PEAX Equipment

Solid Broadheads?

R.K.

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2017
Messages
930
Location
MT
Looking for an affordable broadhead that will hold up to shooting targets, grouse, elk, trees, rocks behind grouse, etc.- and that I can sharpen & hone back to a razor edge for hunting after all that.

I'd like to get away from having to keep separate heads for practice and hunting, always buying replacement blades, retiring broadheads after hitting one animal with them, etc. As a metallurgist- I like steel. I like sharpening steel, and then polishing the edge. It's fun, and you can't convince me otherwise. I've had good luck with the groups from Thunderheads and QAD Exodus, but they just don't hold up to abuse.

I think I can get away with 175-200 gr on my .300 spine arrows- IF lighted nocks (or weighted) can bring my dynamic spine back enough. Shooting a Bowtech Reign 7- 30" draw, 70lbs, IBO @ 340 fps.

So with that said- was eyeing the Magnus Stinger Killer Bees (150gr). Or the VPA single bevels. Or a few other single bevels. Thoughts?
 
Iron Will broadheads seem like a no-brainer here. I have no experience with them, but they’re made from a good steel, and have a reputation for being tough.
 
tough as hell, but good luck trying to resharpen.
Diamond hones. If you have to be cheep, Harbor Freight sells one that actually works quite well on knives that are otherwise unsharpenable.

I don’t have any experience with A2, but most non-stainless steels actually sharpen much more easily than stainless, yet keep their edge better also, because they don’t suffer from carbide tear out. I have used a number of different knives from 1095 and O1 ranging in hardness from 59 to 63 RC. All of them sharpen easily with natural stones. The ones under 62 sharpen readily on a sharpening steel. They also keep their edge better than 440C and 420HC in spite of being easier to sharpen.

I’m not calling you out. I would just like the info. Have you had any experience sharpening Iron Will broadheads, or are you just guessing based on the 60RC? I have not had experience with them, or anything else made from A2. If they’re tough to sharpen, a diamond hone will sharpen anything, and do it fairly quickly. If it sharpens anything like 1095 and O1, then I wouldn’t let the 60RC scare you. They should sharpen easily enough.
 
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Currently using montec:good not great, trying kudos with the bleeders this fall. The montecs are great affordable option, ironwill is the top shelf. Shot judos at everything i dont tag!
 
Currently using montec:good not great, trying kudos with the bleeders this fall. The montecs are great affordable option, ironwill is the top shelf. Shot judos at everything i dont tag.

To be fair- I’ve only sent one broadhead at a grouse- cheap broadhead and I was fresh out of judos. But I’m more concerned with a broadhead that will survive being wedged against the far shoulder when the deer/elk is at a dead run, or hitting rocks behind a deer after a pass through. The grouse comment was somewhat tongue in cheek, but I feel it accurately represented the situation.
 
Looking for an affordable broadhead that will hold up to shooting targets, grouse, elk, trees, rocks behind grouse, etc.- and that I can sharpen & hone back to a razor edge for hunting after all that.

I'd like to get away from having to keep separate heads for practice and hunting, always buying replacement blades, retiring broadheads after hitting one animal with them, etc. As a metallurgist- I like steel. I like sharpening steel, and then polishing the edge. It's fun, and you can't convince me otherwise. I've had good luck with the groups from Thunderheads and QAD Exodus, but they just don't hold up to abuse.

I think I can get away with 175-200 gr on my .300 spine arrows- IF lighted nocks (or weighted) can bring my dynamic spine back enough. Shooting a Bowtech Reign 7- 30" draw, 70lbs, IBO @ 340 fps.

So with that said- was eyeing the Magnus Stinger Killer Bees (150gr). Or the VPA single bevels. Or a few other single bevels. Thoughts?
RK, new member here. I shoot an almost identical bow and I use VPA single and double bevel broad heads with great success. Expensive and hard to find in Australia but they are well worth the effort on large game.
 
I've been shooting Montec G5 steel broadheads for years now. Super easy to sharpen, I use sharpening stones with different grits to really hone the edge. I only have to buy more when I lose arrows.
 
I second looking hard at VPA...quality, proven performance in Africa, and reasonable price. I spoke with one of the principals in the company a few years ago followed by reading a lot in regards to broadhead design...sold me. Hope this helps.
 
My neighbor has used Iron Will broadheads for a while. Swears by them. Money is no object for him. He just believes in them and has had success with them.

I now have two different Magnus broadhead designs (Stinger Killer Bee Buzzcut and Black Hornet Ser-Razor). I bought them after a few bad experiences with expandables. I chose Mangus because I could order them direct, Mangus has what seems to be a good guarantee and they can be sharpened (albeit, with a little effort). They screw into a standard insert, so are easy to change, if damaged, or to shoot field points with my hunting arrows at the range, etc.

A friend liked them and that was my starting point. They aren't terribly expensive, so I can replace them relatively inexpensively. There are jigs for sharpening. That will be my next investment in using these broadheads.
 
To be fair- I’ve only sent one broadhead at a grouse- cheap broadhead and I was fresh out of judos. But I’m more concerned with a broadhead that will survive being wedged against the far shoulder when the deer/elk is at a dead run, or hitting rocks behind a deer after a pass through. The grouse comment was somewhat tongue in cheek, but I feel it accurately represented the situation.
lol I get it I like my solids almost all my shots are pass through sick into ground and barely a mark on em just a quick touch up n ready to rock again
 
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