Trail building and rock breaking.

I really think it's just that first 50 yards that is going to be hard. I'm thinking if it is too hard I can drop down below that yellow circled stuff and move up after I get past it.

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Updated route based on matching the 2 different angles up:

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I don't work with construction equipment, but rather ag equipment. Certain implements seem to have a ton of wear and tear on tractors/machines they are attached to. Yes the thing may be rated for your tractor, but through the vibration, impacts, extra hydraulic flow, etc. it will cause other components on your excavator to wear out pre-maturely. The machine is built to dig holes. Adding impact and vibration will cause seals to fail, bearings to go out, things that are supposed to be round becoming oblong, things that are supposed to be straight bending.. that sort of thing.
Definitely going to be using some premium Moly 5% grease for the excavator and the breaker when I'm running it. I just don't think running it for 20 hours is going to destroy a nearly brand new excavator. Seems like if you put something like a breaker on a worn machine you might spring a few leaks for sure, it is going to put some stress on things. Might be a good idea to do it now while I'm still under warranty.
 
I really think it's just that first 50 yards that is going to be hard. I'm thinking if it is too hard I can drop down below that yellow circled stuff and move up after I get past it.

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I live in hard rock mining country. Tons of road building, reclaiming excavation.

The gold mines have big money, big equipment, explosives, and dudes with lots of experience.

That's a big job and you will destroy your machine at best.
 
I live in hard rock mining country. Tons of road building, reclaiming excavation.

The gold mines have big money, big equipment, explosives, and dudes with lots of experience.

That's a big job and you will destroy your machine at best.

I keep looking back at the work that was already done and other than that one big rock on the side of the trail, everything else is broken into pretty small pieces. From a geology perspective I think we are dealing with a heavily fractured rock formation rather than something like heavy bedrock. The previous guy did that with just an excavator and a bucket. No breaker and no ripper. He had a bigger excavator but based looking at it most of that rock was able to be pulled apart in pretty small pieces. I don't intend to destroy my machine but I do think I am going to give it a try. I do wish I could have seen a "before" picture of the area that is already completed, I don't know if that spot looked like the area immediately above it with the big exposed rock faces or if it looked like the area in front where I need to go that looks reasonably passable with just a few big rocks. I think that worst case scenario I have to stay flat for that first 50 yards and stay to the side of the cliff that will be there if the rock is solid.

I can't move up much faster than that anyway to keep a reasonable slope. If I had to go through the area circled in yellow I think it would be a chore but I think I can stay under that. Right at the top where I plan to make a switchback to turn back there is a shelf that might pose another problem but I think these are things I can get through, just think they will take some time and patience and pondering as I get to them.

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Putting both pictures in the same post so you can see them without scrolling back and forth too much:

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If I can get through that first big rock right at the start of the red line I think I have a legitimate shot at getting it done.
 
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I'm rooting for you, but even just some tanerite and shooting practice would be worth a try. I want videos of how it goes with the breaker.
 
I just pulled the trigger on the road building package today. 12" bucket with rock chisel teeth, and 3 regular teeth plus 3 spare rock chisel teeth, Ripper with rock chisel tooth, plus 3 spare teeth, 750lb 68mm hydraulic breaker with 4 chisels - 2 wedge and 2 moil, extra set of bushings and 2 extra sets of seals + a 100mm post hole driver bit with a cup that will up to a 3.5" pipe for post driving. Allocating shipping and tariffs I'm at $2,050 for the breaker including all the spare parts, $750 for the 12" bucket and the 6 extra teeth, $550 for the ripper and the extra teeth and $220 for the 100mm post driver bit including delivery to my door. All of them are going to be fabricated for the exact specs of the TB 250-2 pin setup so will swap out easy with my manual quick coupler.

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Breaker comes with the nitrogen tank and filling setup.

Clock starts ticking today - should have them before Christmas.
 
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What is the actual geology? It’s hard to tell from the picture. Appears sedimentary as a whole but seems to be breaking igneous. Big difference for breaking them. Not familiar with the rock where you’re at.
 
What is the actual geology? It’s hard to tell from the picture. Appears sedimentary as a whole but seems to be breaking igneous. Big difference for breaking them. Not familiar with the rock where you’re at.
According to the Google:

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Based on your location northwest of Trinidad, you are exploring the steep slopes flanking the Raton Basin. The prominent rock layer shown in your photos is a classic exposure of the Trinidad Sandstone.

Geological Features Visible in Your Photos

• The Rock Type: The massive, blocky, light tan-to-buff colored rock you are standing against is fine- to medium-grained sandstone. Notice how it breaks into thick, flat slabs and large, angular boulders along the trail.

• Depositional Environment: This layer represents ancient beach and shoreline deposits from roughly 68 million years ago (Late Cretaceous). As the vast Western Interior Seaway retreated eastward out of Colorado, it left behind these massive blankets of sand.

• Stratigraphic Position:

• Directly beneath this sandstone layer (further down the slope or hidden under the talus) lies the dark gray Pierre Shale, which formed in deep marine water.

• Directly above this layer (higher up the ridge covered by the scrub oak and pinon pines) is the Vermejo Formation, which contains old coastal swamps, mudstones, and coal beds.

• The White Staining: The prominent white chalky patches coating the rock faces are efflorescent salt crusts (often calcium carbonate or gypsum). They form when rainwater seeps through the porous sandstone, dissolves natural minerals, and leaves them behind as a residue when the water evaporates on the cliff face.

Landscape and Terrain

The aerial drone shots perfectly capture the cuesta landscape typical of the Trinidad area. The hard, weather-resistant Trinidad Sandstone forms a protective shelf or cliff layer. Where it gives way, gravity creates the massive fields of loose rock (talus slopes) that you had to navigate with your UTV.

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According to the Google machine it should break pretty well with a hydraulic breaker but we will see.

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Strategy for a Sandstone Bench Cut

• 1. Attack the "Bottom-Toe" Joint First: Do not start by hammering the top of the rock face. Instead, place the breaker point right at the inside corner where your proposed trail floor meets the vertical hillside (the toe of the slope). Sandstone naturally breaks along horizontal bedding planes. By punching into the toe, you will undermine the rock above it, causing large sections of the cliff face to fracture and drop down onto the trail floor on their own.


• 2. Rake the Fractured Slabs: The Trinidad Sandstone is highly jointed. Before you turn on the hammer for every single foot of advancement, use your excavator bucket to aggressively curl and lift the rock face. You will likely find that the hammer has already pre-fractured the rock several feet deep, allowing you to pry away large, intact blocks without using the breaker at all.


• 3. Beware of "Blank Blasts": Because this sandstone is somewhat compressible, if you hold the hammer down in one spot for more than 15 seconds without the rock cracking, stop. If you keep hammering, the chisel will simply drill a hole, create a pocket of sand cushion, and send destructive shockwaves back up into your excavator's boom, pins, and hydraulic seals. If it doesn't crack quickly, reposition the tool 6 to 12 inches closer to an open edge.
 
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Okay. I was up there unsuccessfully trying to fill an elk tag and investigated a little bit more. There is actually more room beside that big rock than I remembered. I might could even get in beside it with the TB250.

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And other than that one big rock I think things really look more manageable than I remembered although there is probably some trouble in the left side of this frame that just isn't exposed yet. There are a lot of cracks showing, hopefully there will be plenty of cracks and it can be pulled apart with the ripper.
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Here's another angle of the big rock looking down on it from above. I think it is going to take a while but I do think the breaker should be able to get at it from the right angle.

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Climbing further up the route it will be interesting to see what is beneath the surface. On the top it looks pretty manageable.

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These are the big rocks from the drone view. I think they could be moved over and I might not need to go around them. It all comes down to what's about 5 or 6 feet below the surface on the upslope side of the hill once I start trying to go forward.

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Also a few more trails that need work.

The guy that built them (the guy who owned the property before me) didn't seem to understand how to slope a road so that all the water didn't run back onto the road and then run down the road. It's like he was afraid he was going to slide off if the road wasn't angled back toward the hill.

I'm going to need to rebuild them a little with a slight outslope and fill in the eroded part.

This section isn't too bad. Yet.


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This is just a bit further down the same trail. The erosion is pretty much right down the middle of the road and the angle is quite a bit back toward the upslope. I've just been driving my Rzr right on the outside edge for now.

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The worst of the erosion on that trail. I will probably put a couple water bars in this section in addition to getting about a 3% outslope to keep the water going away from the road instead of onto the road. I think I can just steal the material from the outside edge to fill the erosion. I will rough the eroded part up first and pack it in good. It will go twice as fast if I'm taking the outside down and building the inside up with every bucket.

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This is once the road makes the turn and the erosion is on the inside. I think this would be solved just by getting a slight outslope to the trail, although going around the corner there is quite a big of angle I'm going to have to take off.

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I might be able to leave the upslope on some of this where it isn't too badly eroded but will for sure need to add water bars to get the water off occasionally. On the sections where it is eroding a small creek right down the middle of the road I'm going to have to outslope those I think.

He made these trails about twice as wide as you would need even for a full size vehicle. I think it was because he was using such a big excavator it needed the width to go back and forth. If it wasn't for the creek bed running right down the middle of the road they would be really nice.
 
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