Junk Stock build

Pucky Freak

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Goal was to turn the Savage Axis factory matte black stock into a useable component, mostly just to gain experience. If I completely screwed up I could just throw it away and replace with one from Boyd’s.

Axis II with Matte black stock was $303 online (30% off MSRP from Savage for select service occupations). Including transfer and tax was $348.

Gun was missing recoil lug on arrival, so I contacted the warranty department to see if they could send me a replacement. Expecting a delayed response due to COVID-19 stay at home order.

The stock is barely above toy gun-quality. Forestock bent hard to the right and contacting barrel, and shaped in a squiggle rather than a straight line. I used a wood chisel to remove material from the left inside of the forestock to achieve free float, then evened out the gouges with 60-grit sandpaper. Tested new gap with 3 sheets of thick paper to slide down the barrel with no contact. This pic is during sanding.
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I also used a drill with a small bit to roughen all the inside surfaces of the forestock. Dozens of tiny divots along the bottom, and holes in the honeycomb dividers. Picked out debris with pinpoint tweezers the washed out thoroughly with acetone.
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I removed the recoil pad and tightly stuffed torn up pieces of Walmart grocery sacks into the recoil pad extender and the butt stock. This added about 1 oz., removed hollow sound, and made the buttstock much more rigid. I drilled a hole in the grip cap and stuffed it full of bags too.
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Cleaned above area with acetone, placed stock in vice, leveled the grip cap to the horizontal plane and filled the small remaining cavity with epoxy to have a flat surface where I had drilled the hole. The epoxy does not adhere to the bags, but it does to the sides of the hole I drilled. After it dried I sanded it smooth.

Next was to fill the forestock with plastic epoxy. I used 3 bottles at 0.85 oz. each for $22 total. I had previously filled the cavities with water using a syringe to calculate the volume of epoxy needed, but I was too conservative and should’ve bought 4 bottles. I squirted all 3 bottles into a plastic cup, stirred together, then used a children’s ibuprofen syringe to draw up epoxy and squirt into the cavities. Epoxy is caulk-like consistency and not pourable. My method would have worked better with a larger volume syringe, with a wider, longer nozzle, as I could not easily get epoxy to the bottom of the cavities, and the nozzle clogged after 10 minutes of use. The last 10 mins were spent spooning in the remaining epoxy, then using my stir stick and a toothpick to jam it in the cavities. This resulted in a lot of air pockets.
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Despite the air pockets it bonded very tightly to the stock, making it about twice as stiff as the original and added a couple ounces of weight. If I had used a better syringe and an extra bottle of epoxy I’d be up to 3+ ounces, fewer air pockets, and stiffness rivaling wood (insert COVID-19 donation gag reference here). There are many other epoxies available, but I wanted the tightest bond I could get, and something that won’t crack during when the gun is fired.

Next up was finish. Cleaned exterior of stock with acetone 20 times. Taped off surfaces with blue painter’s tape, suspended from ceiling by a string and added 3 coats of adhesion promoter $10. Did the first 3 coats of paint ($6), let dry 24 hours then 3 more coats. Yes, I’m fully aware I lack graffiti skills as the coat is uneven. It adhered extremely well to the stock, and provides bumpy surface like 40-grit sandpaper, except it’s not sharp.
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Obviously still need to add recoil lug. Will put some blue threadlocker on the pillar screws. Next I will get a scope, some rings, a couple boxes of 143 ELD-X, and see if this man-bun is a shooter. Will update when that’s done.
 
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Yes, I’m fully aware I lack graffiti skills as the coat is uneven.

Add a little black krylon marbleizing spray and slight variations will look like clever camo.

And to toughen it up, give it 2 weeks to fully cure, and then apply 2 coats of Brownell AlumaHyde II epoxy-based clear matte sealing coat and finish with light brushing with 0000 steel wool.
 
I did my Stevens 200 forestock with light weight Bondo. Still some flex , and still added more weight than i wanted.

My Savage 111 was a different approach.
I cut 2 channels lengthwise down the forestock through the webbing. Then cut a carbon fibre arrow shaft in half lengthwise and epoxied in.
Barely any weight added, and while stiffer, not nearly stiff enough for my liking.
Thinking of changing it out for a Boyds Prairrie Hunter.
 
Wow! Lot of work but could be very rewarding in the end. For future reference (You probably already know this) Brownell's sells a gun with changeable mixing tubes and two part bedding cartridges. They work pretty well, but may be somewhat expensive for this type of project. I bought one and I have used it on smaller projects...
 
Yeah, if your doing the epoxy thing on something like this, it's definitely worth it to get the mixing nozzles that attach to the epoxy tubes.
Self mixes as you squeeze the epoxy out.
Your gonna lose some volume as you can't get the last of the epoxy out of the nozzle, but....
 
After the fact now, but I've seen where guys have epoxied in a few carbon arrow shafts in the fore stock of the old boat paddle rugers. Maybe another good option for someone?
 
I have a few Stevens 200 stocks that I keep meaning to try and improve. This gives me some ideas! Thanks! I’m surprised at the plastic bags idea, seems like that would be good filler for these hollow echoing stocks.
 
Not to get off subject, but how did Savage ship a rifle without the recoil lug??? The stock looks great, post pics if you decide to try a camo paint job.
 
Not to get off subject, but how did Savage ship a rifle without the recoil lug??? The stock looks great, post pics if you decide to try a camo paint job.
No idea. I didn’t even notice it was missing until I read the manual. Warranty team emailed me from home and said they put in a order to ship a lug out to me, no questions asked.
 
I tried the plastic bag trick on a Stevens 200 stock that I unfortunately have still attached to the rifle. The grip cap unscrewed to open up a cavity separated by a thin wall down the center. Crammed a whole bag in each side of that cavity. I then filled the buttstock with whole bags, again packing them as tight as I could with a screwdriver. The buttstock took 24 whole bags and I have no doubt I could have packed them in tighter too. I will say it feels like a hillbilly way of doing anything but it did take the hollow sound/feel out of the stock. I still want to reinforce the front of the stock at some point and I might add some weight to the butt if it needs a little for balance. Good thread! Thanks for the encouragement to do something about this stock.
 
Added a tacky cheek riser, Savage 0 MOA base, Leupold VX-2 scope ($185 ebay), PRW2 medium Leupold rings, and gun bearer ($6 Kifaru upper and DIY lower).
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Range day to break in the barrel. Gun performed excellent, user fair. 2014 was the last time I shot a scoped high power rifle, so with some more practice I should be able to tighten ups the groups.
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50 yards, break in shots #3-15. Bottom right is prone with hot barrel.
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Break in shots #16-25, hot barrel. I made one errant shot in each group.
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Break in shots #26-30, cold barrel. Approx 1.3” group. Ready to do some shooting at 200 yards and then fill some antelope tags this fall.
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I also had the range to myself, and it didn’t take long to find out why. I got stung by 9 bees - there were about a half dozen of them crawling on me the entire time I was there. Seemed like they were eating my sunscreen or the salt from my sweat. Hurt like hell but I’m not allergic, so after about 10 mins the stings are gone.
 
The white targets were 100 yards. I had backup plans for alternative factory ammo if the 143 eld-x weren’t spot on, but now this might be the only load that this gun sees. I have about 1” of crosshair movement at 100 yards shooting across my bag, and the group is barely larger than that. A bipod could probably bring it in sub MOA, although I’d more concerned about field conditions/performance. The stock mods paid off, but I also got lucky rolling the dice on a cheapo rifle action.
 
Bipods are the way to go! It’s usually breezy or windy here and often times have to shoot over tall grass or sagebrush.
 
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