Handloading lead free

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

All,

I think I am going to make the switch to lead free bullets after doing some research on how much our lead bullets break apart while traveling through a deer.


With that being said, what are some important things to know before reloading them? List of things I can think of:

• Obviously follow the grain requirements for powder on the specific bullet
• Is there a rule of thumb for picking the weight? I am planning on keeping with my standard 165g for my 0.308 (all around bullet I use from 'Lopes to elk)
• Any particular brand better than the others? I am leaning toward Barnes after looking around a little bit on the web
• Is overpressure easier to encounter with lead free bullets?
• Has anyone noticed a larger difference in accuracy of lead free? Currently I'm shooting about 0.35" center to center at 100yd
• When seating the bullet, many have those large groves on the side of them, does it matter where you seat the bullet with respect to the groves?

Sorry to pepper a lot of questions, it just seems like its a slightly different beast from the lead I'm used to slinging.


Thanks in advance

 

[SD_Prairie_Goat]

Sorry moving this thread to the handloading section... find it there

 

[Tjay]

All,

I think I am going to make the switch to lead free bullets after doing some research on how much our lead bullets break apart while traveling through a deer.


With that being said, what are some important things to know before reloading them? List of things I can think of:

• Obviously follow the grain requirements for powder on the specific bullet
• Is there a rule of thumb for picking the weight? I am planning on keeping with my standard 165g for my 0.308 (all around bullet I use from 'Lopes to elk)
• Any particular brand better than the others? I am leaning toward Barnes after looking around a little bit on the web
• Is overpressure easier to encounter with lead free bullets?
• Has anyone noticed a larger difference in accuracy of lead free? Currently I'm shooting about 0.35" center to center at 100yd
• When seating the bullet, many have those large groves on the side of them, does it matter where you seat the bullet with respect to the groves?

Sorry to pepper a lot of questions, it just seems like its a slightly different beast from the lead I'm used to slinging.


Thanks in advance

1. As to the powder always start low and work up. Some lead free generate pressure quicker.
2. Most recommend a drop in bullet weight as speed is good for mono's.
3. All the mono's have proven to work equally well for me.
4. Same as answer to #1
5. All the rifles I have loaded mono's for have shot equally well, some took more work to get there than others.
6. No, but mono's like a good jump so generally need to be seated deeper than c&p bullets.

I have used GMX, TSX , TTSX and E-tips and have taken game with all of them.

 

[EastTNHunter]

I’d try a 150gr TTSX to start with as an all around load. Work with seating depths to tune.

 

[MT_Chad]

Go down in weight, the 150 mentioned above would probably be best. Barnes recommends a jump of 0.050 if I remember right. I have only shot barnes, they shoot great so no reason to change.

 

[elkhnter]

I have never been able to get Barnes bullets to shoot out of any of my 30 caliber rifles. Keep getting frustrated and going back to the Sciroccos and Partitions. May try again in summer.

 

[mtmuley]

I have never been able to get Barnes bullets to shoot out of any of my 30 caliber rifles. Keep getting frustrated and going back to the Sciroccos and Partitions. May try again in summer.

Try some Hammers. Load to mag length and go. They aren't as sensitive to seating depths as other monos. mtmuley