To cut or not to cut, that is the question. Suppressor & Barrel Length

22-250 1/2-28 or 9/16-24
7-08 & 280 9/16-24
300wsm 5/8-24
@p_ham , what barrel diameter is your minimum and what do you consider optimal for a can with a 5/8-24 direct thread mount on a 30 cal rifle? What numbers are you wanting (bore diameter to thread OD and shoulder over thread diameter)?
I took the 300wsm to my gunsmith today. It’s .765 at 20” and he says that’s not enough meat for 5/8-24 and wants to thread it for the 1/2-28 mount instead. 🤔 Just wondering if he is being too conservative or if he’s gone senile and I should go get it back. 😬 He’s an old codger with a solid reputation and has been doing this forever, but it doesn’t sound right to me. But I am not the expert.

He also was not excited about taking the barrel off a Tikka (to cut the 22-250 down). Seems like they are notoriously difficult. I see you have a few for sale that you’ve pulled off. Is the reputation warranted?
 
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@p_ham , what barrel diameter is your minimum and what do you consider optimal for a can with a 5/8-24 direct thread mount on a 30 cal rifle? What numbers are you wanting (bore diameter to thread OD and shoulder over thread diameter)?
I took the 300wsm to my gunsmith today. It’s .765 at 20” and he says that’s not enough meat for 5/8-24 and wants to thread it for the 1/2-28 mount instead. 🤔 Just wondering if he is being too conservative or if he’s gone senile and I should go get it back. 😬 He’s an old codger with a solid reputation and has been doing this forever, but it doesn’t sound right to me. But I am not the expert.

He also was not excited about taking the barrel off a Tikka (to cut the 22-250 down). Seems like they are notoriously difficult. I see you have a few for sale that you’ve pulled off. Is the reputation warranted?
With a traditional shoulder .725" would be minimum barrel diameter for 5/8-24. Optimum would be .750" or larger for that thread. You want at least .1" shoulder diameter over thread Major.

If you have the standard Tikka Lite then I would bet your barrel diameter at 20" is .675" and not .765" in which case he can still get away with 9/16-24. If your suppressor doesn't have the 9/16 option then 1/2-28 will work.

Another option is to thread for 5/8-24 SIG/Q taper which you need significantly less barrel OD for. You then use a little taper washer/adapter that provides enough shoulder for traditional mounting.

Taking Tikka barrels off can be a chore but I've only really fought one barrel so far. The rest have loosened right up with some persuasion from a wooden mallet on my action wrench. I think the shock really helps. A lot of smiths have issues with them. I think Winchester is worse.
 
With a traditional shoulder .725" would be minimum barrel diameter for 5/8-24. Optimum would be .750" or larger for that thread. You want at least .1" shoulder diameter over thread Major.

If you have the standard Tikka Lite then I would bet your barrel diameter at 20" is .675" and not .765" in which case he can still get away with 9/16-24. If your suppressor doesn't have the 9/16 option then 1/2-28 will work.

Another option is to thread for 5/8-24 SIG/Q taper which you need significantly less barrel OD for. You then use a little taper washer/adapter that provides enough shoulder for traditional mounting.

Taking Tikka barrels off can be a chore but I've only really fought one barrel so far. The rest have loosened right up with some persuasion from a wooden mallet on my action wrench. I think the shock really helps. A lot of smiths have issues with them. I think Winchester is worse.
Sorry, that may not have been the clearest. The 300wsm is a Savage and it’s definitely .765 at 20” (it’s .750 at 24”). Somewhere around the .725 you mentioned seems to be what I am finding online as well, that’s why I was a little surprised when he said he wanted to go with the 1/2-28. There’s also a 9/16-24 direct mount available for this suppressor which I told him I would buy if it would work better, and he said that wouldn’t work either. Maybe he read his caliper wrong?? I don’t know. I don’t want to insult him, but also want it done right.

The 22-250 is the Tikka T3x and it does have the sporter barrel. It’s .655 at 18”.
 
OEMs like seekins use 5/8x24 threads with only 0.700" muzzle diameter but 0.725" is what I've seen pretty universally as min recommended for 5/8x24.
 
My smith talked about magnum actions getting to short and having some powder left unburned with the extra residue in the suppressor? He said this increases extra flash with subsequent shots.

What are your thoughts? I wanted to cut my 7rem mag to 18 or 20 and he wouldn’t go any shorter then 21”.
 
My smith talked about magnum actions getting to short and having some powder left unburned with the extra residue in the suppressor? He said this increases extra flash with subsequent shots.

What are your thoughts? I wanted to cut my 7rem mag to 18 or 20 and he wouldn’t go any shorter then 21”.
It’s best to an avoid blowing unburned powder into your can. It’s inefficient and hard on the can. Of course if the rifle will see 4 or 5 rounds a year (confirm zero, punch tag and return to safe) then it probably doesn’t matter. But if you are going to shoot it a bunch, I wouldn’t cut down a magnum.
 
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16"-18" short action
18"-20" long action
20" magnum.

Like @brockel said, you'll end up wanting to thread all of them.
This is the answer to every question and should be pinned. I used to own 26” magnums and 24” standard rifles. I have since gone to 18-21” on all rifles. You’ll want to thread all rifles you have, once you shoot with the suppressor on, you’ll never pick up a rifle that isn’t.
 
This is the answer to every question and should be pinned. I used to own 26” magnums and 24” standard rifles. I have since gone to 18-21” on all rifles. You’ll want to thread all rifles you have, once you shoot with the suppressor on, you’ll never pick up a rifle that isn’t.
Not true for everybody. mtmuley
 
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