Shaky
New member
DGF,
I really don't practice at 650 yards, so I really don't know what the groups are at 650 yards. Last summer I did some pre-season practicing at 300 yards and was fairly consistant shooting 3/4" groups at 300 yards on a very calm day. When I first had the rifle built, after the barrel break in, I did shoot a couple of rounds at 100, 200, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 550, 600, and 650 yards just to get an idea of elevation adjustments at those yardages. From zero to 200 yards I don't adjust elevation at all, at 300 yards I adjust 1", at 400 yards I adjust 2 1/4" and so on. All these adjustments are based on a 100 yard zero, therefor at 300 yards my adjustment is 3" high at the 300 yard mark, that puts me at zero at 300 yards. I hope that didn't confuse anybody. I do know that at 600 yards I needed 27" of elevation to be on at 600 yards. In other words if I were to divide 27 by 6 = 4.5" - the 4.5" would mean I would hit 4.5" high at 100 yards to be zero at 600 yards. It's relatively flat shooting.
Don
I really don't practice at 650 yards, so I really don't know what the groups are at 650 yards. Last summer I did some pre-season practicing at 300 yards and was fairly consistant shooting 3/4" groups at 300 yards on a very calm day. When I first had the rifle built, after the barrel break in, I did shoot a couple of rounds at 100, 200, 300, 350, 400, 450, 500, 550, 600, and 650 yards just to get an idea of elevation adjustments at those yardages. From zero to 200 yards I don't adjust elevation at all, at 300 yards I adjust 1", at 400 yards I adjust 2 1/4" and so on. All these adjustments are based on a 100 yard zero, therefor at 300 yards my adjustment is 3" high at the 300 yard mark, that puts me at zero at 300 yards. I hope that didn't confuse anybody. I do know that at 600 yards I needed 27" of elevation to be on at 600 yards. In other words if I were to divide 27 by 6 = 4.5" - the 4.5" would mean I would hit 4.5" high at 100 yards to be zero at 600 yards. It's relatively flat shooting.
Don
