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Looks great!Finally got the pans in so I could make these carts. Pretty happy with how they turned out. I was a little off on my labor estimate but now that I have the as-built cut sheet I could get a lot closer to my estimate if I ever build more. View attachment 402931View attachment 402930View attachment 402929
Yeah its on the list. 20x20 metal building with a 9ft lean-to on the side. Poured floor with a roll up garage door. I started and stopped this project 3 different times due to rain.Looks great!
You need a garage badly.
Trust me when I say that bigger is better. A quality built metal building is invaluable.Yeah its on the list. 20x20 metal building with a 9ft lean-to on the side. Poured floor with a roll up garage door. I started and stopped this project 3 different times due to rain.
Oh I believe it. If I had a place out in the country I would have a true shop built (if I had the money). Gotta live within the reality you have though.Trust me when I say that bigger is better. A quality built metal building is invaluable.
I've thought about getting one of those. I'd like your opinion on how it works. I've been thinking about selling my Precision Tig 225 . I just don't use it that much. I'm thinking one of the squirt gun setups and a 300 amp inverter machine.Made enough on the carts I built to finally get something I've wanted for a while:View attachment 403823
Yeah I've got a few projects in mind to break it in with so hopefully I'll be able to give a good report on it. We didnt do much al work in the company I was with and no spool gun work so I'll have to get used to it.I've thought about getting one of those. I'd like your opinion on how it works. I've been thinking about selling my Precision Tig 225 . I just don't use it that much. I'm thinking one of the squirt gun setups and a 300 amp inverter machine.
They can be finicky but once you find sweet spots they are really nice to have. Had a couple of these for our Miller 252s.Yeah I've got a few projects in mind to break it in with so hopefully I'll be able to give a good report on it. We didnt do much al work in the company I was with and no spool gun work so I'll have to get used to it.

Not sure on the answer to your question 100% but you could try the file test (run a file along the back edge and if it catches its soft and needs a heat treat, if it skips along the edge without grabbing or digging in then it’s likely hard enough). You could also do some cutting with it and see how well it holds and edge (looks like you are close to having a sharp cutting edge) and if it holds up after cutting some rope and other items you might be good.OK, I'm trying my first attempt at making a knife, technically knives.
I took an old table blade and cut out two skinner-style blades. I did some grinding and a lot of sanding as well as some work on a course and a fine whetstone. I am relatively happy with the sharpness and I think I can probably improve upon it, but I am wondering if I need to heat and quench these blades before I add a handle and try to do a final sharpening.
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So I am reaching out to the Metalworking Hunttalkers for advice. Do I need heat and quench these blades? I do have a friend who is an associate professor of metallurgy and he said he could heat treat it for me, but I am kinda hoping I can skip the step simply so I can move on to adding handles and making sheathes.



That is so great, good job bringing your son into it!The journey for my 10 year old and I continues. We got some 1095 flat stock and designed and ground out three knives (he wanted a sword so we settled on a dagger). Learning a lot in the process and getting a little better each time. We also made a trident to see how the forge and anvil/ hammer work. Next up moving to making some sheaths (and I need to finish polishing/ fine tuning the finish on the knives).
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OK, I'm trying my first attempt at making a knife, technically knives.
I took an old table blade and cut out two skinner-style blades. I did some grinding and a lot of sanding as well as some work on a course and a fine whetstone. I am relatively happy with the sharpness and I think I can probably improve upon it, but I am wondering if I need to heat and quench these blades before I add a handle and try to do a final sharpening.
View attachment 404330
So I am reaching out to the Metalworking Hunttalkers for advice. Do I need heat and quench these blades? I do have a friend who is an associate professor of metallurgy and he said he could heat treat it for me, but I am kinda hoping I can skip the step simply so I can move on to adding handles and making sheathes.
It was a table saw blade. Not a table blade. Little typo there.What is a “table blade”?
It is hard to tell what type of steel it is from the pictures.
When you were grinding it did it spark a lot?
You can make steel sharp and it will cut, but if it is soft steel then the edge won’t last very long.
Your friend being a metallurgist should be able to tell you if it will heat treat.
I would assume if he is offering to heat treat it, that it probably does need to be heat treated.
You can put handles on them and they will work and be sharp, but for how long?
If these are your first, NICE JOB!
They look great and with handles will look even better.
If I were to continue, I would get some known 1084 and make some more knives and then you would know if they need to be heat treated and can fit all the steps in order into the process. AND then you will know that you have a good workable blade.
Lotta of the main body of those blades are HSS steel. Given the heavy usage in industry's its a good material. Not exotic by any means but typically long lasting and easy to sharpen while holding good edges.It was a table saw blade. Not a table blade. Little typo there.
These are my first attempts at making blades. There were plenty of sparks when I was cutting and shaping them.
My friend has them and some scraps from the table saw blade that he can test. We'll see what he thinks of the steel. I'll post an update with his findings and the finished knives once I put the handles on.