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Deleted member 16014
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The wind plex reticle messes with my mind...Dialing in 0.25 moa increments, holding wind in whole moa up to 10 with a big hash mark at 5. Mil/Mil is just too intuitive not to use if at all possible.
Reticle / scope for 300 Win Mag
- Thread starter coppermushroom
- Start date
The Conquest Rapid Z system is easy to use.
They make one out to 800,but to me that's shooting in the wanna be range.
No messing with anything,just know how far,about,while hunting. I like the X-mas stye reticle,and it does not interfere with overall view of target.
Dial in elevation,load,make of rifle,ammo,etc...
I have data printed out,was even going to tape it to stock. No need really,the rifle is dialed in.To 600 yrds.
They make one out to 800,but to me that's shooting in the wanna be range.
No messing with anything,just know how far,about,while hunting. I like the X-mas stye reticle,and it does not interfere with overall view of target.
Dial in elevation,load,make of rifle,ammo,etc...
I have data printed out,was even going to tape it to stock. No need really,the rifle is dialed in.To 600 yrds.
Agreed! For anything I plan on dialing I'll do my best to stick to mil/mil and FFP if/when possible.
As far as simulating elevation, I don't think you can. I'd get as good as data for where you are to as far as you can. Then using a good ballistics program run a chart with your data and only change the elevation/atmosphere. While not as perfect as shooting at that elevation, it should be close enough. Similarly, you don't have to get the CDS dial in yardage. They will make one that is labeled in MOA with a zero stop. This way you just run a different drop chart and not have to have different turrets for different elevations.
As an aside, I asked a maker of custom drop turrets at what elevation increments he suggested one get them made in. His opinion that an elevation turret was good for a range of about 5000'. So, a turret set for 2500' would work from 0-5000 and another at 7500' would work from 5000-10000.
noharleyyet
Well-known member
This thread went slide rule complicated fast.
This thread went slide rule complicated fast.
That's why I don't mess with trying to figure it out,how many clicks,glasses on to see marks...in the field.
And I'm no sniper super long range guy. Aim and shoot. Zero @ 200 at range and your always on.Out to 600.
The Zeiss is dialed in after you enter numbers in their system for YOUR rifle and LOADS. It comes up on screen and there is the scope & data,just like the image previously posted by ewludwig.
I just mentioned a scope that was designed for the 300 WM that is great quality and simple. And I found it for $700
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Only at one power setting on your scope...
I know ,but it has not been an issue whatsoever so far. It seems to work just fine at other settings. Zero stays @ 200 thru all settings.Yeah it may not be the perfect @8.2 thru the settings,but it was dead on @ 5 and 300 yrds on the cow I shot this year.
It does not move off target when you change or keep it in the middle,which I do. Only time I've had to crank it up is look at points in the distance.
Like I said,I'm not a long range shooter. I only shoot out to 400 personally,and that is rare.
Now a Nikon BDC scope HAS to be on full,or it is off,and not zeroed
It does not move off target when you change or keep it in the middle,which I do. Only time I've had to crank it up is look at points in the distance.
Like I said,I'm not a long range shooter. I only shoot out to 400 personally,and that is rare.
Now a Nikon BDC scope HAS to be on full,or it is off,and not zeroed
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MinnesotaHunter
Well-known member
Hank,
I also own a Conquest and it works in the exact same way as Nikon's BDC. Take a look at Ewludwig's image above, you see a slider along the bottom of the RZ calculator, that is where you have to select your chosen magnification setting, that your chart will be calibrated to.
You will see scopes out there that are First Focal Plane (FFP). In these scopes the reticle maintains its relationship with the target, and as a result can be used at all magnifications.
MinnesotaHunter
Well-known member
Thanks, Pointer. I did know that the main reason for their use in long range shooting was for the wider range of adjustment, but I did not know this. I guess I just assumed that was why they were so popular in Europe, but the metric system is also a pretty good reason now that I think about it.
Thanks,I see that now.
But why does it not seem to make a difference at the range w/Zeiss? I blow out the same spot on the target . My Nikon MZ scope moves the group as you change settings. Sandbagged,@ range.
Sorry,didn't mean to hijack ...
MKotur325
New member
If you Zero the Zeiss at 200 yds. The zero should stay at 200yds throughout all magnification settings, but the distance between the range markers does and will change at all the power settings. It may just be that with the two instances you provided that are not using a broad enough power range, or shooting to enough drop to realize the difference. Where as with the ML scope you don't have to shoot as far to realize the difference in drop (the muzzleloader will drop significantly more over shorter distances). With the RZ-800 reticule in my 4.5-14x conquest I believe at the 800 yard bar it's 138" of drop correction at max power, if I drop magnification back to 7x that will become 276" of correction to the same bar in theory. It will make a Huge difference at longer ranges if you change power. If you are only shooting to 300 yds on the reticule, it makes little difference. The RZ-800 compensates for 5" of drop at 300yds at max power, if you cut that back to 7x it becomes 10" A difference of 5" will not likely bring you off an elk... For many hunters, it's really hard to look at where a shot entered on an elk and say "Yup, That's exactly where I was holding" and a difference of 5 inches might not be noticeable.
One sure fire way to see how it works... Set the rifle with a sight in target at 100yds, at max power. not how many inches from the crosshair to say the 600 yard bar. drop the power by 1/2 and look at how many inches it is between the crosshair and the 600yard bar. If, and that's a BIG IF, If the amount of inches between the crosshair and the 600yd bar does not change, you have a first focal plane reticule, and you no longer need to be concerned about magnification for shooting. If it does change, you have a second focal plane reticule and need to watch your power settings...
I hope this can help explain your situation with your RZ reticule...
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