WPG Pup $$$?

[Gary]

We bought our Wirehair for $2000 in 2018. Dog prices are going thru the roof with the pandemic. We are dropping $2600 on a Havanese next week, wife’s happy so whatever! What the hell do you do with a dog that doesn’t hunt?

Rub it behind the ears.

 

[BluegrassBilly]

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Cute pup. I’d recommend “Training the Versatile Dog” if you’ve not already read it.

 

[BluegrassBilly]

Cute pup. I’d recommend “Training the Versatile Dog” if you’ve not already read it.

Already there. Going to try a combination of that and some of Richard Wolters’ Gun Dog.

 

[cwitherow]

Cute puppies make even the worst day not so bad. Mine is almost 8 months. Even on his worst days, I wouldn't trade him for all the money in the world.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Already there. Going to try a combination of that and some of Richard Wolters’ Gun Dog.

I think the biggest thing is sticking to a protocol and following it.

I used marker training for basic obedience, and then as the pup got older (6 months) began to overlay it with collar conditioning. Be a stickler on your leash manners and heel. The Germans are big on the "Halt" command, and I have to say, it is a wonderful tool. I use it frequently, and you can also overlay this with a whistle blast.

If you do force fetch, I really liked Evan Graham's "Smart Fetch". It seemed to be well regarded across breeds, and the book is well laid out and easy to follow. Again, do all aspects of it if you want the best results.

Your breeder should also be a good training reference, and you might looking into a JGHV or NAVDHA training group.

 

[golfer]

I think the biggest thing is sticking to a protocol and following it.

I used marker training for basic obedience, and then as the pup got older (6 months) began to overlay it with collar conditioning. Be a stickler on your leash manners and heel. The Germans are big on the "Halt" command, and I have to say, it is a wonderful tool. I use it frequently, and you can also overlay this with a whistle blast.

If you do force fetch, I really liked Evan Graham's "Smart Fetch". It seemed to be well regarded across breeds, and the book is well laid out and easy to follow. Again, do all aspects of it if you want the best results.

Your breeder should also be a good training reference, and you might looking into a JGHV or NAVDHA training group.

Is 6 months the earliest you introduced the e collar to your pup? I’m guessing the basics sit stay come were already well established before the collar was started?

 

[Deleted member 20812]

Is 6 months the earliest you introduced the e collar to your pup? I’m guessing the basics sit stay come were already well established before the collar was started?

I've done it earlier, it kind of depends on the dog and the trainer both. Yes, it is imperative that basics are already WELL established, because you are using a known command to teach the dog how to avoid the collar pressure. Really, that's all collar conditioning is, implementing a new kind of pressure and then allowing the dog to stop the pressure by obeying the command. One of the key components of force fetch is transitioning from ear pinch/toe pinch pressure to collar pressure.

 

[golfer]

I've done it earlier, it kind of depends on the dog and the trainer both. Yes, it is imperative that basics are already WELL established, because you are using a known command to teach the dog how to avoid the collar pressure. Really, that's all collar conditioning is, implementing a new kind of pressure and then allowing the dog to stop the pressure by obeying the command. One of the key components of force fetch is transitioning from ear pinch/toe pinch pressure to collar pressure.

May seem like a bonehead question, but what exactly are you referring to with the term collar pressure. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to wrap my head around as much knowledge before our griff comes home.

 

[Deleted member 20812]

May seem like a bonehead question, but what exactly are you referring to with the term collar pressure. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to wrap my head around as much knowledge before our griff comes home.

No worries at all.

Collar pressure is the electrical stimulation you are providing. Everything you do to make your dog mind is meant to apply pressure, be it the tone of your voice, your posture, leash tension, heeling stick, etc. Collar pressure (done properly) is uncomfortable to the dog. You'll see them turn their head slightly or shake it.

It's really no different than leash conditioning. Dog pulls away from you, pressure is applied. Once they step to you, pressure is released and they learn there is reward in compliance. Same thing with collar conditioning. You tell Doggo to "come", and hold down the button on the e collar. As soon as they step towards you, the pressure is released.

An e collar can be a very versatile training tool when you learn how to adjust the level of stimulation to match the pressure you want to apply. For example, using a lower level on the e collar, when Doggo is our free running, give him the "heel" command and hold the stimulation until he is at heel. This will teach him not to dawdle around when you tell him to "heel".

 

[OntarioHunter]

May seem like a bonehead question, but what exactly are you referring to with the term collar pressure. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to wrap my head around as much knowledge before our griff comes home.

Don't worry about force fetch unless the pup shows a disinclination to retrieve. Some pointing dogs do it naturally, some have to be forced. Wait and cross that bridge if you come to it.

 

[BluegrassBilly]

I really want to join a NAVHDA chapter, but the closest one meets nearly four hours away. I may need to reserve my Saturdays off from the family for actual hunting days.

Following Wolter's fetching advice so far, and she's already exhibiting some real desire, so I'm hoping I can avoid force fetching.

I'm on the fence on e-collars altogether. I know they can be a valuable tool, but I've also read much about how they can be deployed wrong, and the breeder warned me that these dogs will never forgive training mistakes. I think I might be better off with very good basic obedience, slowly working in distractions, etc., so that she's rock solid on Come, Sit, and Stay.

 

[BirdManMike]

ECollars can be invaluable IMO or completely unnecessary.

The main disadvantage I think youll run into without an ECollar is that all your obedience work is going to be happening with the dog in voice range. The more you do this - calling the dog back, giving commands, etc. - the closer you are going to bring in your dogs working range. You may be ok or want a close working dog, and thats fine, but if you do not and you are reliant upon voice command then you are never going to let the dog get to where both you and it are comfortable ranging.

Dont worry about missing out on NAVHDA training. IMO, the training regime puts too much emphasis on control and can teach the wrong lessons. Wild birds are better - better lessons for the dog. Think about it - what does game farm birds that dont fly teach the dog? Pheasants that let the dog get within 10'? Pigeons shot from a launcher the dog was pointing a few feet away? A wild grouse or hun on the prairie isnt going to let a dog get 10' away let alone hold, not after early September if even then. Basic obedience, train the collar, and then better to just run the dog out on birds with no expectation of shooting one to let the birds teach the dog. Youll get there in no time and be shooting birds the dog pinned faster than you think.

My opinion, take it for what it is - rando on the multiwebs maybe talking nonsense.

Ive a 9 year old griff and wouldnt trade her for the world. Have fun!