Ollin Magnetic Digiscoping System

Ranking 10 Common Bolt Action Hunting Rifles Under $750

I guess I am giving the 3rd recommendation for the Sauer Classic 100 XT. I got mine about 1 month ago for $690. Price has gone up in the $700s now. Good reviews, good safety, bedding, stock and barrel, lots of calibers and 1 MOA 10 year guarantee. I think all the reviews I read got 1 MOA with factory ammo. However, cannot back up the accuracy claim as I am laid up and cannot shoot it. I think it competes well with the Tikkas at least in advertised features and accuracy. I would put it in the top 5 in the prior list. However it seems most rifles shoot 1 MOA, even the cheap ones.
 
RaiderRich said:
I wonder how the CVA Cascade would compare. I have not shot one but they seem to be a well put together firearm and maybe a better entry than the T/C Compass.
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I have a CVA Cascade (veil camo) in 6.5 PRC that I bought 9/2020 for $520. Absolutely amazing rifle. I put DNZ Huntmaster (game reaper 2) rings and a Leupold VX-Freedom that I had laying around on top, bore sighted, and got sighted in with just 4 shots (which was great because I had to have a buddy handload some copper rounds for me). I just shot 2 rounds a few weeks ago, 1.5 inches high and touching.

It's a great rifle. I'll compare it to a Tikka T3x superlite that I have in 7mm-08.

Barrel/action: Depends.
The barrel on the CVA is very nice. The steel feels like it's of great quality, that's about the best way to describe it. The FDE coating looks good and shows no wear. Obviously the muzzle is threaded (with a sturdy metal protector) on the CVA and not on the Tikka. The crown is stepped, but not sure if that matters; it doesn't seem to. The action on the CVA is a long action for the 6.5 PRC, but I feel like they could utilize a bolt-stop like the Tikka to keep the throw shorter. I guess it could allow you to seat the bullets further out if you handload, which is a benefit to some. The bolt feels nice and sturdy, with a pretty oversized knob. The trigger is surprisingly good, even though I haven't adjusted the weight. I like it much better than the Tikka trigger (which was all the way turned down). Let me repeat that again, the trigger on the CVA is just really good. The bolt cycles fine during hunting or hunting-simulation dry fire practice, but does hang up if too much pressure is placed towards the right side when I am just cycling on the bench, though not any more than a Savage 110 Ultralite in the same chambering. The magazine is flush fit (thankfully!) and seems sturdy, with the 6.5 PRC holding 3 rounds.
I have two gripes. One is that the leverage point on the rear of the action when cocking the rifle has worn down the FDE coating. I don't expect there to be an issue with corrosion, but I'm keeping an eye on it. The second is that safety doesn't lock the bolt; I wish it did.
Obviously, the Tikka action is phenomenally smooth, but in my experience, you really only notice that when you're cycling slowly or admiring it on the bench. It does nothing for me while hunting, but damn it if I don't giggle every time that bolt just slides like skates on ice.

Stock: Cascade
The stock on the CVA is pretty stiff and has a soft-touch sort of coating. I have thrashed it around and it shows no signs of wear. It has a spacer that can be taken out for people that want a shorter LOP. Two front swivel studs, for mounting a bipod I presume, though I don't use one. The barrel channel is generously carved, about as much as a Ruger American, though the fore-end is WAY stiffer. I don't know if it's necessarily a good thing, but it is fully free-floated, including the shank/chamber area. The butt pad is very nice, but not nearly as squishy as I'd like for smaller cartridges. It's still a little more squishy than the Tikka. I wish they made an aftermarket one from Limbsaver or something.

I definitely shoot the CVA better than the Tikka. Possibly due to the weight, coming in at 8.4 pounds scoped, loaded (3+1), and slung, but I definitely feel like the stock fits and FEELS better than the Tikka. Also, the barrel just plain shoots better, especially after 5 rounds or so when the Tikka starts to widen the groups. Better loads for the Tikka will likely help a good bit, but the loads for the CVA are standard (though very consistent) loads that my buddy had worked up for his Savage Ultralite.

I would have a hard time picking a Tikka T3x superlite over the CVA Cascade, normally, but here in California where the hikes are long and you're more likely than not to go all year (or multiple) without shooting at a deer, taking a rifle for a hike is a lot easier when that rifle weighs 1.25 pounds less.
 
jrgeorgia said:
However it seems most rifles shoot 1 MOA, even the cheap ones.
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I used to think the same but I’m starting to think a lot of them actually don’t. But then again a good 3 shot group doesn’t make a “1 MOA gun” to me. Lots of folks might shoot sub MOA groups 1 out of 3 and assume it was them on the other groups. I don’t anymore.

I worked the public sight in day at my range last weekend. We have to babysit people because of the dumb shit that has happened in the past (shooting with mud clogged barrels, shooting after a squib, wrong cartridge, etc). Of the dozen or so people I babysat, 2 of them shot a sub MOA group. Most were over 3 MOA. A lot of them had garbage scopes and I don’t really trust their scope mount setup either.. I shot a couple of their guns and felt like I broke good triggers and still shot 3+ moa..

I’ve had 2 $2k seekins 300wm that didn’t shoot MOA consistently with any bullet I wanted to shoot from it. Have had nearly $4k into carbon barreled customs that didn’t shoot sub MOA consistently.
 
longbow51 said:
Hey @VikingsGuy, did you ever get your Bergara Premier? How did it shoot?
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I did get it in Highlander 280AI. Obviously pricier than those on this list. "Fit and finish" are good. Action smooth (but not tikka smooth). It shot factory (a few different brands) at about 1MOA (three 5 shot groups, no removed "flyers"). Haven't had a chance to work up a hand load - I would expect to get in the 0.75MOA range with a decent hand load. Overall, I would put it on par with a Tikka barrelled action in an HS Precision stock. But that re-stocked Tikka would be $250 cheaper. The reason I didn't do that was I wanted a 280AI and didn't have time to mess around barrelling a tikka (and then the final cost would have been higher).

But if tikka has the cartridge chambering you want I would take a Tikka SS in a B&C stock for $400 less than Bergara Premier every time. The tikka is lighter and the action smoother. But both are great rifles and variety is the spice of life.
 
ImBillT said:
A CZ 557 Synthetic should probably be fighting it out with the Tikka for the top spot.

Remington probably deserves more than a single representation since Savage gets three. They both make some decent guns for the low budget end of things.

If you’re gonna spend $700 on a factory rifle, and don’t intend to mess with it after that, Howa, Tikka, and CZ are probably all you should look at. For going cheaper than that, or for upgrading later on, Savage and Remington 700’s are probably all you should be looking at.
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Looking hard at a CZ 557 Synthetic now, seems like a super sweet rig
 
The original selection of $750 as top-end for the list was arbitrary but seemed about right for the most common HT questions. Here is a little deeper dive into, "what you get (and don't get)" as the price point rises.

 
I still think this list is great but would have a real hard time buying a savage anything over a m700 even with all of the issues over the years. Maybe I associate m700 variants too much with actual 700s but I just can't get behind a savage action.
 
I absolutely cant STAND that stupid savage accutrigger. No way would I ever own a gun with one of those on it.
 
Wind Gypsy said:
I still think this list is great but would have a real hard time buying a savage anything over a m700 even with all of the issues over the years. Maybe I associate m700 variants too much with actual 700s but I just can't get behind a savage action.
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Hopefully, new ownership will raise the quality of the base rifles and re-establish the brand.
 
Can you all give some more information on what it is about the Savage trigger that is objectionable? I have a 110 Hunter in 6.5CM that I rather like the trigger on but my only comparison is my mid-90's Remington 700 30-06 which I've been told doesn't have a very nice feeling trigger.
 
rideold said:
Can you all give some more information on what it is about the Savage trigger that is objectionable? I have a 110 Hunter in 6.5CM that I rather like the trigger on but my only comparison is my mid-90's Remington 700 30-06 which I've been told doesn't have a very nice feeling trigger.
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Personally the trigger (AccuTrigger) for me is a decent trigger. The action can be a pain especially in regard to the extraction/ejection functionality. Luckily a few after market kits to deal with that.
 
RaiderRich said:
Personally the trigger (AccuTrigger) for me is a decent trigger. The action can be a pain especially in regard to the extraction/ejection functionality. Luckily a few after market kits to deal with that.
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I agree. In my experience, the accutrigger is decent for a sub $500 rifle, but the bolt sliding forward into battery can be sticky (a lot in some cases) which drives me nuts and I sold my 3 bolt savages (but kept my 10BR).
 
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I actually like the accutrigger for several reasons. But they can be replaced just as easily as the spongy factory M700 triggers that people complain so much about and replace… but I have adjusted and kept my m700 trigger as well
 
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