Kenetrek

[upper deck]

So with that logic is it better to go with a $200 pair of Danners vs. a $400 pair of Kenetreks if they both fit well, work well, but your almost gonna have to buy a new pair after 2-3 years anyway?

That all depends in what you are looking for in your boots the Kenetreks will provide much more support and if you keep the leather treated well should last way longer than your danners. I gave up on danners many years ago and had good luck with Meindl's until the soles fell off the last two pairs. I just got a pair of Kenetreks and I will say I am very happy with them. At first I wasn't sure about the heel but after a little break in period I now think they are one of the most comfortable boot I've worn. Sizing I wear size 11 dress shoe 11.5 running shoe and I had to go to the 11.5 in the mountain extreme.

Yes goretex will fail in a boot after many flexes. But I always wondered about the real advantage of goretex in a leather boot. Goretex is designed to be breathable and water proof, correct. I just have never really found Leather to be to breathable itself, so I would rather keep them oiled up or similiar product and not worry about the goretex knowing it will fail.

 

[Brentster7189]

I had the 400 gram, and found they were too warm, especially if you want to use them for multiple months of different types of hunting. They for sure require a break in period though, as do making sure your heals get calloused. My heals were toast after using them chukar hunting, and they took a while to heal back up again.

I will say though because of the firmness of the boot, my feet never hurt even after trudging around the chukar hills all day on rocky terrain. Good quality boots.

 

[CabinFever]

I've always wondered about the "actual" temp difference between insulated/Ni. Does anyone have any further info/comments on temp difference of 400 gr versus Ni??

I always have trouble finding hunting boots do to the fact that I'm size 13 and even narrow after awhile seem too wide. I have finally found a standard manufactured boot that works for me but they only make it in Ni. Was thinking about taking a ride to Bozeman to try Kennetrek's recently new "narrow" models in 400 gr., but if there is only 10 degrees difference I'll just wear a thicker sock and cut down my glassing time and move on until the feet warm up.

Sorry I don't get online much when I'm on the road. As far as temperature rating goes, unfortunately everyone is different. Of the guys I've talked to that have both boots I'd say the temp difference is generally 10-20 degrees, but its a very difficult thing to measure as there are so many factors. Having both, I would say I typically will wear the NI's until high's are below 20 degrees. When colder than that I switch over, and I typically get cold faster than my hunting partners. I've worn the 400's to -10 F, active, however I would never be able to sit longer than 20 minutes under 20 degrees even with the 400's. They just aren't made for that. A tree stand boot is not a mountain hunting boot and vise versa.

If you can come see us in Bozeman, that would be best, else I truly think the narrow's should work. If they still felt too loose I'd highly recommend a Sole Ultra insole, built to mold to your foot, and thick to take up excess room in your boots. Please contact me with further questions

 

[CabinFever]

I've been going with Danner Pronghorns but they don't hold water out well after a years use so I figure why keep spending 200 bucks every 2 years and go spend a bit more for something that will hopefully hold out a bit better. I do like how my Danners fit and feel though.

I looked at the dealers in MN and most only carry like the Hardscrabble or a single boot. Scheels might have the Mountain Extremes, waiting to hear on them. Otherwise I'll have to the purchase and return deal over the mail.

Does anyone know how the run in size compared to the Pronghorns to at least get me on the ball park?

Scheels should have some Mtn Extremes, but not always the best variety of sizes. Kenetreks should fit size-wise similar to the American made Danners, don't know much about the China ones. If you can have someone who knows what their doing measure you on a Brannock device. Our sizing is very similar to that.

 

[CabinFever]

Made in Italy for Kenetrek and shipped to Monatana for disturbution...I believe.

Correct. Designed, tested, distributed in MT. Made in Italy. The Italians and Germans are just heads above the rest as far as boot workmanship goes, for a handmade boot like this.

 

[CabinFever]

Yes goretex will fail in a boot after many flexes. But I always wondered about the real advantage of goretex in a leather boot. Goretex is designed to be breathable and water proof, correct. I just have never really found Leather to be to breathable itself, so I would rather keep them oiled up or similiar product and not worry about the goretex knowing it will fail.

This is correct, its all about number of flexes. Increasing the longevity of the waterproof membrane includes limited stitching. The Kenetreks have a single piece of leather all the way around and stitched in the back, limiting stitching is key.

Leather is definitely breathable. For the last 6 months at work and at shows I've been using the new Desert Guide, no waterproof liner, my feet sweat a quarter of the amount as with the liner. The difference is unreal.

If you want to know how waterproof/breathable membranes really work, let me know and I'll try to explain as best I can, its very interesting.

 

[cowboy]

If you want to know how waterproof/breathable membranes really work, let me know and I'll try to explain as best I can, its very interesting.

Fire away - I'd be very interested in knowing. Also if you have any comments on various types of boot dressings, differences, and how to properly apply - if a little is enough is too much dressing harmful?

 

[d-bone20917]

I'd also be interested in hearing more. I have been reading and watching (youtube) a lot of boot reviews lately to try and figure out what I want to get. The more information the better.

Is Windtex proprietary to Kenetrek? It looks like all other companies use Gore-tex. Is there an advantage with the Windtex?

 

[CabinFever]

Wind-Tex is not a Kenetrek product, but yes it seems most companies use Gore, I don't have an explanation of why. As far as I know, they are very similar products. The reason(to my knowledge) that Kenetrek does not use Gore-Tex is that Gore has restrictions on how you have to make a boot with their product. They actually wouldn't allow Kenetrek to use Gore-Tex in their current design. From what I remember Jim saying is that Gore would actually require more stitching on the boot, which makes no sense to me. Jim knew what he thought would be the best design for a premium boot is what we now have as the Mtn. Extreme and Hardscrabble Hiker, which has less pieces of leather than any other boot I've seen, and Gore wouldn't allow us to use their product in that boot. I do all of the warranty work, and the percentage of boots that ever come back with leaks is far lower than industry averages. Actually quite amazing.

I'm going to wait to explain how the breathability works till I get back home and have some more time. Sorry for the wait, time is tight on the road

 

[CabinFever]

Fire away - I'd be very interested in knowing. Also if you have any comments on various types of boot dressings, differences, and how to properly apply - if a little is enough is too much dressing harmful?

On any boots with a glued on rubber rand, you want to avoid any oil based products. I've seen so many issues with oil products and Obenauf's causing major delaminations. They tend to comprimise the laminate. Stick to bees wax products on anything with a glued on rand. With wax I've never seen issue with too much, so no too much is not harmful, although with oil products using too much seems to oversoften the leather, causing loss of support.