with it and then buy extras before those jokers discontinue it and introduce an "improved" version of it two years from now to boost sales. I'm not in the anti-mechanical camp like some guys on here are. They fly very well, are easier to tune, do not broadhead plane as bad a many fixed blades, offer better cutting diameters, etc. However, I agree for the most part that a good solid fixed blade is preferable for species like elk. I have had good luck tuning QAD Exodus heads and am currently playing around with some of the single bevel two blades out there, but don't have enough data/experience yet to recommend them.

*Tuning is a dynamic thing that includes the shooter and every part of the bow and arrow setup. Trusting a bunch of folks on the forum to piece that together for an accurate setup is a like having someone field dress their first deer blindfolded while listening to a podcast on how to field dress deer. A bow is a massive tuning fork and everything you add or subtract from it will change the dynamics. I'm amazed at the guys who practice without a quiver all summer then can't fathom how they missed that elk at 40 yards with six arrows and broadheads hanging at on the side of their bow during hunting season.

 

[BrokenChicken]

My experience having shot, smithed, tuned, and setup bows for over 20 years is that over half of the folks shooting bows out there are not properly tuned*. Without a proper tune, you will always be chasing accuracy and your setup will be very unforgiving. Starting out with a properly setup bow is the foundation for all good archery. Take the advice and get your bow setup by a true professional. I would also be willing to wait on arrows until you take your bow to be setup by a pro. It is a spit in the eye of a pro shop to bring to them a sack of mismatched goods and ask them to put it together and make it work all in the name of saving 10% buying off the internet. Whatever little bit more you pay getting your gear from a real shop will come back to you in spades with a properly tuned and setup bow.

Also, you have a gift in that you've never had a chance to develop poor shooting form so don't waste it! I recommend the John Dudley youtube series on shot execution. Learn from the start how to push/pull a surprise release and you will be outshooting all of us trigger punchers this time next year.

Also for the love of all things Holy, DO NOT swap broadheads midseason so you can shoot something more species specific. Find a good head and stick with it and then buy extras before those jokers discontinue it and introduce an "improved" version of it two years from now to boost sales. I'm not in the anti-mechanical camp like some guys on here are. They fly very well, are easier to tune, do not broadhead plane as bad a many fixed blades, offer better cutting diameters, etc. However, I agree for the most part that a good solid fixed blade is preferable for species like elk. I have had good luck tuning QAD Exodus heads and am currently playing around with some of the single bevel two blades out there, but don't have enough data/experience yet to recommend them.

*Tuning is a dynamic thing that includes the shooter and every part of the bow and arrow setup. Trusting a bunch of folks on the forum to piece that together for an accurate setup is a like having someone field dress their first deer blindfolded while listening to a podcast on how to field dress deer. A bow is a massive tuning fork and everything you add or subtract from it will change the dynamics. I'm amazed at the guys who practice without a quiver all summer then can't fathom how they missed that elk at 40 yards with six arrows and broadheads hanging at on the side of their bow during hunting season.

appreciate solid advice.

 

[beartooth1983]

cool

 

[wyattc]

i like the easton fmjs

 

[BrokenChicken]

So i ended up with Easton Axis 5mm 300spine. 501gr total (125broadhead/tips). They are shooting well for me.
(ignore one stray )

 

[Bob-WY]

That's a good group

3 suggestions

1, move that sight down and left, that will bring the group up and right

2, stop shooting so many at the same spot. Tight groups are cool. Smashing arrows together gets expensive

Next put you fixed blade heads on and shoot 1 bh, one field point. If they are together your bow is tuned

 

[BrokenChicken]

That's a good group

3 suggestions

1, move that sight down and left, that will bring the group up and right

2, stop shooting so many at the same spot. Tight groups are cool. Smashing arrows together gets expensive

Next put you fixed blade heads on and shoot 1 bh, one field point. If they are together your bow is tuned

Thanx.
that was still early on so I’ve since moved pins, upp’d bow poundage, moved pins again. You’re right, while tight groups were cool, they did cause split/cracked arrows so i no longer shoot at same target at under 40yrds.
i also have been shooting broadheads: and what’s interesting: when i release and u just know it was a good shot - fp and bh group in same spot. But if i punched the trigger or just know it wasnt a good shot - the spread between fp vs bh is bigger than it would be between two fps.
this was my best (maybe little lucky) 1bh and 1fp follow up at 50yards.

 

[grenhdkilr]

I run easton 5MM FMJ with a 100 grain innerloc 3 blade mechanical broadhead total arrow weight is 505 grains

 

[slamdmini]

That's a good group

3 suggestions

1, move that sight down and left, that will bring the group up and right

2, stop shooting so many at the same spot. Tight groups are cool. Smashing arrows together gets expensive

Next put you fixed blade heads on and shoot 1 bh, one field point. If they are together your bow is tuned

this. ur first robin hood is kinda cool. after that they suck. i do not shoot groups inside 50 yds. (unless im tuning or sighting in) i learned the hard way.

 

[bawana]

Looks like you're well on your way. As others have said I would stick with one broadhead for now, your arrow selection looks good, if it ain't broke don't fix it!

 

[Dan O]

Remember to check your arrows for damage after every shot. Once you seen one blow up and mangle a guys hand you will totally understand.